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About Ziddan

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  • Birthday 03/07/1985

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    Near Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. That is great input, i will look into adding some bracing across the joint, i know i got some sheet aluminium somewhere and then just adding something with a bit of flex as weather proofing-
  2. Today ive done some cutting and drilling on a spare dt03 chassi i got a while back, i was considering trying to 3d print the rest of the parts to put together something like a dt03 but then decided id just order an aqroshot kit since its got the right rims/tires and width to become a Street Blitzer Beetle, if the wheelbase can be addressed. So the next step will be rejoining. Some of the drilling ive done was so i could add "stiches" of rebar tie wire to hold the two parts together, it seems surprising sturdy this far but i want to further strengthen the join as well as make it water/dust proof again as the cut is across the bottom of the tub, under battery. My initial though was that the chassi would be ABS and thereby could be chemically joined using sprue dissolved in acetone/sprue goo. To prep for this i threw a bunch of cut up sprue bits, from which the chassi had been removed, into a jar of acetone but they have not dissolved and instead just gotten brittle so thats that idea is shot down. Now im looking at something else to use, any ideas as to what would work well? Chemical metal plastic padding, two part epoxy or something else? Any suggestions? @Willy iine You seem like one to be quite knowledgeable in this area since you do high level plastic construction?
  3. Depends on your definition of "fit". Every TT02 can be a buggy with longer suspension arms and differently designed uprights, thats the B version. Here my TT02B with shorter 3d printed suspension arms, im using regular TT02 cvd axles so the width is spot on, would fit any TT02 Rally body if i printed a version of the arms that does not change the wheelbase to suit a scorcher shell. Its still using the buggy uprights as i saw no good reason to change their design when i already had perfectly good parts.
  4. Today ive decided that the red (monster) beetle shell i have is going to live on my Sandhopper and use the side body post holes for mounting. As my Beetlebox had that type of rear body posts ive instead designed a scorcher shell compatible rear body mount for it, the new mount clips onto the motor brace ive made for it but i might be drilling a hole through both printed parts and into the rear tray to further secure it if needed.
  5. Today ive had beers in the shade and bounced my Desert Scorcher around on the grass.
  6. Yes and no. Parts printed using a FDM printer (which is sort of like a robotized glue gun, squirting out lines of plastic to build up the layers that will eventually be the model) will have noticeable layer lines that need to filler primed and sanded to get a smooth surface finish. Parts printed on a resin printer (which exposes a thin UV reactive layer of resin between the build plate and a screen, building the model up using voxels, think really small scale Minecraft) most of the time are fine with just priming as the voxels, even on a relatively old home user resin printer, are just shy of 0,05mm cubes. There are cases where resin prints can show more striations and that is down to gradients of angle due to how the process works. Here is a simple illustration: Where the angle is close to vertical or horizontal you get longer striations/steps due to how image processing works, home resin printers mostly use screens to mask off where the resin should be exposed so this kind of stepping will happen unless the part is oriented in a such a way as to minimize it. Newer printers have higher resolution screens/smaller voxels so it is less noticeable and there is antialiasing which induces a bit of blur to the step, also helping to smooth it but it is still visible sometimes where the angles are "right". Layer striations are similar on FDM printers due to how "slicing", as it is called works, the model is sliced into the layers that will be laid down to make the model. Smaller layers heights result in more smaller lines and it is most visible when close to horizontal, on the tops/bottoms where the layers get larger/smaller quickly, like on top of spheres etc. Services like shapeways have printers that are much higher quality by using a laser sintering process but i have no experience with parts coming off those or their resolution/limits.
  7. Ill be looking forward to seeing any results you get, have printed some FDM rims that, when printed with a good number of walls/tops/bottoms seem to be quite durable but i also have a resin printer which would deliver much nicer looking results.
  8. Took the Desert Scorcher out for a first spin to put some real dust on it, drives excellent
  9. Today ive remixed, printed and painted up a head for the driver of my Desert Scorcher: And, with the exception of a number plate, finished it up with an oil wash(a couple of days ago), painted the lights+driver body and done the assembly.
  10. Other than a number plate, the Desert Scorcher is now done. Ive not detailed anything about it in this thread earlier but this is what it is: The TT02B seen earlier has had new and narrower a-arms/wishbones printed/fitted, cvds installed, rims that fit sand scorcher paddle tires printed/+tires fitted all round, its own body shell built and painted. Did an oil wash on the body to pick out the lines a bit as well as weather it a bit. Remixed a custom head for the driver, its a somewhat reshaped/resculpted head from a free Joker bust with goggles added (because i hate painting eyes). So yeah, 4wd rally style sand buggy with an Afrika Korps inspired paintjob to complement the gray somewhat Kommandeurwagony one i already had
  11. Today i put paint on the body for my modded TT02B, the Desert Scorcher: Gotta do up the wipers, paint the tail lights, add the front lights+chrome, number plate, windows and eventually the driver. Gonna look at remixing a head with a DAK Feldmutze M41, probably just gonna change the helmet into one and essentially print a variant of the head i used on the driver of the Scorched DT02.
  12. Those look pretty cool but my thought was closer to slot cars so only throttle control and tracks+scale like the mini 4wds That promo probably had slowed down cars for the kids, seeing racing at slot or at least mini 4wd speeds would be quite a bit more exciting.
  13. I can see a quite interesting crossover here, mini 4wds with ESCs and RXs, they would enable track configurations that would be very hard/costly to do with regular slot cars. As for the Terra Scorcher Jr i got as a kid, ive got no idea where it came from and i had no idea what mini 4wd racing was until a few months back when i started getting back to RC cars/digging into Tamiya. Have never seen/heard of the mini 4wd hobby here in Sweden.
  14. Today the postman brought me: An unexpected rere Sand Scorcher shell?? Got a message earlier say id be receiving two packages today, had no idea what it might be, then another message saying one of them had been delayed. Then a package containing a rere Scorcher shell arrived, im guessing the one that got delayed is yet another one. The reason for this guess is that i was out of town and unable around to receive two sand scorcher shells a couple of weeks back. I notified the sender before going out of town that i would be away and asked that the delivery should be delayed, was notified that it wouldnt, saw delivery attempts for two or three day while i was away, was notified the delivery had been cancelled and returned to sender. Checking my bank account ive not been refunded for the cancelled delivery of two rere sand scorcher shells so ive got get on that and see if i can these returned and refunded :/
  15. My first Tamiya was the Terra Scorcher mini 4wd, had no idea what the point of it was, other than leaving marks on my moms furniture. I tied two fishing lines to it, front and rear bumper to run it in circles around me inte parking lot when not scuffing furniture. Its the reason i got the Terra Scorcher rere when i saw it
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