Pierced
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Posts posted by Pierced
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Now, my carson receiver joystick for gear is now switched to the other side where I turn to left or right instead of where it moves forward and back.🤦♂️
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Update: With some tinkering of the ESC settings, the battery was able to hold around almost an hour of running though it was very slow hehehe my nephew was telling me it was so slow hahahaha
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I have also set up the ESC to the correct settings. Battery on NiMh, so on and so forth. The running time is also better than before. I’m thinking maybe its the stuck wheel now. It doesnt rotate like the 3 other tires..
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you guys have been very awesome extending help.
Anyhow, we just arrived from a mini 5day vacation and that was when I tried the tundra & just ran a max of 5mins. I will try to check everything tomorrow after I clean up everything. I am off for a 1.5wk at work so I can put a lot of time on this. I’ll just set aside 3 books I need to read, sexercize and basketball hahahahah
I will update you guys once I have calibrated the ESC, checked the pinion gear lock, the wheels and trying understand how braking works as how you have explained to me.
I really really sibxerely appreciate you guys’ help.👍👍👍
If only I could post videos.. hihi
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Btw, how does 1 use the brakes? I just use the forward and back throttle..
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@Tamiya Fan 1 is hank you so much sir for all the tips! I really appreciate it a lot! I wanted to post a video on it here so you guys who have helped would be able to see the truck drive. Unfortunately we can upload only 4.88MB.
Ok, then. I will loosen the tires such that they are able to free wheel a couple times considering I’m using bushings. 😬
I thought that the picture I show now should be tighten. Isn’t this the pinion gear?
I will loosen the clutch as well as per instruction. I think I did it right the 1st time.
Fir the battery, I’m only charging it at 3.2A. (Auto charging). I will use 5A then.. ☺️👍
I think with the wheels I just need to loose it a little bit. ☺️👍👍👍
Will uodate once it starts working. ☺️☺️☺️
Thanks a lot! Very much appreciated!😬😬😬👍👍👍
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When attaching the where’s, should these be real tight? Like it doesnt free wheel?
Also, the run time is only at best 5mins then it begins to slow down.
Am I not charging it correctly or I have to calibrate the hobbywing esc to NiMh battery? I was just plugging it in and just took it from there.
Thanks! When one is able to finish a Kit it makes one very very happy like accomplishing something.☺️👍👍👍
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It’s ok now! ☺️☺️☺️😬😬😬👍👍👍
Needed to tighten pinion..👍👍👍
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I am so close.. Isnt the hobbywing just plug & play? That’s what I saw in YouTube. Anyhow mine, turns left and right. However, it doesnt move forward or back. 😔
See my post on Tamiya Legends post..
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1630266510592821/permalink/2995898024029656/
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17 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:
It is OK not to mount it if that R1 piece (if that is what you are referring to) serves no purpose and you are mounting the switch somewhere else.
Thank you!👍☺️ I think that goes same for R7 & R8 for the mfc control unit, yes?😬
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3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
That is the switch that comes out of your ESC although the 1080 switch does not match a Tamiya one and it may not fit and/or the wire is too short to reach the location. You may have to find an alternative location for the switch and use double sided tape instead.
An example of how I fixed the switch in an alternative location.
Thank you! So, can I say that it is ok not to mount it?
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Ok. So, I bought the Hobbywing 1080 and my local dealer soldered it.
I did already the servos. Making sure it’s neutral. My question is, why is it only the shift servo that moved and not the gear servo?
I have also snapped those rods into the connector.
What is this receiver switch as well? I don’t see any of the receiver switch.
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6 hours ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:
Pierced - You want to change bearings BA21basicly bushings and other #'s ( I think 3 different sizes) with BALL BEARINGS. Maybe 30 total. Places sell them as a kit. Search Tamiya Tundra Ball Bearings. Or you can go through the manual and count them up with the different sizes. Best to look in the back of manual at the parts bag contents.
