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About Ziddan

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  • Birthday 03/07/1985

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    Near Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. Been poking around with 3d modeling on and off over the weekend: Due to seeing this cute thing when i was looking for stuff on the T3-01:
  2. I usually just use 3mm because unless the printer is very well calibrated it is very common for holes to get a little smaller, for through holes i use a round 3.1mm file in an electric hand drill to clear the hole out. Even if the printer is very well tuned id think that 2.5 might be a bit small, threads arent very deep and one is liable to split a print if not screwing into it in the z axis (ie screwing in from the top/bottom surfaces relative to how it was oriented when printing). How is the designing coming along btw?
  3. Took the Dancing Rider out for a first drive and i can conclude that the 4-8mm gravel we use around here to add grip in cold weather isnt a great combo. It drives well on the spots where there wasnt gravel to so im looking forward to finding a better place to run it or until after the spring street sweeping has been done. The FPV system is works great too. ADDITION: Tried putting the FPV onto the body in one of my Scorcher shells, perfect fit
  4. Dont think there is one, very generic and sold under different names but lst-s2 is the model and lets one find it and info about it. I did include a picture of the screen but it doesnt do it justice, here is a vid i found that was recorded using a dvr: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fnuTiZO1zI If you mean the actual monitor, no idea what brand it is, 7" with a build in receiver i bought years back for fpv droning and planes.
  5. Its an all in one unit, lst-s2. the only thing i did was to cut the tiny connector off the power input cable and replace it with a servo cable+plug from a broken servo, plugs right into the receiver for power.
  6. Alright, got the FPV head done Excuse the bad pics, the monitor image is a lot more understandable in person.
  7. Posted the topic from my phone at work after taking the pic and during some downtime i did a bit of searching and found the answer here: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?2157062-Repairing-your-fried-FlySky-FS-R8B-9B-(ver-2)-Turnigy-RX-9X8Cv2 Gonna have a look at ordering the part and following the pictorial.
  8. Except for the driver figure, ive finished up my Dancing Rider. Im surprised at how nimble it is, no issue zipping around the living room, really tight turns if going light on the throttle. Gonna start on a head replacement to hold an AIO FPV camera. Crappy pic, no natural light at the moment so lamp+flash, all washed out, Might add another decal or two but for now im quite liking the clean look.
  9. A couple of days ago when putting electronics into my ORV chassi it went dead. Was using a tble 2s, a cheapo regular size metalgear servo and this flysky receiver. Having gotten that all togeter i was testing it, yes the wheels spin the right direction and the steering is responding, all good. Then i hear a very slight click or pop, no control response and the esc reports no signal. With som electronics experience i figure that something has likely just blown up and do the smell test on the esc, fine and then the RX, a slight but definite whiff of magic blue smoke. I replace the rx with a servo tester to see if the rest is ok, responding as expected. Using my volt meter to check what the tble bec is giving, 6v., within the range for the rx, but decide ro put it aside anyway. Pull rx and esc from another model and get the build sorted. Im not all that sad about not using the tamiya esc, no lipo cutoff but the RX is an 8 channel one i had left over and put in the build because its what i had spare. Ive just started looking at a different project that is looking like it might need at least 5 channels so i want to try repairing this RX. Opening it up i see what looks like the issue: A blown component, its smd but it might be possible to replace it as the pcb is relatively simple, might find points it breaks out to if i fail to solder to the original pads. Anyone know what it might be? My wild guess is a voltage regulator.
  10. Today, before work, i got another couple of steps done the T3-01 i started after getting it in the mail yesterday. Had an issue with the rear cam style suspension causing me to take it apart a couple of times. Didnt properly figure it out until i used a pokey bit to feel around inside it and figure out the direction of the ridge the cam part should be riding on, got it wrong two or three times looking at the instructions. The diff is interesting (and tiny), its got six gears, three on each side, but mount in pairs, meshing half of their width with each other across from one side to the other and the second half meshing with the drive cup. These small gears have no axles so are riding against the walls of the slots they sit in, doesnt seem ideal for durability, i filled the sucker up with grease but if they break it should be very easy to just glue the thing together. The rear wheels arent that wide apart so i think it should still steer ok if the diff does break. Anyways, interesting build that i should be finishing up tonight.
  11. After a break since the nineties i also went for a TT02B last year, Plasma Edge 2, found it to be easy to build and drive but lacking in ground clearance, improved with some cheap'n'easy mods, also put a Sand Scorcher shell on it. Ive since rebuilt it to have shorter arms so now its sort of a bostardized rally variant.
  12. Today i was notified that Tamico had gotten Blackfoot bodies back in stock so i ordered one of those to have one each for my Blackfoot and ORV Ranger. I also added an on sale T3-01 Dancing Rider (+bearings+a couple of escs) to the order because it seems like fun, gonna be putting one of those all-in-one FPV cameras in (stead of?) the helmet of the driver for leaning FPV driving Also ordered two small 2s lipos to fit the Dancing Rider as well as a four pack of flysky rxs (as im short rxs for my tt02, Midnight Pumpkin and the incoming Dancing Rider).
  13. Ive been back into RC for about a year, started with a TT02B, then a DT02 but have since built, a grasshopper, terra scorcher, lunchbox and blackfoot, the reres are all more interesting to me for some reason. Never built any kits back in the nineties, drove some toy grades but eventually traded away a daisy pellet rifle for a Marui Big Bear and enjoyed it greatly until it chewed its diff which i had no idea there were replacement parts for. Tho im now looking at maybe picking up a T3-01 just because the leaning looks cool and like it would make a great FPV vehicle
  14. Ive built up a Frog chassi and spiced it with Brat Wheels, my gearbox clamp, rear arm stiffeners and designed/remixed/printed/added mounts for a Blackfoot body plus some random oil dampers in the front. The only change to the chassi itself was drilling out the extra hole in the suspension arm stays to 3mm in order to use those as the lower attachment points for the oil dampers. If you are interested in my ORV Ranger body mounts then they can be downloaded here: ORV-RANGER-Body-Mounts-by-Ziddan.zip
  15. After being gifted a Blackfoot for xmas and finding i really like the ORV chassi as well as the Blackfoot body i decided that i also wanted something akin to the Ranger but without going all the way to the SRB. Looking around a bit i saw that some people on here have done really good jobs of combining said body with said chassi. Here is my take on mounts for a Blackfoot body on an ORV chassi. All files are oriented according to my understanding of which will give the best parts strength when printed in FDM and i printed mine at 0.3mm layer height with tree supports enabled, beyond cleaning up supports and the brim i also had to drill out the holes for the body clips a little. The front mount is fully my own design. The base of it clips firmly over the upper tube between the suspension stays and screws into h1 where the body post would normally screw in if this was built as a frog, its "wings" extending outside of the tube clamp has recesses that friction hold nuts. The middle part bolts to the bottom, i made large clamping washers for this because if there are any knocks this would be the vulnerable point due to layer orientation when printing. The top screws onto the middle, has some back/front slide adjustability and an easily changeable body post, seeing as that should be the weak point. I have also incorporated two mount points on the middle part which i used to attach oil dampers on my build, the lower mount point i used are the unused holes in the suspension arm stays, drilled up to accept 3mm bolts. The rear mount is a remix based on Tamiya Blackfoot/Monster Beetle Rear Body Posts By Jesse Shipe/sixdeuces on thingiverse. Link to said file: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4746502/ Remixing and design was done using Blender and calipers. These files are released under the Creative Commons - Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike license. The downloadable files are available here: ORV-RANGER-Body-Mounts-by-Ziddan.zip
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