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About Panther6834

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  1. Same with me. I'm running XRAY clamping hexes on my TD4 (actually, I use the XRAY clamping hexes on almost all of my 1/10 vehicles), and I don't have this problem. The great thing about clamping hexes is that you can 'space' them appropriately. For those worried about the hex pushing up against the bearing, causing 'binding', one trick you can use is the same "paper trick" people use for getting gear mesh correct - slip a couple pieces of paper (one on each side of the axle stub) between the hex & bearing, push the hex down to the paper, and tighten the hex's clamping screw. If the paper is so loose, that it falls out on its own, the hex is too far. If the paper is so tight, you can't pull it out, the hex is too close. If neither of these is the case, and you can pull the paper out by just slightly pulling on the paper, then the hex is at a perfect distance from the bearing.
  2. For the Bay Area, RazorRC, RC Review, and Fog City RC are all great sources. Driftomaniacs was another really good one, until Richie moved away...however, about 9 months ago, he just "disappeared" (I, along with John from Fog City, have emailed, texted, and called him, all without any reply/answer...and, unfortunately, I no longer have his wife's phone number to call and find out). Between the three 'current' ones still in the Bay Area, they cover several different areas of RC...about the only things they don't cover are micro (ie. 1/28 scale 'Mini-Z'), jumbo (ie. 1/7 & 1/5 scale), or nitro. If you want more Tamiya-focused, I'd suggest Tamiya Legends & RC Kicks (both UK-based, but excellent Tamiya content).
  3. That, I cannot answer. You'd have to ask him, yourself...if you can find him.
  4. 1) I, almost always, reply/post using mobile, and I can't recall ever having problems. Might be the mobile browser you're using. 2) No, NorCal Hobbies has, as far as I'm aware, always been NorCal Hobbies. The original location was in the East Bay (Fremont, I think, but I could be wrong), but Eric moved it to San Jose approx a dozen years ago (give/take a couple years). I believe the originally location had an outdoor dirt track. Until 3 years ago, the San Jose location had an indoor clay track, but was converted to carpet (which it's remained since). It's a great shop, with a great track, and great people working there. If you're in the South Bay, you should definitely check it out. Ona related note, about 18 months ago, Eric bought the HobbyTown location in Fresno, CA. Since purchasing the store, he's completely revamped the store, and brought the San Jose store into the HobbyTown family. Additionally, at the Fresno store, there's an outdoor on-road track that's free for anyone to use (at least, as of the last time I was there (Feb 2022), if was still free). While the Fresno store focuses almost entirely on RTRs (for RC, but they carry other hobby-related stuff), the San Jose store has a fairly even selection of RTRs & kits.
  5. There are two tracks - one asphalt, one dirt - at Silver Bowl Park...but, the last time I was there (approx 2yrs ago), it was in such disrepair, and looked like it hadn't had any maintenance in several years. This is a public park. The plastic lining the sides was all but gone, and it was close to impossible to make out a good portion of the track layout. Even so, I do know a number of racers that still go there to practice...and, at least from what I've heard (I have no proof, yet), The track has supposedly been redone somewhat recently. I'll need to check it out. I REALLY miss the NorCal Hobbies track (San Jose, CA). Evidently, there used to be a couple of great tracks at Gene Woods Racing Experience (Sunset Blvd)...a med-size track, and a large track, but the only thing still operational (at least, as far as I'm aware) is the go-kart track...the RC tracks look like they haven't been used in several years. Truth be told, I'm not even sure the go-kart side of the business is operating right now, as I haven't ever seen any go-karts on the track in the 3.5 months that I've been living here.
  6. That be great...IF I even had a carpet track near me. Unfortunately, several months before moving to Las Vegas, the only carpet track - 702 Speedway - closed. Adding "insult to injury", having already decided to 'dump' TLR, I bought/built a new carrier buggy (XRAY XB2C), and even that's 'useless' now. I'm going to be selling the 22 5.0...and, as for the XB2C, I haven't decided whether to sell it, or use it as a basher. If course, if I were to sell both, I should get enough to buy an Egress Black Edition. 😁
  7. Your track still has people racing TLR? lol. Seriously, I used to race a 22 5.0 AC...but, now, it's as if Losi/TLR is focusing 99.9% on dirt/clay, and completely ignoring carpet/asphalt. Plus, since they're "betting the farm" on Dakotah, and have (essentially) dropped all their other top drivers, most lower-level drivers have switched to 'anyone else'. For the rear hubs, and front knuckles, I'll check them out.
