IXLR8

Man, I applaud your optimism. Of course, I hope you are right. I'd like nothing more than for everyone who wants to own an RC10 to have that chance. That would provide for them the opportunity to drive a real race car -- with multiple world championships -- a legend in the RC world.

Yes, new molded parts should be stronger. If you run original molded parts, it's important to keep them hydrated so they don't become brittle. I recall breaking maybe a couple front arm blocks, steering and castor blocks. This happens when one clips a tree or fence post - we have many obstacles in the back yard. Shock shafts and hinge pins can be made from 1/8" round stock if one has access to groove and threading cutting tools. I bought a 3' length from my local hardware store a few years ago and I think it's time to restock. Most RC10 parts are available through aftermarket sources and original parts from ebay (if you have deep pockets). Nearly every RC10 collector will want one pristine example to display and remember the old days. Pristine A stamp pans and front plates are fetching big money these days. If the trend holds, maybe someday I could liquidate my relatively modest collection and use the proceeds to buy a winter home in Costa Rica.

While the RC10 is tough as nails, it can wear out over time. My backyard track is very sandy so worn ballcups, hinge pins, drive cups, dog bones, shock shafts, - just about every moving part - are a nagging problem. Even the chassis pan on at least one of my runners is wearing thin. I have actually broken very few parts and it's always been due to driver error.

I'm an incurable Jeepaholic. I bought this FMS-ROC Hobby 1/6 scale Jeep a couple years ago and although I like driving it, it’s always seemed a bit too slow for me – it’s truly a “Crawler”. So today I replaced the FMS-branded 35t 550 motor with a peppy little Traxxas 20t 540 unit. Now, it’s fast enough to fling payload out of the trailer… … but not quite this fast. I’ve also taken some time today to do a little research. Please pardon me while I geek-out on a little Jeep history. The US Government’s contract to produce Jeeps was awarded to Willys-Overland Motors and Ford Motor Company in 1941. The Jeep’s design actually belonged to Bantam USA (they won the design contest) but the US War Department’s daily production requirement greatly exceeded Bantam’s manufacturing capacity (they employed 15 workers at the time) so manufacturing rights were handed to Willys and Ford. Of the roughly 647 thousand WWII Jeeps, about 277 thousand were made by Ford. Anyway, during war-time production, Willys' Jeep was known as an “MB” while Ford's were called the “GPW” (G=government, P=wheelbase code (80”), and W=Willys engine design). This FMS RC model is marketed as a “1941 Willys MB”. Early Willys Jeeps included a multi-part grille (similar to the original Bantam’s) that was constructed from flat stock – they are called “slat grille MBs”. Since the Willys grille was (needlessly) complex, Ford suggested a much simpler-to-make single-piece stamped steel part (it featured 9 slots), the Government approved the design change so all Fords and post-‘41 Willys featured the new stamped grille. This FMS model includes the 9-slot grille so it cannot be a ’41 Willys but it could be ’42 or later. But there’s more. There are a few subtle differences between Willys' MB and Ford's GPW; The glove box door and speedometer markings to name a couple. This model actually includes the projected glove box door and speedometer marked in 1 MPH increments which were featured in the Ford GPW. The MB's glove box doors were flat and speedos were marked in 10 MPH increments. So why is FMS calling this a “Willys MB”? Probably because most fans of the Jeep have always associated it with Willys-Overland; it’s a "Willys Jeep". Also, since Willys-Overland Motors no longer exists (the company became defunct when it merged with Kaiser in 1953), this saves FMS licensing costs. I’ve also learned that: “Jeep” is not slang for GP “GP” does not mean “general purpose” and “Willys” is pronounced “will – ess” not “will – ease”. Okay, most of this will appear on Monday's exam. I hope you were taking notes.

I'm stating the obvious but sales depend upon desirability and an item like this reaches the peak of desirability if consumers believe its supply is limited. If AE were to re-established the RC10 as a regular production item and purchased parts to fill their shelves, consumers will think that they could always buy it now or maybe later, sales numbers would diminish quickly and AE could be left with dead inventory to carry or fire-sale at or below cost AE learned this lesson the hard way last time with the Worlds car re-re and I don't think they will repeat that mistake. I could be wrong and I hope that I am, but this could be your only opportunity to buy a NIB RC10 for very a long while - maybe forever. For my part, I'm lucky to have been collecting RC10's for many years and I really don't want another car to set on the shelf. I'll just stand by and watch what happens.

