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Backlash

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Posts posted by Backlash


  1. 6 hours ago, Fabia130vRS said:

    I haven't chosen to race in modified class, I wish I had where, we dont have a track locally here, it is more mental. I am a club member, and our closest track is about 600km from where I live, they drive a open class, and there is pretty much anything allowed.

    No disrespect to you too, but that post of yours wasnt very helpful.

    I do own a F103, TA05IFS, the F103 has a 13,5T brushless in it, in the TA05 I have a 10T brushless sistem... so no need for slower motors in the Xray.

    also to mention the Xray is very well setup and drives sharp like a knife compared to my TA05.

    So my questions were, has anybody yet flashed a HK esc with a HW firmware? how complicated is it, the only firmware I have flashed was the SonyEricsson K750 to W800 :)

    and how would such a old touring car compare in your club with these components? any recommendations are welcome. does everything needto be approved or only esc, battery, motor?

    So if you think now, but why bother if you cant race it... we have a nice little playground with green asphalt, we organise track days from time to time, max number of 5 cars were there, I can say that I am a good responsible driver, would not be scared to attempt racing in modified class in my country.

     

    Lets try this again shall we...

    I cannot help with the flashing of the HobbyKing ESC.. (I have done it on my Tekin ESC's via a PC and it is quite easy to do on those)

    A good driver with an older RC car will often still beat the worst driver with the newest car... Take note of how many big name drivers around the world are running older vintage off-road buggies like the RC10 and are doing well against the newer buggies these days...

    The concern that I would have if racing an older TC is spare parts availability... The chances are that you are going to crash and break something at some point, or have things wear out from the power of the motor, and you may not easily be able to get replacement spare parts for your car......

    As for the components being Approved or Legal.... Again, this will probably be up to the club that you are racing at... Some clubs may require that the Motor and batteries be approved, others may not care.. A safe bet would be to buy items that are ROAR approved... At my local club here in Australia, running approved motors and batteries was not a big concern at club meetings (LiPo batteries had to be hard cased), but at major meetings the Motors, ESC's and Batteries had to be approved.. I have no idea what your club in Croatia requires.. YOU will have to ask them yourself... Understand?

    As for my comment on your driving ability and the 4.5T motor... Just because you are running in the modified class, doesn't mean that you have to choose the lowest turn motor that is available... The reality is you could use any motor from a 25.5T down to a 4.5T, but depending on the size of the track and the traction available, you may do faster lap times with a slower motor.. Like I said, racing around a track with several other cars is a lot more difficult than driving around in a big carpark on your own... I remember one night at racing, all of the guys racing in the Stock class decided to put a modified motor in for one heat / race.. I was doing much faster lap times with the 27 turn rebuildable stock motor that I removed than the 12 x 4 modified motor that I had fitted for that race.. (I put the 27T rebuildable stock motor back in for the remaining races)...

    Good luck...

     


  2. Ummmm... You say that you never raced before, but yet you have chosen to race in the modified class with a 4.5T motor.....?

    No disrespect, but how well can you drive?  (Driving around a race track with several other cars is a whole lot different to bashing around your local car park..)

    Personally I would have suggested a slower motor so that you can get used to driving your car around a track, and then upgrade the motor, (and racing class) as your driving skills improve..

    You are probably best to talk to your local racing club / track about what classes (motors) they run, and also if they consider your equipment to be legal for racing..

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  3. I have used a micro servo mounted under the 5th wheel plate to actuate the 5th wheel on a few of my trucks... I attached the servo arm to the 5th wheel with some braided fishing line, but I guess that regular fishing line or thin string will do..

    coupler servo.jpg


  4. I have 3 of the Turnigy 9X radios..

    The Turnigy 9x has 7 switches and 3 rotary pots..

    Of those 7 switches, 6 are 2 position, and one is 3 position.. One of the 2 position switches is momentary (trainer function ?) and the other 5 simple on and off..

    Not all of the switches can be assigned to directly operate a channel on the receiver, some appear to only operate through the mixing function on the radio...

    You can assign 2 of the two position switches to directly operate channels 5 - 8 on the receiver.. Likewise you can assign all 3 of the rotary pots to directly operate channels 5 - 8 on the receiver.. You can also swap out the rotary pots for a 3 way switch if you want/need to (soldering is required to do this)..

