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RC Perspective

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About RC Perspective

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  • Birthday 06/28/1984

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  • Location
    Central Florida, USA
  • Interests
    Cars (rc and 1:1), nature, photography, and stuff of that nature.

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  1. Thanks bubba! I just love the way the TF2 looks on the rocks! -RC Perspective
  2. +1 Though I use them on my 911 body for plugless lighting. And found a way to make them fit in Body pins are just there to retain the springs. I put them a couple coils down to retain the spring to the post. Then a ring terminal glued to the underside of the body. I love modifying lexan bodies, and having the 3d printer is also a gigantic plus! Love mine! -RC Perspective
  3. Have we started a USA based thread yet? I'm looking to see if anyone has some stock TT01 parts leftover that they would be willing to part with for a project I'm working on for a trucker buddy (main driveshaft and cups, steering parts, body posts, etc) ; Restoring/rebuilding his TT01 for him. I have a bunch of leftover TT02 stuff that I keep as spares, along with much more small stuff I'd be willing to pay forward. If this type of post is not allowed, please feel free to delete, with my apologies. PS - I'm in USA in Florida. -RC Perspective
  4. To build on the points that others have made; They've pretty well covered the subject. As with learning anything new in the hobby, or anything new in general, there is a learning curve. For 3D printing, that learning curve can be a little bit steeper. Prusa is a good recommendation on brand of printer from my research. If you want it to be a little easier (less issues and tweaking off the bat), stay away from printer clones. IE copies of other brands. I went with a used Monoprice MP10 as a beginner (I wouldn't recommend it for a beginner; I tinker and modify on the daily so slightly less of a learning curve for me). It's a clone of a Creality CR10, which is a decent printer, but not on the higher end. My experience, Off the rip I upgraded to a metal extruder (The part that feeds the filament) Capricorn Bowden Tube (Tube that goes from the extruder to the hotend, Capricorn has less friction) After the first month or so, various issues would pop up with the bed level sensor and print bed, so I would order another metal build plate, fix the level sensor, auto level again, and would go back to normal. Same issue would crop up over and over. the build plate would slowly warp, and the bed level sensor would go out randomly and the nozzle would scrape the bed and damage it. Eventually the level sensor went out altogether, with no replacement available unless I wanted to modify a bunch of stuff to install a BLTouch system. Instead, I went to a glass bed, and deleted the level sensor, instead using the Z axis Limit switch (up and down) to set bed level. Since then its put out some really nice prints, but still is not 100%. I printed primarily PLA, and now am printing PETG, and am about to give TPU a try. PLA and PETG are good for RC parts that don't bear a heavy load (hubs, suspension arms, etc). So body post stiffeners, I used some for a tray to cover openings under the steering to stop rocks from binding the steering, driveshaft cover, etc... I have designed and printed aero parts for the tt02 chassis (posted in the TC Designs subforum on here) to block off the underside of the body, and have tested and tweaked to the point that they are as strong as can be with PETG, but a hard enough impact will still break them; Which is ok, as that will absorb most of the impact energy and prevent damage to other parts in most cases. Sometimes the printer has had me to the point where I was ready to just up and toss it in the bin and be done with it. Though no matter how much abuse this printer has seen, I was always able to get it to the point it would work almost properly again. At least well enough to get functional, strong, and halfway decent looking prints. I use TinkerCad, which is a web browser based CAD program that's free. Though options are limited, there is more than enough for what I need. So while you're experience may very well be nothing like mine, I just though I would toss my personal experience up here for you, so you have more info to look at as a whole to base your decision on. -RC Perspective My thread over in TC Designs to give a few ideas of what I have made and uploaded. I have many more designs than whats listed here -