Another limited release? Congratulations Fan RC, you are safe. Please keep molding RC10 parts; we will need them.

The color looks great and it seems to work well with black wheels, nerf bars, etc. I'd be very tempted to leave it without decals or maybe add some very simple black stripes. Maybe test some stripe designs using electrical tape? Looks good!!

F-150, I'm with you. I haven't built a NIB gold pan RC10 in roughly 38 years. Teasing a future re-release promotes conversations like this which fuels interest from RC hobbyist that missed the boat last time or maybe were unaware or wouldn't otherwise care about an RC10. With pent-up demand increasing, one thing's for certain. When the kits are finally released, they are going to fly off shelves. Pre-order shenanigans, shipping delays, "out of stock" notices, etc. We've seen this movie before -- many times actually.

While I agree completely and cannot wait for another true, fully raceable re-release of the RC10 classic, I can't help but worry a bit about companies like Fan RC who have invested heavily in tooling to mold RC10 parts. If AE offers spares again, it will certainly impact Fan RC's sales. Makes me want to order a full set from them just to say thanks for remembering us old-timers. Had my old worn-out short arm car out today. I love driving that car!!

Tamiya has made some changes to the Sand Scorcher body for the 2010 re-release. The changes are mostly with the fenders and are easy to spot so I reckon your original vintage body has some value. I prefer the vintage body but it's rare to find one in good condition.

Hey thanks! I first noticed this truck in Youtube videos posted last summer. I was familiar with the brand (Traction Hobby) and really wanted the truck but I couldn't find a US importer. I reached out to TH but received no reply. Anyway, I just happened to search for them again last month and discovered that Fearless RC was setup as US importer back in December. They offer free shipping and a 5% discount at the moment. That said, I paid around $688 so it's not a cheap toy. Quality is excellent however.

The rain has move out, the sun has returned and it's a really nice day here. I've had some time this afternoon to go play in the dirt with my newest toy truck. Having ran two batteries through it so far, some initial impressions stand out to me. First, it is quiet. With two speeds, selectable 4WD/2WD and locking diffs there's a lot going on in those gear boxes yet the truck is almost completely silent. I have RC's that sound like a coffee grinder so I really appreciate that this one isn't like that. Second is the plush suspension. Even at slow speed, the truck moves over rough terrain very much like a full size vehicle. As a "scale nerd", I really like that. The spring rates and dampening seem spot-on for an RC of this size and weight. Stiffer springs and an anti-roll bar for the front are included in a parts bag for some added tuning. It does lean a bit in the turns but probably no more than a 1:1 truck running at high speed. I think I'll leave the parts in the bag. Also, to fit two 2s packs in the battery tray under the body shell, I had to place them on edge. Stacking the batteries horizontally makes them too tall for the body to fit properly. On 4s, it really goes. Probably as fast as my Kyosho Javelin. Anyway, I'm having lots of fun with this truck.

Done!

It's the rainy season here as well. WOW! This models wasn't on my radar but having seen yours, and how great your car looks, I'm thinking about this now.

I have the F150's ESC reprogrammed. Now, the truck coasts during off-throttle -- no drag brake. However, I've also discovered the reason the ESC was setup for drag brake mode. Apparently, the truck's lighting module cannot distinguish a single throttle push (brake lights) vs. a double push (reverse lights). Neutral throttle illuminates brake lights and throttle push illuminates reverse lights and I don't see an easy way to change it. I reckon one could reach out to Traction Hobby for a work-around but I see this as minor annoyance so it's just not worth my time.

Some parts needed to repair the SC10 after a very unfortunate encounter with a picnic table leg. These came from a random ebay seller. And, a programming card required to make changes to the TH F150's ESC. I've bought the card from my all-time favorite online source for RC parts; Liquid RC. Today is Saturday and the order was placed Thursday. Extremely fast shipping, to say the least. They offer parts at competitive prices, 99 cent shipping for everything and, best of all, amazing service!!

