Mh1986

All painted, I don't know why they have to come with such awful paint jobs, some times less is more. Any recommendations for a small driver figure?

Unfortunately, it's pre cut, so I'm not really able to test unless I can strip the original paint. I have quite a few cans of ps paint left over so I was hoping to use that. Thank you both for the help.

hi, has anyone ever heard of a clear pvc body shell? I brought a cheap ish basher, as all my tamiya's end up being shelf queen's. I can't leave anything alone and I want to do a better paint job but the instructions say the body is pvc. What do I paint it with? Ps, Ts etc. It does seem thicker than lexan, it's clear but has not got a protective outer film. Any help would be much appreciated.

Does anyone know what a good price is, for a black edition egress ? I've seen one for around £390 delivered with tax and duty paid as it would be from Europe.

Thank you for the advice, I may have to use some left over paint on a scrap body just to test what happens. My main worry was the solvents/ panel line products. I am having issues with the practice body I have, it was painted by its previous owner and the paint seems to come off easily with rubbing alcohol on a paper towel. I have tried water colours before but it didn't look great.

I think it's an automotive acrylic lacquer with a satin finish, it's the same brand as the colour. I painted it a while ago, at the time I had not intended on adding as much detail, I just didn't want it to look shiny new. As my old defender was never shiny.

I would like to highlight the panel lines on this hard body, would the tamiya line wash damage the paint underneath? I have used an auto motive acrylic spray paint with a satin clear over the top. Im new to making things look scale and I'm not sure what paints are compatible.

Now I just need to modify the decals.

Thanks for the advice, I'm not really sure what the shell is made of, if it's the same as the wheels it is ABS. The styrene sheet has bonded to the shell just fine. My issue seemed to be having any styrene sheet In the acetone prevented it from become a smooth lump free liquid Slurry).

I imagine my sheets must be hips not abs, the advert simply says styrene sheet. It has come out fairly well with just the abs slurry, however I find it quite difficult to sand smooth without damaging the surrounding areas, filler may have been easier in this respect. The slurry also leaves small air bubbles which I was hoping the primer and paint may have filled in but have not.

Made a third batch, same quantities, this time only using tamiya part sprues, no styrene sheet and it works perfectly. Next question, can any one recommend a filler that will work with the abs. I just want a fine skim over the top to smooth out the imperfections

Thanks for the advice everyone, it looks so simple on YouTube. I will test it on some scraps first.

If it was too wet would it not be really thin? If I try to stir it, it moves around like a blob in the liquid it doesn't seem to want to mix. Would replacing the acetone make any difference?

Thank you, I'm not sure if my ratio is wrong

Hi, I'm very new to modifying plastic hard bodies and I'm currently struggling to make a decent abs slurry for filling gaps and reinforcing joints. I'm trying to stretch a grasshopper body to fit a DT03 chassis. I've tried using 25g part sprues in 50ml of acetone and ended up with a PVA type liquid with lumps that don't dissolve. I tried again yesterday same quantities but with new styrene sheet and ended up with a putty like blob sat underneath the acetone. Any advice would be much appreciated

Thanks @ALEXKYRIAK, I've kind of gone off on a tangent since posting on here and have sold my TT02B, I am however attempting to build a DT03 grass hopper and a DT02 grass hopper 2, work so far

I love this design/ idea @ALEXKYRIAK would you be happy to share your carbon shock tower designs, so I can order a pair. I promise it won't be orange.