Backlash

J Concepts BJ4...?

Lets try this again shall we... I cannot help with the flashing of the HobbyKing ESC.. (I have done it on my Tekin ESC's via a PC and it is quite easy to do on those) A good driver with an older RC car will often still beat the worst driver with the newest car... Take note of how many big name drivers around the world are running older vintage off-road buggies like the RC10 and are doing well against the newer buggies these days... The concern that I would have if racing an older TC is spare parts availability... The chances are that you are going to crash and break something at some point, or have things wear out from the power of the motor, and you may not easily be able to get replacement spare parts for your car...... As for the components being Approved or Legal.... Again, this will probably be up to the club that you are racing at... Some clubs may require that the Motor and batteries be approved, others may not care.. A safe bet would be to buy items that are ROAR approved... At my local club here in Australia, running approved motors and batteries was not a big concern at club meetings (LiPo batteries had to be hard cased), but at major meetings the Motors, ESC's and Batteries had to be approved.. I have no idea what your club in Croatia requires.. YOU will have to ask them yourself... Understand? As for my comment on your driving ability and the 4.5T motor... Just because you are running in the modified class, doesn't mean that you have to choose the lowest turn motor that is available... The reality is you could use any motor from a 25.5T down to a 4.5T, but depending on the size of the track and the traction available, you may do faster lap times with a slower motor.. Like I said, racing around a track with several other cars is a lot more difficult than driving around in a big carpark on your own... I remember one night at racing, all of the guys racing in the Stock class decided to put a modified motor in for one heat / race.. I was doing much faster lap times with the 27 turn rebuildable stock motor that I removed than the 12 x 4 modified motor that I had fitted for that race.. (I put the 27T rebuildable stock motor back in for the remaining races)... Good luck...

Ummmm... You say that you never raced before, but yet you have chosen to race in the modified class with a 4.5T motor.....? No disrespect, but how well can you drive? (Driving around a race track with several other cars is a whole lot different to bashing around your local car park..) Personally I would have suggested a slower motor so that you can get used to driving your car around a track, and then upgrade the motor, (and racing class) as your driving skills improve.. You are probably best to talk to your local racing club / track about what classes (motors) they run, and also if they consider your equipment to be legal for racing..

I have used a micro servo mounted under the 5th wheel plate to actuate the 5th wheel on a few of my trucks... I attached the servo arm to the 5th wheel with some braided fishing line, but I guess that regular fishing line or thin string will do..

I have 3 of the Turnigy 9X radios.. The Turnigy 9x has 7 switches and 3 rotary pots.. Of those 7 switches, 6 are 2 position, and one is 3 position.. One of the 2 position switches is momentary (trainer function ?) and the other 5 simple on and off.. Not all of the switches can be assigned to directly operate a channel on the receiver, some appear to only operate through the mixing function on the radio... You can assign 2 of the two position switches to directly operate channels 5 - 8 on the receiver.. Likewise you can assign all 3 of the rotary pots to directly operate channels 5 - 8 on the receiver.. You can also swap out the rotary pots for a 3 way switch if you want/need to (soldering is required to do this).. You may be able to get the other switches to operate the channels through mixing, but I have not tried as I have not had the need... The Turnigy 9X only comes with an 8 Channel receiver... I believe that a 10 Channel receiver is available for the newest system, but I don't know if it gives you the extra 9th channel..

I raced an M03 and an M05 with a 13T EZ Run combo (and LiPo) for a number of years and found that they went quite well (about the same performance as a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor).. I did try my M03 with a 9T EZ Run, and found it to be quite a bit quicker, but still controllable.. I also raced a M02 (SWB 210mm) with a Sports tuned and an M chassis Acto motor on carpet, and found it to be quite fun to drive.. The bottom line is that your tyres are probably be your biggest limiting factor between having a quick fun car, or a nightmare that wants to slide or traction roll at every turn..

My Tamiya tank has a Tamiya DMD control unit that handles both the steering and throttle from a standard 2channel radio.. (Its like 2 x ESC's in a box) I suppose that you could do something similar with 2 individual ESC's and some programming on a computer radio..

What charger do you have? Does it have a temperature probe that connects to the battery?

I would just buy a Flysky FS-i6... They are an inexpensive 6 channel radio that can be programmed to work with the MFC-01 or 03...

PVC conduit or plumbing pipe glue can be blue in colour..

The roll bar looks to be off an SRB... (Scorcher, Rough Rider, Ranger)

This may help... http://manuals.hobbico.com/fut/2gs-manual.pdf

The Attack 2 (FP-T2CR) was released around 1995 going by the copyright date in the manual.. The FP-T2GS does not have a date in the manual, but the receiver does have a BEC, and it came with S128 servos, so I'm guessing it was released in the mid 80s.. The Nikko radio I'm not sure of the release date, or if it was released with a hobby grade car or toy grade...

Have you tried another sensor lead?

You could try an M3 Helicoil maybe? If not, it may just be easier to look for another motor can....