Very cool build! With that 4.5t, you'll probably need a wheelie bar. I'd be tempted to try a set of Blitzer Beetle wheels. Might need to lift the body a bit to prevent tire rub -- but, maybe not? Anyway, unlike a true BB, with a mid-motor TT chassis you have plenty of space under the bonnet for a super scale faux motor.

The ebay axle for the Chevy K10 build arrived today. I couldn't wait to assemble leaf springs and wheels that arrived last week. ...and, compare the assembly to the rear axle that's under the TF2 Blazer. The two axles appear dimensionally identical (170mm pin to pin) and gear ratio is the same as well: 2.67:1 The differences: two sets of shock mounts and this case is fully CNC machined. The TF2's cases are die cast and don't fit together as well. The fit and finish on this one is excellent. Very happy so far.

The TH F150 is finished: I've replaced the XT60 with an EC5 (to match my 3s packs) and relocated the power switch to underside of floor pan to provide access without removing the body. And, using this photo of the 1:1 truck as reference... ... finished applying decals. Panel gap stickers were a bit tricky but otherwise the job wasn't too horrible. The truck uses a Hobby Wing 880 ESC which is programmed with an off-throttle (neutral) drag brake (pushing the trigger only provides reverse). I very much prefer off-throttle coast and brake by pushing the trigger (like my other RCs) so I've order a HW LED programming card to make changes. Anyway, I reckon they're never really "finished". I'd like to add a roll bar and spare tire in the bed. The interior could use a coat of matt clear as well; It's too glossy.

Same here. I also built scale models as a pup but I never submitting any for competition -- none of them were really that good. Anyway, most of my models except for a few 1/8 scale were sold at yard sales when I was still a teen -- around the time I entered the RC hobby. Still, the "scale" bug never left me. I really like what the guy at Make It RC is is doing -- converting 1/24 models to RC. https://www.youtube.com/@MakeItRC

Yeah, who needs brakes anyway. They just slow you down. Anyway, the car looks fantastic, as always. Ultra scale. I really appreciate that yourself and others here on TC are blurring the line between static display models and RC.

I agree, MST makes some very nice wheels. I was wondering about the wheels on this pickup that's posted on ebay and I think you've provided the answer. They look great!!!

Yet another F150. This one’s 1/8 scale and features remote locking diffs, 2-speed gearbox, selectable 2WD/4WD and some really nice 2.2 aluminum bead-lock wheels. ... and an elaborate lighting system (brake, signals, reverse, hazards, etc.) – all controlled from a 7-channel FS-G7P radio. I've never owned anything from Traction Hobby but having spent an hour to closely inspect this one, overall quality looks very good and this trucks appears to be pretty durable as well. This guy drove his off a cliff and it survived: Anyway, it’s 4s capable so it should be pretty fast and fun to drive -- but I won’t be driving mine off a cliff. Included are a couple large sticker sheets with Ford/Raptor/Eco-Boost livery and stripes for panel gaps. I don’t typically buy RTR’s but I’ve been building a lot of kits lately so it’s nice to have an RC that’s ready to go with no assembly or painting required. Speaking of builds, the leaf springs for the Chevy square body build arrived today as well.

Thanks! Yeah, I probably should. I've found that having a build thread helps to keep me motivated to finish a project. Otherwise, I usually start to burn-out after about two weeks and it just doesn't get finished. And, I have way too many unfinished projects. Nothing on this build will come from Tamiya so not sure if I should post it here or elsewhere on the web. Maybe it's better suited to SBG.

After assembling a 4x4 K5 Blazer a few years ago, I've wanted to build a very detailed and scale accurate 2WD pickup. Well, the first and probably most important part of that build arrived today. My plans include a scratch-made chassis with accurate suspension; A-arms and coil springs in front, solid axle and leaf springs in the rear - like the 1:1 truck. I've searched the web and found this drawing of the frame that should prove helpful. I haven't yet found detailed drawings of the front suspension. I'll probably just have to improvise and design the parts using photos as reference. I'll use a 3d printing service to make the suspension parts. Sourcing coil springs with the correct OD, length and spring rate should be... interesting. I have this motor cover from SSD which I think will work well in this build, Rear axle, springs and wheels should arrive later this month. Meanwhile, I have enough here to begin design work.