    You may be able to get the other switches to operate the channels through mixing, but I have not tried as I have not had the need...

    The Turnigy 9X only comes with an 8 Channel receiver... I believe that a 10 Channel receiver is available for the newest system, but I don't know if it gives you the extra 9th channel..

    • Like 1

  5. I raced an M03 and an M05 with a 13T EZ Run combo (and LiPo) for a number of years and found that they went quite well (about the same performance as a Tamiya Sport Tuned motor).. I did try my M03 with a 9T EZ Run, and found it to be quite a bit quicker, but still controllable..

    I also raced a M02 (SWB 210mm) with a Sports tuned and an M chassis Acto motor on carpet, and found it to be quite fun to drive..

    The bottom line is that your tyres are probably be your biggest limiting factor between having a quick fun car, or a nightmare that wants to slide or traction roll at every turn..


  6. The Attack 2 (FP-T2CR) was released around 1995 going by the copyright date in the manual..

    The FP-T2GS does not have a date in the manual, but the receiver does have a BEC, and it came with S128 servos, so I'm guessing it was released in the mid 80s..

    The Nikko radio I'm not sure of the release date, or if it was released with a hobby grade car or toy grade...  

     


  7. IIRC, at one point Proline / Protoform were stating that some of their bodies for the bigger "basher" type trucks like the T-Max and Savage were being made from 60 thou Lexan...

    I could be wrong, but I think that regular touring car bodies are/were made from 40 thou Lexan... ??

    Protoform now offers their touring car bodies in 3 different weights (thickness) Lexan.. https://www.racepf.com/touring-car-190mm/ltc-r-clear-body.asp

    So to answer your question, it is not uncommon for manufacturers to use Lexan with different thicknesses to make their bodies... I guess it depends on the body or parts being made, and for smaller manufacturers, what thickness Lexan they have on hand........

    • Like 1

  8. None of the NiCd/NiMh batteries that I have bought over the years have been supplied fully charged... At best they would have a small "storage charge" to keep the cells alive while they were sitting in the shop waiting to be sold, but they would always need to be charged before use...

    The only exception to that is the AA size NiMh cells that I use in my radio's that sometimes marked as " Ready to Use" (i.e. pre-charged) but even then I still top them off on the charger before use, especially if I'm going to be running my cars for a while, as you never really know exactly how much of the original charge the cells still hold..

    The issue with NiMh cells is that they will self discharge over time (i.e. they will go flat even when not being used), and that is why you need to store them partially charged or with a "Storage Charge".. 

     
     


  9. If you have already bought that ESC, then give it a try.. One would hope that it could handle a silver can 540 motor, and a 7.2V NiMh battery in a light chassis like a Hornet just fine..

    If not, I would buy a HobbyWing Quicrun 1060 ESC instead..
     


  10. Is there a reason why you are still running a receiver pack, and not running the receiver from a BEC via the main 7.2/7.4 Volt battery?

    Seeing as you are running a receiver pack, I'm guessing that you are still running an MSC, so the other option would be to update to an ESC, as that upgrade would eliminate the need for the Receiver pack, MSC and the MSC servo in the car, and also make it a more reliable runner..

    https://hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbykingtm-hku5-5v-5a-ubec.html


  11. On ‎6‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 2:05 AM, Mad Ax said:

    well, that's exactly what I thought - in theory the alarms are just loud buzzers.  But it seemed to be that when the alarm activated the clod would go out of control, temporarily hitting full throttle so that it flipped over.  I run a short wheelbase on a custom chassis so it flips over very easy.  Once upside down, the motors and servos started glitching like crazy while both alarms were intermittently sounding and not sounding.  With 4S power and wheels wider than the body, it started dancing all around the street almost faster than I could catch it :lol:

    In fact the alarms were coming on way earlier than anticipated - less than a minute into a run.  I had only just finished the chassis and was testing it with some older 4.2Ah stick packs, not the 5Ah squares that I had planned to run it on longer-term.  It's possible the ESC was drawing more current than the batteries could provide, causing the voltage to drop off enough to trigger the alarm - I'm not really sure what happens to a LiPo if you draw more burst current than it can supply (and in all honesty I didn't think the Traxxas Titan 550s were that hungry).  So then it's possible that the voltage drop-off would cause the radio to glitch, causing more full-throttle, causing more drop-off, causing more glitch.  So the alarms might have been a symptom rather than a cause.