Parts list looks OK. I don't know if you need Savox Servo's, kind of pricey and power consuming. If you have researched and that is what you want then all good. Depends on how you want to run the truck.
Hobbywing ESC is ok they work fine. The MFC-02 comes with everything you need for ESC, lights, sound, and a vibration unit. Works well with "reality like truck". If you are going to bash with it and make it a hard runner the MFC is probably not for you. The Savox servo's higher power draw might be to much for it also and cause shut downs. If you want a nicer truck with realism the MFC goes right in. To do it at a later date, the truck needs to be taken all apart, and nobody really wants to that. It depends on your plan for the truck? Water proof not necessary either, unless you are going to see and drive through water.
I'm not sure what you need to solder? Be more specific, more info. Most things will be plug and play unless changing battery connectors or something like that.
Hope this helps.
Hi!☺️
All of your reply to my posts are very very helpful. This is my 1st time so I really dont have any idea about this. Not a really techy person as well.. 😬
Here’s a clip of the hobbywing being soldered. If it’s plug n’ play then it wont be a problem☺️☺️☺️https://youtube.com/clip/Ugkxjw7Aivmpueg32k2nZgRPmxM-FqG5aqkP
The list above is the one I got from my local dealer. Not sure why they forgot the esc.
I will try to cover all your tips. The only thing I’m missing now is time. 😔
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Also, when installing these I see on youtube that theyre soldering it. I should also be soldering or that's for experience builders and wants update?
TIA!
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On 6/7/2022 at 1:30 AM, Tamiya Fan 1 said:
Sometimes the screws for the front bumper support on the kits won't tighten like you like or feel comfortable with. Seems some times Tamiya should have designed it to take a longer screw? Even the longer one might not have that tight feel in some places.
Self tapper is the screw you are matching up with the manual. (step 11) I think you know that by now. The other style screw is a threaded screw. Which screws into threads which have been tapped, such as threads in the frame or a nut and should be lock-tighted.
I hope you are using bearings as you build and not the bushings that the kit comes with. All builds should have ball bearings installed while building. Roles much easier and less friction. Much easier to do now than later. Even if you have to go back now and do it. (still easier now then later) Hope I'm not to late on that advise as the Tundra is coming along now. You can buy them in kits, all you need in 1 bag. (Hobby shop or online) If you know this all ready, sorry.
I would do a MFC-02 while building also as it will be easier now than later. The MFC-02 is a light, sound, vibration unit, and ESC all in one unit. Complete, all you need kit. Don't know if you are going this route but thought I would mention it. Makes the truck much more realistic. They are other ways to go but the Tamiya MFC-02 is the easiest way to go. Designed for the kit so to speak.
Good luck with the build.
Thanks a lot for the reply.. I will try to fix that.
With regard to bearings and bushings. I'm using only the one that comes with the kit. Are we talking about BA21..
Also, seems like when I bought this, an ESC wasnt included. I am not sure if I can afford an MFC right now.
I'm look at a Hobbywing QuicRun 1080 Waterproof Brushed 80A ESC w/ Program Card For 1/10 1/8 Crawler.
Would this be ok? Also, when you say it will be hard later than now. In my mind, I'm already asking how do I demount these parts if I want to make some changes. Hehehe
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1 hour ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:
For the loose screw, I have used a little longer self tapper from the kit to get a tighter grip into the plastic. Usually few extras in a kit.
For steering turn buckle, I just use pliers, it is easier on the fingers.
Also the drawing in the manuals for linkages are also in 1:1 ratio, so you can set them on drawing to size it's length.
Longer self tapper? 😬✌️
had to google that! Hehehe
Now I know.. hehehe
Thanks!☺️👍
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6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
Press it on. Note that there are actually 2 possible positions, what I call a single click or double click. The single click one is looser and the joint can twist around while the double click is sit right down and the joint can only rotate. I usually go for the second one as it is a stronger connection unless that will cause binding or stiffness.
Ok. So should I be able to fit in using my thumb or it needs pliers? Thanks!👍




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