  8. The stock plastic XV-01 hubs...or aluminum? Also...front, rear, or both?
  9. Plus, the great thing about the fender design is that you can remove them, and reinstall them, whenever you want - leave the fenders attached to the 'middle' mounting pieces, and it's the mounting pieces, themselves, that you remove/reinstall. As for the inboard suspension, I don't ever undo it - it's permanently installed. In my TD4, the battery doesn't go there...that's where the ESC & receiver are. Instead of a full-length pack going there, I use a shorty pack in the back. Since the TD4 & TD2 share the same chassis, and both kits come with the same parts for that area, I affixed the flat "cover" piece on one side, and the other side piece into a "swiveling door". I know I'm not the first to do this, as it was someone else who came up with the idea, and posted it earlier in the forum. I can't take any photos to show (the photo I posted was taken months ago, before I moved...and, I still haven't finished unpacking), but, if your scroll back, I'm sure you'll find the post for the originator of the idea.
  10. Performance? It's a Tamiya...what 'performance'? Lol
  11. Have a 'minor' opinion, do you? Bet you also enjoy stealing candy from children. As for the TD4 body, while I am in agreement with many others that it's extremely far from "perfect", I don't think it as horrible as you want to make it out to be...and, I am in complete disagreement with your "no color scheme can save" comment. I've shown mine (in person) to write a number of people, and every one of them has REALLY liked what I did.
  12. Understood. As I'm also interested, do you (or anyone else) have a link?
  13. Just a quick add-on/update to my previous post. After testing, to see if the above-mentioned mod will truly work, and determining it will, I modded the chassis pan & cross brace, to allow the use of battery posts. After those had been done, I put everything in place (minus the closed-cell foam blocks, which I still have to cut), including a battery, and this is what it looks like. At this point, I'm 99.999% certain my idea will work.
  14. Like a lot of us who've purchased, or considered purchasing, the TD4 Super Avante, the location is the battery tray, and how to insert/remove the battery, isn't exactly "ideal"...which is exactly why a number of TD4 owners have come up with ways of relocating the battery to the position it's in in the TD2 Astute. The "solution" several have come up with involves designing & 3D printing alternate parts. Unfortunately, a lot of people (myself, included) don't have 3D printers...so, we have to come up with other ideas. I'll admit I haven't looked at every alternate battery solution others have come up with...but, one thing I have noticed is that none of them (at least, from those I've seen) have used parts that came with the TD4...especially the side pieces intended for the TD2. So, I decided to see if using those pieces is even possible. Obviously, as they come, they can't be used, as they'd cause the buggy body to bow outward approx 1cm on each side. But...what if they could be modified to work? So, I decided to give it a shot...and, out came my favorite power tool for RC use - my Dremel. After removing a little at a time & testing, removing some more & testing again, and so forth, I ended up with what you see below. In all 4 images, the part on the left is the factory part, while the part on the right is the modded part. Yes, the body does still bow outward...but, by only 1-2mm. I realize that, by removing so much from the outer side, it would be exposing the ends of the battery...but, if I glue in a piece of closed-cell foam, it will not only protect the ends of the battery, but will also allow 'shorty' packs to be used without them sliding side-to-side. No need to constantly 'move' the shock tower, and now there's plenty room to install the ESC & Rx up front...all without having to design/print new parts.
  15. I've been considering doing something similar (especially considering the TD4 kit includes the TD2 parts for that area)...but, since I don't have a 3D printer, I'll have to come up with something different. Until I do, the idea I already have will work. As for sealing the gearbox, I've done this with other vehicles in different ways - electrical tape, thin foam tape, creating a (very thin) rubber 'gasket', rubbing a light layer of dielectric grease over the seam - all of which have worked. In regards to the TD4, as I haven't yet run mine, I don't yet know where dirt might enter, thus don't know which of my 'techniques' might work best. If you haven't already solved the problem on your vehicle, you might try one (or some) of the methods I use.
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