  5. Truth be told, I popped the cap off one of the shocks to put the spacers in, and closed them back up without doing so, cause I couldn't be bothered with it. My actual workbench is a mess and I didn't exactly feel like cleaning it all up yet So I chose to mount the shocks and set the height adjustment to the point I still had proper compression/rebound, but greatly reduced the droop in the rear. Out in the wild its the same result as using the spacers inside the shock. May not be the "proper" way to do it, but there is more than one way to skin a cat, so to speak. @Willy iine, Stellar work as always! I got a lot of catching up to do on what you've made recently! I've got the next 2 days off so lets see how much I can get done! -RC Perspective
  6. Thanks! That's actually one of the prints I downloaded and printed off Thingiverse. I like how much it stiffens the body in the rear. Also keeps the tires from rubbing the body as much in the back. It's actually a poor man's work around for droop. I had an issue where it would spin on letting off full throttle at high speed that I traced back to rear droop. So I put stiffer springs in the front and remounted the shocks to use the end of travel as the droop stop. Worked perfectly. -RC Perspective
  7. Supplemental post to my pics in the RC Gallery thread, and a holdover until I get this stuff posted in my build threads; After very much durability testing of my 3D printed aero parts for the TT02 chassis on the basher chassis, I feel the added reinforcement is sufficient now. Aside from smashing straight into something at speed ( Waste Management Can), they are sufficiently durable for hard use. The impact to the garbage can was absorbed by the front splitter and no damage was done to any part of the chassis. So hard hits will sacrifice the aero parts to save the chassis most of the time. But I have gotten to the point where even flipping and rolling on pavement in most cases does not lead to breakage of the aero parts. Every situation will be different, and I can't test them all, so YMMV. The ultimate goal is to print in CF-PETG. I know it doesn't have the increased impact resistance as compared to CF-Nylon, but I currently can't print nylon. The possible final revision on the basher, The side skirts are now attached to the chassis with E6000 adhesive instead of the double sided Gorilla tape, And the same reinforcement added to the speed run chassis parts, New in the front new in the back More soon, -RC Perspective
  8. For me, I have a buddy who is a trucker, so doesn't get much time for RCing. So I'm rescuing an old TT01 of his and rebuilding it for him. It's been cannibalized, and the body is absolute toast. This is as it was handed to me. (Yes I'll be making a build thread). It's a shame about the body too. Seems to be worth a bit more now. Though that may just be because there aren't a lot of them left/for sale. -RC Perspective
  9. With the skills you have shown on here, I have no doubt that it wouldn't come out any less than awesome. Hope and a little heat LOL. -RC Perspective
  10. Love it! My last dog was a Beagle/Springer Spaniel mix. I still miss him dearly :/ I still need to look back through the pages to see what other masterpieces you have created! -RC Perspective
  11. Thanks for thinking about me Willy! Fortunately we didn't take any damage from Ian, it turned a little more south before landfall, so spared us the worst. Parts of the area are still flooded months later because of the St John's river; it flows slowly so is slow to shed the flood level. Between starting a new job back in August (Which fortunately pays well enough to fund more RC fun, while still paying the bills), Dad getting a heart valve and pacemaker days before the hurricane, And adopting a 6 month old black German Shepard puppy, and other things going on, I've been fitting my RCing in between. Unfortunately that hasn't left me much time to post stuff, but I have been taking pics and video of stuff, so I have plenty to upload. We will see if I can get to some of it today. I've made some upgrades to the 3D printer that seem to have really taken care of alot of issues I have been having with it, loads of aero part tweaks to add some strength to the stuff I've designed, and some other RC upgrades that have increased the fun factor. Also just found a new, freshly paved spot to do speed runs! So there will be some stuff coming soon to a Tamiya Club near you! -RC Perspective
  12. @lsear2905, How do you like the CMX for crawling? I love tiny tire trucks; My RC4WD TF2 does fantastic on the 1.55 stock mud thrashers with cut treads! I'd be a little intimidated by the Capra's LOL, Capra literally means goat, and goats they are! Not much of a what have you done today post, but I've got loads of stuff to update on here! I'm stuck between a Capra or TRX-4 for my next crawler; Though it would be much easier to do the RC4WD Chevy Blazer hard body on the TRX, the Capra is just so awesome! -RC Perspective
  13. Tire lettering looks darn good to me bubba! I wish I had that steady a hand anymore LOL. -RC Perspective PS - I'll have some stuff for the forum real soon. Went from all the time in the world to tinker, to trying to fit the tinkering in LOL
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