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gavin67890

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About gavin67890

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  1. PS The F150 (TA02) has blue uprights Tamiya part number: 10440378
  2. I’m considering running an M3 tap through the ball joint holes first before assembly. They have always seemed way too tight causing the plastic to split.
  3. Me 42-years old: Like kid gloves. A steady run-in period building up to max speed once ‘warmed up’ (after a lengthy rebuild of a vintage Manta Ray). My son 12-years old: immediately tested the full extent of the transmitter’s travel, minimum mechanical sympathy and it ended on its shell with the steering arm broken off. Me 12-years old: Attempted to make my The Hornet fly and shattered the gearbox. There were cogs all over the place and I had to take it back to my dad to put it back together. History repeats itself! The thing I noticed the most was that with a modern ESC and battery the fun lasts much, much longer. And that’s the point. Ultimately, what’s the point in having it and not using it. Once he’d dinged it, I was like whatever, let’s go! The onlooker’s interest was very surprising and maybe that’s the key to the future. Show it off, make it public and, most of all, enjoy it!
  4. Sounds good. Apparently, RW pinion gears .6 pitch are the way to go as well. Modelsport have them in all sizes. Source:
  5. Re Re Top Force or Evo G Parts is probably the cheapest route for just the idler gear. Try model-build on eBay for: Tamiya 9005355/X10576 Top Force/Evolution G Parts (47470/58100/58107) (Gear Bag) £6.15 inc. postage Or if you want the moulded spur for 74T spur gear look for Tamiya Part 50529 (gets you the idler cog as well). Approx. £11
  6. Futaba Attack-Sport FP-T2NCR I received a 27 MHz transmitter as part of an eBay buy that had sadly been left with the batteries in and, probably, turned on (we've all done it). I was very reluctant to let it go to waste, so I went on the hunt for options to repair it and I thought this might be a useful guide to others. The terminals were coated in residue from the batteries and the corrosion of the terminals themselves. NB From this point forward please wear appropriate PPE, gloves, goggles, etc. And protect surfaces and other precious things. I followed an Instructables guide using Tesco's own distilled vinegar and cotton wool buds to neutralise as much of the acid as I could. I found a dab in the vinegar and the press and hold, taking care to control runs, technique worked best. NB the wire entry holes allows a path for the vinegar to the PCB. I carefully wiped the residue away and collected it in a container for disposal with the used buds. At this stage it was becoming clear that they needed more than just neutralisation. I didn't want to risk damaging the rest of the handset, so I opted for removal of the terminals themselves. I cut the red and black wires (NB Take a photo of position prior to removal) and then carefully extracted each terminal from the handset by pricing with a sharp screwdriver from the bottom edge of the battery terminal. With the terminals removed, I cleaned the rest of the battery compartment with the vinegar and removed all traces of corrosion product. Tip: Remove any traces of vinegar afterwards with a wet wipe or similar damp cloth. I cleaned the rest of the transmitter with moistened cotton buds and wet wipes. I followed another guide from Instructables and using a 50:50 mixture of lemon juice and bicarbonate of soda (also Tesco's own) I cleaned what remained of the battery terminals removing all corrosion. Tip: Cocktail sticks are good for gently scraping off the corrosion product. It was at this stage I realised that the battery contacts were in a very, very bad condition. My first try was a search for replacements, which proved unsuccessful, so I tried Futaba's agent in the UK who informed with that he parts were no longer available/obsolete. I looked through various catalogues from the usual electronics suppliers but couldn't find the right size and shape because the battery compartment is very compact. Plan B: What I was able to find was Traxxas Part 2226, which are a coiled wire design rather than plate type design. As I was out of options, I ordered some from Modelsport. Please be aware the guide from here is now an unofficial mod. The coiled wire design is a good fit for the width of the terminals and fits well in the locating grooves. However, they do sit a little low in the compartment. I had some packers, the type for PVC window fitting, so I trimmed down a 0.5 mm thickness piece into 2 x 8 mm strips and slid these down into the channel before sliding the wire contacts in on top. Using a soldering iron, I removed what was left of the old wire connections. I purchased 22 AWG and 24 AWG wire from component-shop (eBay seller). and remade the wires from the battery terminals back to the main switch with a little extra length (20 cm). I personally went for 22 AWG cable. Looking at the original cable 24 AWG would probably have been fine. Once the transmitter was reassembled, I fitted new batteries and a new aerial (available from digitalfocus on eBay). Once together everything fits quite nicely in place and, most importantly, it powered on. NB It may be necessary to secure the coiled wire terminals with a little bit of superglue or similar.
  7. I have a Futaba Attack-R FP-T2NR that was bought with a Hornet in about the right year and an Acoms Techniplus AP-27 Mk V that was bought with a Manta Ray, but I think this would have been a touch later. I also have a Futaba Attack-Sport FP-T2NCR. It is very similar to the ATTACK-R but it was bought second hand, so no date. The first two transmitters are both paired with Acoms AR-227FE receivers (one of them was also bought new with the Hornet). The third transmitter came with a Futaba FP-R102JE receiver.
  8. Could you post the Dyna-Run box image without the spur/pinion gears on top to show the motor characteristics please? Has anyone got similar info for other motors down to the standard tin can type? Are Tamiya part numbers: 47393/47328/53127 identical for the high-speed gear set? I read somewhere that 47328 was the re-release of 53127. But neither are available, so I wanted to absolutely confirm the before the use of 47393. For DF-01 users, the reason it is marked as unsuitable for Manta Ray is because of the size of the pinion gear hole on the gearbox. See the following link for a very complete explanation: DF-01
  9. I had initial setup issues with a new ESC and an older transmitter, please see reply link below. One other way to fault find is to swap CH1 and CH2 around to confirm that the zero point and range are correct.
  10. When I first changed to an ESC, from a servo-driven speed controller, I discovered that the position of the potentiometer within the transmitter had shifted. This caused the full range of the stick to be out of phase compared to what the ESC was expecting. It doesn’t matter to the servo-driven speed controller because the setup dictates that the arm be zeroed on the shaft at build. I carefully removed the transmitter’s cover and loosened the small screw that holds the potentiometer to the driving stick. Then it is a case of carefully advancing or regarding the full extent of the stick to get the zero point aligned to the ESC. Then the ESC should setup correctly and give full, correct working speed range in forward and reverse. I am using the Hobbywing 1060 ESC and Acoms Techniplus AP-27 transmitter.
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