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Ziddan

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About Ziddan

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  • Birthday 03/07/1985

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    Near Stockholm, Sweden

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  1. Had to print/fit some modified trailing arms due to the shock mount location causing the spring on the motor side to grind against it and the dogbones being hyperextended/binding with the previous version. Gonna give this a try, it seems fixed but if not ill print some longer braces to go on the back, tilting the gearbox a little more downwards and decreasing the dogbone angle at rest. Ive also realized that i had trimmed the sides of the tub just behind the front shock mounts, removing the screw holes for the body post in the process of fitting the scorcher shell. Back when i made the Midnight Beetle i designed a strut to attach to the tops of the upper shock mounts, bracing them together and holding the front central body post for the scorcher shell, modifying it to extend back a bit and adding lunchbox body posts to it should be pretty easy so on to do that now.
  2. Ive thought the exact same thing but those mini4wds are surprisingly expensive nowdays and i dont like the more commonly available design with their garish colors. Id get a Terra Scorcher Jr, like i had as a kid, to make it RC, like i wanted as a kid, to complement my rere one As for what im up to: Tonight im taking apart the chassi that used to be for my Midnight Beetle and hopefully reassembling it with the correct wheelbase to go under a Pumpkin or Lunchbox shell. Currently im waiting for the two "gearbox mounts" to print. I converted the CW01 to a modified miniguy71 independent trailing arm rear suspension setup when i was using it for the Midnight Beetle so now im attempting to shorten it back to stock, it will retain the rear trailing arms (and front double wishbones) so i guess its going to be a halfway hacked together modernized CW01. For those that havnt seen this before: Its grasshopper gearbox converted from solid axle to work with sorta ORV style trailing arms.
  3. Did some more to the Recycled Monster Beetle tonight. ESC mounted to the underside of the MSC plate, RX velcro mounted up top (im low on RXs), added strengtheners to the trailing arm shock mounts and a diff clamp. While i had the rear end partially apart i looked at the hexes of the drive shafts and they are in very good condition. I noticed that the front shock mount screws are drilled all the way through the upper arms and held with a lock nut, instead of just being threaded into the plastic, a mod i did on my rere Blackfoot for the sake of durability, which i found to be neat on what is probably a close to initial release period build, seems like whoever put this together knew, or figured out, some of the tricks that are more commonly known in the internet age. Im happy with it for now, beyond the fact that the power switch is so small that it doesnt reach between to two screw holes on the moun,t but i doubt it will affect function. Ive also put my assortment boxes of screws, nuts, bolts, o-rings, heatshring tubing, connectors and other random hardware together in a large lidded tub so i can easily get them all out and put them all away neatly and easily.
  4. Last night and today ive poked a bit more at the Recycled Monster Beetle. Cotton sticks and red alcohol cleared most of the sharpie marks off the front fenders. Switched the battery connector to a deans and after i added a flysky rx and some ubec i found that the steering servo was dead, possibly the reason it got parked without any other kind of damage. Had another suitable replacement servo in storage so in it went. Then i took some threaded rod and two left over shock end eyelets to make a replacement right steering pushrod. I also shimmed out one of the battery compartment sides using a couple of 1150 bushings to fit my 2s 5.2a zeee lipo. And now ive just done a couple of burnouts and turns around the living room, it drives and steers I did however get a whiff of hot electronics and figured out that the resistor was getting pretty toasty after just a minute or two. Do they handle 2s or should i install an ESC just to be sure? Im not really worried about the resistor breaking but id like to avoid runaways or fires. On another note, the fit between the nose cone and rest of the body seems noticeably better and mold lines seem smaller than on the rere scorcher shells i have.
  5. Huh, that part is also new to me, ive got a Rere Blackfoot and it didnt have one of those so i didnt realize it was missing here. Rere cost savings i guess? Nah, im not looking to do a period correct rebuild, just to have a running Monster Beetle, If the servo saver ends up popping i guess ill just design and print a part or switch to a different servo saver Took the front arms off to tighten down the stays and now the front end is solid. Im thinking ill make an adapter plug with a deans with a JST so i can plug in a modern BEC and run it with the MSC and my 2s lipos, at least to try initially, i havent driven a car with a MSC since i still had a Marui Big Bear somewhere around the tail end of the last millennium
  6. Spent a little time to clean off the chassi and look closer at it. Took a front wheel off, plastic bushings there so im going to suspects its not got any bearings installed. its probably not rare but i hadnt seen this before: Its got a 2 pin output seemingly factory wired from the MSC and hooked to a what i guess is a BEC built onto the power switch, which in turn feeds the RX. Anyone know if this and the RX dates the car? I think its one of these:
  7. I had guessed it was vintage from the decals, resistor, MSC and Acoms RX, hadnt even realized its got the full windows set, thanks for pointing it out Will try to carefully remove the marker lines from the front fenders, Possibly clear coat the body to preserve the decals, clean up the chassi a bit, slap in a Flysky RX, some ESC and then it should be driveable after i make a new steering pushrod and tighten up some of the screws around the front end/shock mount. My Midnight Beetle shell will be moving from my stretched wheelbase CW-01 chassi onto my modded Thundershot chassi, becoming the Midnight Thunder Scorcher instead. Then that CW-01 is getting unstretched so the one unmodified CW-01i have will no long have to do double duty for my Pumpkin and Lunchbox shells.
