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About Ziddan

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  • Birthday 03/07/1985

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    Near Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. Undersized is debateable, the mahs that fit into a 3s lipo that size is are more than batteries the ORV was expecting at the time of its release, yet still around 50% higher voltage
  2. You can fit a 3c even in the stock chassi, the 2s hardcase batteries i use are 138 x 47 x 25 mm, ive had to trim the vanes on the insides of the battery compartment "end caps" so aiming for a max length of 136mm should allow for it run fit completely unmodified. Depending on if you go hardcase/softcase and the discharge rating you will end up around within a few 100s mah of 3300 mah and that ORV will be flying, possibly chunking its diff
  3. Id argue it would be 2WD/4WR+B (reverse and brake) The concept of having front wheel braking on a rear wheel drive car, mimicking real world is actually pretty interesting, ive got a TT02 chassi built, but unrun, which im intending to put a J71 VTA shell on. The original car is rear wheel drive so i had been thinking id to leave the front diff out but i might try decoupling the front diff from the driveline and designing some sort of a brake instead, might be fun
  4. As that car has a front diff i guess you could try connecting a brake to it, paralleling the throttle channel to both the ESC and a servo that will actuate the brake when giving it reverse signal. I dunno what would be best at this scale. Maybe a disc or drum on the diff input and having the servo push something against it to emulate regular front brakes. You would probably want a relatively stiff front diff so braking is applied to both wheels relatively evenly. Barring that sort of customization you might try laying the servo flat on the top deck and mounting the battery as far forward as possible to shift the weight bias. Or maybe making 4wd again and installing a one way diff backwards in the front, that way it would drive like a RWD on power but when you let off the throttle or give a reverse/brake signal the front wheels would also be applying drag/braking.
  5. +1 for filler primer being the probably easiest way, still requires sanding. You need to be printing in ABS (or some other soluble) filament to make use of acetone (or other compatible solvent) vapor smoothing.
  6. Used to mod/reassemble toys a lot as a kid. Sid is the evil kid in Toy Story that does the same, Zid is a slight variation to it. Used the nick in gaming starting at the tail end of the nineties so my LANcrew made it Ziddan, from how endings are often appended in Swedish, same sorta deal as with "John" becoming "Johnny" in English.
  7. Ive printed and broken some parts for various of my cars but overall they hold up. As regards to strength in various directions, (across/along layer lines) that is very fair. For my CW01 to poor mans monster beetle conversion i printed rear trailing arms in the style of the ORV chassi and they both broke eventually and in the exact same (but obviously mirrored) place, did a quick redesign of the parts i had downloaded (re used from miniguy71's grasshopper independent rear conversion) to add m3 bolts going through the layers to add compressing, after which they have held up. Not all parts can be redesign in such ways, there might not be space or a good way to print them on FDM. Ive also got a resin printer with a bottle of tough resin, have yet to try it but from what i understand it should be more uniform in strength. Seen some vids of people mixing tough and flexible resins to get print properties that look good, some flex to resist cracking but combined with high strength. It might come down FDM being used to prototype fit as filament is very cheap and then printing in good resin for actual use parts, where FDM doesnt cut it. On the specific topic of body posts, those ive had quite a few snap in FDM using PLA filament but most recently ive been using U95 TPU and the actual layer adhesion seems ridiculously good, combined with the flexibility of the material it seems to make ideal body posts, if they arent too tall(but adding internal supports for the shell mitigates this some, also helps with body shake). Its a bit finicky to print but where it fits it seems to do really well.
  8. Got the body printed out and and fitted, just gotta print off some of detailing and the canopy and paint can go on.
  9. Found a nice 3d model of the A959 chassi which i plugged into my reshaping of the batmobile body to fit it. Printed off the large bar going between the shock towers and it fits so ive made some locators which slot onto it and will be part of the body sections, for actually holding the thing on im going to add another flat bar going between the mounts and use a 3mm bolt+wingnut clamping some foam in between to make it sit really solid. Just started printing of the middle section of the body, top and center is a body locator slot thingie not shown above, looking at a 10 hour print for just this middle section so i hopefully it works out.
  10. Decided on a body for the WLtoys 959 i found and am currently trying to mod it to fit. Ive scaled and positioned the wheels according to the chassi and am now reworking the body, no idea if it will work well in the end but im giving it a shot at least. Its not going to be sitting as low because it needs suspension travel, need to open up the front wheel arches a bit and maybe curve the front and rear upwards a bit for some clearance but its a start.
  11. Got new electronics installed in wltoys 959 and it now drives. Im thinking i might turn it into a Warhammer 40k Ork Warbuggy of some kind.
  12. Today i went out for another drive with the Pajero and i think i might try making a smaller Hornet rear end, a bit more limited in movement than a regular one but still with some articulation and positioned the same as the Grasshopper mounts as i think a little bit of articulation will go a long way and might even out some of the side to side wobble than happens sometimes with the Grasshopper rear. When i was out i also drove by the garbage collection place to drop off some boxes and random junk and happened to find a WLtoys A959 without its body. It looks alright, just a couple of scratches, the driveline felt fine and plugging in another RX+ESC spins the wheels like they should, just gotta fit in a 3 wire servo and its driveable. No idea what ill do for a body for it but another "free" car isnt bad
  13. Scorcher shell needs customizing and painting for my Thunder Scorcher, intent on going for a Mad Max inspired styling for it. VTA Javelin shell and Audi V8 Touring shell need painting for a shared TT02 chassi. CW-01 i scavenged to start my Pajero project before the kit arrived needs a rear end built to be complete again. Blackfoot needs its decals. Another Blackfoot shell needs something, not sure if paint+decals or just paint, for my ORV Ranger. Drivers for 3 Scorcher shells, 2 Blackfoot shells and my Terra Scorcher. Im one Beetle shell short if i want them on all my intended Beetles, might look at getting a lexan shell as the last car, a Wltoys 12427, doesnt have space for a driver and is an overall quite bashing friendly with its highly flexible plastics.
  14. Took my "lowride" CW-01 Pajero out for a test drive after downgrading to Grasshopper style rear axle/gearbox mounts. Rainy day so i cant really be sure the lessened grip compares well with how it did with the hornet style articulating rear axle/gearbox mounts but it really goes well on the back wheels if one sticks the lift, drops throttle a little and slowly feeds it back in. Again, anyone running one of these should get an 18t to replace the 10t pinion, it just wheelies soo much further with it. I have to drop the front as i run out of space. (at least when its low ride modded, maybe regular height too)
  15. Removing the 10t motor adapter and installing the grasshopper gearbox mounts allowed space for using the standard grasshopper shocks and mounts. The top ones are still in the tub and with the shock attached that way there is no longer a need for my lower shock mount adapters, just bolting them into the regular mount holes works just fine. One cant really tell from this pic but the shock body has a couple of mms of clearance from the motor. Another benefit of this is that i can remove the metal brackets in the stock cw01 shock mount holes, leaving more space for a battery up there without the risk of the screws/nuts punching it. This change in position has made the angle of my wheelie bar not work anymore tho so im going to have to redesign it, no biggie, should be a very quick edit as the hard part was getting it in place on the gearbox.
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