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About Backlash

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  1. Lets try this again shall we... I cannot help with the flashing of the HobbyKing ESC.. (I have done it on my Tekin ESC's via a PC and it is quite easy to do on those) A good driver with an older RC car will often still beat the worst driver with the newest car... Take note of how many big name drivers around the world are running older vintage off-road buggies like the RC10 and are doing well against the newer buggies these days... The concern that I would have if racing an older TC is spare parts availability... The chances are that you are going to crash and break something at some point, or have things wear out from the power of the motor, and you may not easily be able to get replacement spare parts for your car...... As for the components being Approved or Legal.... Again, this will probably be up to the club that you are racing at... Some clubs may require that the Motor and batteries be approved, others may not care.. A safe bet would be to buy items that are ROAR approved... At my local club here in Australia, running approved motors and batteries was not a big concern at club meetings (LiPo batteries had to be hard cased), but at major meetings the Motors, ESC's and Batteries had to be approved.. I have no idea what your club in Croatia requires.. YOU will have to ask them yourself... Understand? As for my comment on your driving ability and the 4.5T motor... Just because you are running in the modified class, doesn't mean that you have to choose the lowest turn motor that is available... The reality is you could use any motor from a 25.5T down to a 4.5T, but depending on the size of the track and the traction available, you may do faster lap times with a slower motor.. Like I said, racing around a track with several other cars is a lot more difficult than driving around in a big carpark on your own... I remember one night at racing, all of the guys racing in the Stock class decided to put a modified motor in for one heat / race.. I was doing much faster lap times with the 27 turn rebuildable stock motor that I removed than the 12 x 4 modified motor that I had fitted for that race.. (I put the 27T rebuildable stock motor back in for the remaining races)... Good luck...
  2. Ummmm... You say that you never raced before, but yet you have chosen to race in the modified class with a 4.5T motor.....? No disrespect, but how well can you drive? (Driving around a race track with several other cars is a whole lot different to bashing around your local car park..) Personally I would have suggested a slower motor so that you can get used to driving your car around a track, and then upgrade the motor, (and racing class) as your driving skills improve.. You are probably best to talk to your local racing club / track about what classes (motors) they run, and also if they consider your equipment to be legal for racing..
  3. I have used a micro servo mounted under the 5th wheel plate to actuate the 5th wheel on a few of my trucks... I attached the servo arm to the 5th wheel with some braided fishing line, but I guess that regular fishing line or thin string will do..
  4. I have 3 of the Turnigy 9X radios.. The Turnigy 9x has 7 switches and 3 rotary pots.. Of those 7 switches, 6 are 2 position, and one is 3 position.. One of the 2 position switches is momentary (trainer function ?) and the other 5 simple on and off.. Not all of the switches can be assigned to directly operate a channel on the receiver, some appear to only operate through the mixing function on the radio... You can assign 2 of the two position switches to directly operate channels 5 - 8 on the receiver.. Likewise you can assign all 3 of the rotary pots to directly operate channels 5 - 8 on the receiver.. You can also swap out the rotary pots for a 3 way switch if you want/need to (soldering is required to do this).. You may be able to get the other switches to operate the channels through mixing, but I have not tried as I have not had the need... The Turnigy 9X only comes with an 8 Channel receiver... I believe that a 10 Channel receiver is available for the newest system, but I don't know if it gives you the extra 9th channel..
  5. I raced an M03 and an M05 with a 13T EZ Run combo (and LiPo) for a number of years and found that they went quite well (about the same performance as a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor).. I did try my M03 with a 9T EZ Run, and found it to be quite a bit quicker, but still controllable.. I also raced a M02 (SWB 210mm) with a Sports tuned and an M chassis Acto motor on carpet, and found it to be quite fun to drive.. The bottom line is that your tyres are probably be your biggest limiting factor between having a quick fun car, or a nightmare that wants to slide or traction roll at every turn..
  6. My Tamiya tank has a Tamiya DMD control unit that handles both the steering and throttle from a standard 2channel radio.. (Its like 2 x ESC's in a box) I suppose that you could do something similar with 2 individual ESC's and some programming on a computer radio..
  7. What charger do you have? Does it have a temperature probe that connects to the battery?
  8. I would just buy a Flysky FS-i6... They are an inexpensive 6 channel radio that can be programmed to work with the MFC-01 or 03...
  9. PVC conduit or plumbing pipe glue can be blue in colour..
  10. The roll bar looks to be off an SRB... (Scorcher, Rough Rider, Ranger)
  11. This may help... http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/2gs-manual.pdf
  12. The Attack 2 (FP-T2CR) was released around 1995 going by the copyright date in the manual.. The FP-T2GS does not have a date in the manual, but the receiver does have a BEC, and it came with S128 servos, so I'm guessing it was released in the mid 80s.. The Nikko radio I'm not sure of the release date, or if it was released with a hobby grade car or toy grade...
  13. You could try an M3 Helicoil maybe? If not, it may just be easier to look for another motor can....
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