  8. Today i picked something out of a recycling bin. I think the only missing parts are one of the steering pushrods, the antenna tube and a body clip. The diff feels nice, the shocks all still have oil in them and the tires are all round Feel very lucky to have found and been able save this one
  9. Im in the process of changing the furniture about in the living room so i picked up some shelving to get my cars and their boxes up off the floor. The boxes used to be stacked behind my couch and the cars all spread about on open surfaces. I may end up consolidating similar chassis into one box, so Grasshopper/Lunchbox/Pumpkin/Pajero, Terra Scorcher/Fire Dragon, TT02s, DT02/DT03. But for now that isnt a priority, its a corner shelf and the bit to the left of the picture is still empty. I think im gonna pic up a couple of storage tubs for random RC bits as well to clear off my table that is currently strewn with them.
  10. Slicing isnt like the olden days where you would have to input everything about your printer, nowdays there are reliable profiles for pretty much all branded printers around and many of the brands of filaments, the most you are likely to need to do is make sure you are getting the bed level (which a lot of better printers are doing automagically) and getting good bed adhesion (just clean the bed with warm soapy water). Select the printer and filament you have, if the filament doesnt have a profile just try one that is of the same type (PLA, PETG ect), temperature and have a go. Tree supports are the go to for most things that require supports IME. Printing for me is a lot easier nowdays than it used to be and im still running an almost decade old noname kit printer i put together from scratch (except for soldering the actual components onto the arduino and motor control shield). just because slicing software is a lot better with way more usable defaults already put in, last i had to redo my printer setup i just input the size of the build volume, how the bed centered and the diameter of the nozzle and it was all good. Im kinda wanting to pick up a bambolab printer with the material switcher but im not printing so much that it feels justified. On the design side of things, ive not been able to learn CAD and this is possibly because doing stuff parametrically feels very abstract due to me getting my start in 3d modelling in blender, its the wrong tool of mechanical design but ive managed to use it to modify diffs, built suspension setups and even a two speed gearbox with servo controlled shifting. I also used tinkercad (which isnt very much like CAD at all) and 3d builder. Going into CAD fresh seems like it might be the way to go as starting with the more simplified/visual/drag-and-droppy programs can mean you pick up habits and ideas about how things "should work" that arent helpful when trying to do actual CAD.
  11. This is a very fun project to read about and reminds me lot of the Open Panzer Tank Control Board. Im not a coder but as there is quite a bit of crossover when it comes to functionality and both run on Mega2560s so you might have a look at that project to see if you find anything useful. And if you are interested ive got a few extra (unpopulated) baldock shields kicking around, i could send you one (at no cost, ill just pop it in an envelope and post to to you) as they are doing no work just sitting in one of my boxes. (It breaks out quite a few pins, i cant tell exactly how large the crossover is with what you are doing but do have a look, it might be a worthwhile repurpose for your use case.) Here is the thread on that specific board-> https://www.rctankwarfare.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=32856
  12. Wouldnt really tall gearing combined with high weight stress the motor unduly due to high amp draw/heat to get things moving? Dont really see the need for high turn or odd gearing, seems better to go with something standardish and tweak the torque/top speed electronically. I had a look through some of the spectrum ESC manuals, specifically the programming section, and while it has options, it seems you would have to hope one of the predefined options are suitable and i see no options for limiting the max RPM. Ive seen vids where they (rctestflight, rclifeon and jamesbruton come to mind) do use ESCs that seem to accept fully custom programming, i expect that sort of esc is probably relatively costly compared to your regular hobbywing 1060 but might be a worthwhile investment for scale realism. There might also be something out in scale rc trucking or tank land that could do adjustments like it, i built an Open Panzer TankControlBoard, it has option for setting vehicle inertia.
  13. Depending on your TX, there are some that can time delay/ramp throttle input, ive read its commonly used to either simulate jet engines or train for flying EDF or jet RC planes. Beyond the TX side of things: some better (possibly only brushless) ESCs can be programmed to limit amp draw. this will essentially let you set how torquey the motor can be, making for less wheelspin and slower acceleration. There might also be settable rpm limits to allow good control of top speed, separate from amp draw, if running the top speed you desire pulls less that your max draw allowed for acceleration. Someone more knowledgeable in brushless can probably tell you in more detail.
  14. Seems a bit unreasonable, dont squander the investment and let them be until end of life/when upkeep will no longer be economically reasonable. But its undeniable that Germany shutting down the nuclear plants was a Because any Needs plannable energy, not just spikes of cheap power when its windy as that also brings spikes of expensive power when its windless. Power prices here in Sweden, especially in the south, go through the roof when German demand is high due to EU power transference policies. The most cost effective/green investments with regards to power that can currently be done is making generation efficient in the second/third/industrializing world where power demand is expanding quickly, Instead of the first world virtuously cutting ourselves off at the knees in trying to lessen our own emissions further, most of the first world is already pushing up against the line of diminishing returns when it comes to clean energy. But whatever, Greta will save us all
  15. Today i did receive the promised 380 heatsink+fan combo, modified it to fit and installed them on my Scorched DT02. Then i finally got around to building a new gearbox for my CW01 chassi on which i run my Lunchbox or Midnight Pumpkin body, just need an ESC and RX and its ready to run again,.
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