naturbo2000

It's a shame you can't get the xrings to work @Kol__, but I agree with you. I don't think they're enough smootherto be worth it over the default red orings. I frankly can't tell the difference at all, but many others swear by them. Seeing your rear tower support reminds me I need to do an update to the Super Madtute thread. I got the xtra speed support mostly because I was putting in an order for a load of items from RCMart. I run on the middle mounting holes on the tower, even for Top Force HiCaps. I'll have to update my thread with what springs I'm running. I think it's the softest of the big bore rears.

Good to hear @Kol__. One of mine is still "weepy", but not the leak it had when I first received it. Maybe it needs one extra 0.1mm shim. All told, I can't really tell the benefit of x-rings over regular red o-rings, but I'm definitely at the low end of performance racing. The seals in my shocks are the least of my issues 😆. I have Hicaps on my Avante and Super Madtute. All pretty good, but i agree with generally not over tightening the bottom of the shock. Of the ones that have ever leaked, I think it's actually and unexpectedly out of the top. The bladders don't sit properly and can get chewed up by overtightening the caps. Top Force shocks also have an issue where the shock piston can clash with and deform the bladder. In general for modern Hicaps, I get a more reliable build by "knowing" how much oil is needed and building with the bladder pre-installed in the cap. I can do so with a small amount of leak through the threads as I build it, but no leak thereafter.

Don't underestimate how bad my driving can be! I find indoors has closer proximity to immovable objects.

Definitely run them, especially the Avante. Even though they're terrible race buggies. Even though the parts are expensive and hard work to replace. Left side of mine takes all the abuse from indoor racing. Two front arms, one upper chassis deck, one front carbon shock tower, both halves of the front gearbox, 6 rose joints so far. Oh and the wing obviously looks a mess. Don't ask about the Top Force Evo. I've lost count.

Yes. That's what I mean. I don't recall whether my second hand big bores had been built to the instructions, but i do recall that the lower cap simply did up "too easily" if that's a thing, which is not how i remember my new ones being. Didn't know if it was indicative of the x-rings wearing, but a shim in the leaky ones seems to have worked.

I bought a TRF201 with big bores where the o-rings had been switched to x-rings. All the shocks were leaky, but when I rebuilt them, I noticed there was absolutely no compression on the x-rings provided by the lower shock cap. I rebuilt with 1-2 0.1mm shims in the x-ring/spacer stack and they're now running great. Still feel fine/smooth, but don't leak.

Yep. It's a Leadfinger Racing Retro-mod B6.3 shell. Modern doesn't have to mean cab forward.

That's almost cheap enough for parts! I'd like to think i don't need them, but the evidence suggests otherwise.

I started down this path, but it seems a bit extravagant given i don't even drink the stuff... The place I'm actually now headed down is per the following, but I only have one painted. I'm planning on making the colours common, but different paint styles (TRF201, Agama N110 will get pin stripes; Kyosho TOMS will get something nearer box art). Needs some TRF decals, I know.

No Tamiya on my list! Waiting on a Nemo Racing Agama N110 and just put a pre-order on a Kyosho TOMS.

If default is too narrow, take a look at DT02 disc wheels.e.g. 51261 or 54338, if you can find them.

This one? A nice idea, lacking in execution.

Mine gets raced. It's a terrible race car, but can be elevated to bad on the right surface. It's hard to tune. Even changing batteries is a chore. Definitely threadlock everything, especially the upper suspension arms. It doesn't appreciate being crashed and takes a bunch of time to repair breakages. And yet I still race it on a small, indoor, polished wooden floor and absolutely love it! This week's task is to replace the upper deck on mine as I broke it at the left hand trailing arm hanger. Nick Walker does a chassis brace which is going on my replacement chassis.

@RichieRichI have the m-chassis lightweight axles on TD2 hubs for my TRF211XM. They work fine. I think some combination of the TD2 spacers and those provided with the axles helps get the offset right but it's entirely possible I used additional spacers. Would be M5 i guess.