IIRC, at one point Proline / Protoform were stating that some of their bodies for the bigger "basher" type trucks like the T-Max and Savage were being made from 60 thou Lexan... I could be wrong, but I think that regular touring car bodies are/were made from 40 thou Lexan... ?? Protoform now offers their touring car bodies in 3 different weights (thickness) Lexan.. https://www.racepf.com/touring-car-190mm/ltc-r-clear-body.asp So to answer your question, it is not uncommon for manufacturers to use Lexan with different thicknesses to make their bodies... I guess it depends on the body or parts being made, and for smaller manufacturers, what thickness Lexan they have on hand........

I have gold TRF shocks / dampers on my Wild Willy 2.. They are probably overkill for the Willy, but they were on it when I bought it and they do look and perform really nice..

None of the NiCd/NiMh batteries that I have bought over the years have been supplied fully charged... At best they would have a small "storage charge" to keep the cells alive while they were sitting in the shop waiting to be sold, but they would always need to be charged before use... The only exception to that is the AA size NiMh cells that I use in my radio's that sometimes marked as " Ready to Use" (i.e. pre-charged) but even then I still top them off on the charger before use, especially if I'm going to be running my cars for a while, as you never really know exactly how much of the original charge the cells still hold.. The issue with NiMh cells is that they will self discharge over time (i.e. they will go flat even when not being used), and that is why you need to store them partially charged or with a "Storage Charge"..

The Tamiya TEU-104bk ESC does NOT have a built in BEC, so it will supply full battery voltage (7.2V+) to the receiver and servos.. It needs to be used with a receiver that has a built in BEC, or an external BEC to drop the main battery voltage from 7.2V down to 4.8 - 6 volts for the receiver and servos.. https://www.tamiyausa.com/items/radio-control-parts-70/radio-control-electronics-28000/rc-esc-teu-104bk-brushed-45041

I have been wondering if a Rock Tumbler would do a reasonable job of cleaning up and restoring the "as new" look to the pot metal parts without polishing them .. It seems that you can use them with various media and cleaning solutions to get the desired results..

If you have already bought that ESC, then give it a try.. One would hope that it could handle a silver can 540 motor, and a 7.2V NiMh battery in a light chassis like a Hornet just fine.. If not, I would buy a HobbyWing Quicrun 1060 ESC instead..

Is there a reason why you are still running a receiver pack, and not running the receiver from a BEC via the main 7.2/7.4 Volt battery? Seeing as you are running a receiver pack, I'm guessing that you are still running an MSC, so the other option would be to update to an ESC, as that upgrade would eliminate the need for the Receiver pack, MSC and the MSC servo in the car, and also make it a more reliable runner.. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hku5-5v-5a-ubec.html

If both the 4200mAh LiPo batteries were fully charged, then it seems strange that the alarms started coming on less than a minute into the run... I seriously doubt that the batteries were flat after such a short time, so you could always remove the alarms and give it a short run (in an open area) without them to see if they were if fact the problem... Did you try and check what the preset voltage is/was for the alarms... Some are preset to a fixed value (eg. 3.3V/cell) but some other alarms (eg, some of the ones with a digital voltmeter) you can adjust the voltage that the alarm sounds, so perhaps the alarms cutoff voltage is just set too high?? Keep in mind that if you are running the motors in parallel, then it is effectively the same as running a single motor that is half the turns of the motors that are connected in parallel.. (eg, with two 12 turn motors connected in parallel, the current drawn would be similar to running a single 6 turn motor as far as the battery and ESC are concerned..)

Its not a bad idea to have an old NiCd battery for testing.. NiCd's don't seem to be as bothered if you run them completely flat (although they can still suffer from cell reversal) so its probably better to have the older 1300 mAh NiCd pack in the truck for shelf duties anyway... ( I would NOT leave a LiPo battery sitting in the truck..) The low voltage LiPo alarms that I have are just that, an audible alarm with LED indication lights that sound and light up when the LiPo's voltage gets to about 3.3 Volts per cell.. I'm not sure how one would or could cause your Clod to go crazy, unless the ones that you have put out some type of weird RF signal when they activate?? LiPo batteries do hold a higher voltage throughout the discharge cycle, and then the voltage drops suddenly at the end of the cycle.. I'm wondering if the reason why your Clod goes out of control is because the alarms are causing some type of interference, or if its more because the battery voltage has suddenly dropped below what the ESC and receiver need to operate, and that is causing the receiver to lose contact with the transmitter.. You can see in the diagram below how the curves for the LiPo batteries are quite linear (flat) until they get to around 6.8V (3.4V/cell), and then the voltage drops suddenly.. You can also see the voltage of the NiMh battery (blue) Drops away quite early on in the discharge cycle..

A skip bin is a large metal container (or bin) that is often used to collect heavy waste (eg building site rubble) and it can be lifted up onto the back of a truck... I have also heard people refer to what known as a "Dumpster" in the USA as a skip bin as well.. A lane way is basically an Ally way.. (A narrow road that allows limited access to the rear of some building etc..) A skip bin..