    All I can say for sure is that I didn't want to risk my Clod or the cars parked along that road any more, so I went right inside and ordered a new EVX-2 with LiPo cutoff ;)

     

    If both the 4200mAh LiPo batteries were fully charged, then it seems strange that the alarms started coming on less than a minute into the run... I seriously doubt that the batteries were flat after such a short time, so you could always remove the alarms and give it a short run (in an open area) without them to see if they were if fact the problem...

    Did you try and check what the preset voltage is/was for the alarms... Some are preset to a fixed value (eg. 3.3V/cell) but some other alarms (eg, some of the ones with a digital voltmeter) you can adjust the voltage that the alarm sounds, so perhaps the alarms cutoff voltage is just set too high??

    Keep in mind that if you are running the motors in parallel, then it is effectively the same as running a single motor that is half the turns of the motors that are connected in parallel.. (eg, with two 12 turn motors connected in parallel, the current drawn would be similar to running a single 6 turn motor as far as the battery and ESC are concerned..)


  12. 6 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

    Thanks for the advice - I was thinking I'd prefer NiMH for the trucks but maybe now is the time to go LiPo.  I'll probably buy some new LiPos purely for use on the rigs, as they'll get very different usage to those in my other stuff.  Maybe I'll keep my classic Tamiya NiCd 1300mAh that came with my Full Option TGX for shelf duty, as it seems to be a really solid and reliable battery and is quite happy being plugged in on part-charge for ages.

    I do have some LiPo alarms but I'll have to test them carefully in a controlled environment, preferably a padded room.  I had issues when running a pair of alarms on a pair of 2S stick packs in a Traxxas EVX2-powered Clod Buster - every time the alarms fired the Clod would go out of control.  I don't want my rig shooting off across the layout and doing massive damage to someone else's airbrushed pride and joy :o 

    Its not a bad idea to have an old NiCd battery for testing..  NiCd's don't seem to be as bothered if you run them completely flat (although they can still suffer from cell reversal) so its probably better to have the older 1300 mAh NiCd pack in the truck for shelf duties anyway... ( I would NOT leave a LiPo battery sitting in the truck..)

    The low voltage LiPo alarms that I have are just that, an audible alarm with LED indication lights that sound and light up when the LiPo's voltage gets to about 3.3 Volts per cell.. I'm not sure how one would or could cause your Clod to go crazy, unless the ones that you have put out some type of weird RF signal when they activate??

    LiPo batteries do hold a higher voltage throughout the discharge cycle, and then the voltage drops suddenly at the end of the cycle.. I'm wondering if the reason why your Clod goes out of control is because the alarms are causing some type of interference, or if its more because the battery voltage has suddenly dropped below what the ESC and receiver need to operate, and that is causing the receiver to lose contact with the transmitter..

    You can see in the diagram below how the curves for the LiPo batteries are quite linear (flat) until they get to around 6.8V (3.4V/cell), and then the voltage drops suddenly.. You can also see the voltage of the NiMh battery (blue) Drops away quite early on in the discharge cycle..

     

    Ec89992.jpg

    • Like 1

  13. 11 hours ago, Juggular said:

     

    P.S. "Hiding behind 'skip bins' in a 'laneway'" failed to produce any corresponding mental image... Lanes of recycling bins? or Trash cans (Rubbish bins) lined up?  I did search for "laneway," but some music festival popped up.  I don't think there is any point to holding the breath and hiding in a crowd of excited people when zombies attack.  

     

    A skip bin is a large metal container (or bin) that is often used to collect heavy waste (eg building site rubble) and it can be lifted up onto the back of a truck... I have also heard people refer to what known as a "Dumpster" in the USA as a skip bin as well..

    A lane way is basically an Ally way.. (A narrow road that allows limited access to the rear of some building etc..)

    A skip bin..

    7bin.gif

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