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About drawde

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  1. T2DR transmitter (2-channel) FP-R122JE receiver (2-channel) 1x S3003 servo 1 pair of transmitter/receiver crystals , channel 1 (brown, 26.995 MHz) Listed on eBay
  2. Trinity GT-2 13x4 brushed motor Orion Method R SV2 19x2 brushed motor
  3. Ok I figured it out. I noticed that the difference is always 0.445MHz, and when I googled that I found an article that said that receiver frequencies are always 0.445MHz lower than the transmitter frequency (it didn’t say why though), and that different manufacturers label them in different ways. That solved everything except the 27.175MHz crystal which I’m happy to leave as a mystery
  4. I picked up a job lot of crystals to use with my old 27MHz Acoms Techniplus radio gear. I tested them and they all worked as expected. They were in need of new labels, so I printed some up. When I took the old labels off, the frequencies printed on the metal casing were as expected for all of the transmitter crystals, but for three of the receiver crystals the frequencies printed on the metal casing were different to the frequency marked on the labels, and the printed frequencies were not ones I was familiar with. See table below: Channel Colour Expected Frequency Marked Frequency 1 Brown 26.995 26.540 2 Red 27.045 26.590 5 Green 27.195 26.740 The job lot also included some crystals without labels, with frequencies printed on the casings that I'm not familiar with. They are: Tx 26.690 and Rx 26.690 Rx 26.800 Rx 27.175 Does anyone know what's going on here?
  5. I'm rebuilding a second-hand FF01 kit, and I'm missing a few parts that don't seem to be available anymore. I'm not too worried as they're just spacers, however as I don't have any reference parts I was hoping someone would be able to give me the dimensions so I can find some suitable alternatives please? The parts are B4 and B7 - circled red on the attached photo. B4 goes on the reverse side of the reversible rear body mounts, and B7 goes between the upper rear suspension arms and the upright. Any other suggestions for alternatives or replacements would be very welcome too!
  6. Amazing, thank you @Juls1 !
  7. My TA03F manual has a table in that lists pinion gear size, gear ratio and suitable motors. Using this table I'm running a Sport-Tuned motor with a 19T pinion for a gear ratio 0f 6.27:1 Is there similar information for the TA01 chassis with standard gearing? I'd like to set it up with as close as possible a ratio to the TA03F, as we find car park races are more fun when both cars have roughly similar performance.
  8. Thanks @TurboRSR and @TWINSET Having now seen that 2008 thread I feel a bit better about it not having a power switch. I was thinking it was broken and I was going to have to open it up and solder in new switch wires, but the photo from 2008 doesn’t have a switch either. I’ll drop MTroniks an email as @type54 did in 2008. That said, even a 27T limit and not having a power switch could be absolutely fine in the F103RS that I’m part way through rebuilding.
  9. I'm rebuilding a TA01 I picked up on eBay and the rear ball differential is very worn and grinding. I happen to have a spare new bevel gear differential, is there any reason I can't drop this in instead, and run bevel gear differentials in both the front and rear? My TA03F runs bevel gear differentials front and rear as standard, so this is probably ok, right?
  10. I got this ESC (see photo) as part of a job lot, and I can't find anything about it by Googling the manufacturer (M Sonik?). Can anyone help me identify it please? At the very least it would be nice to know what its motor turn limit is.
  11. I’m looking for a second hand XV-01 chassis. Not bothered about bodyshell or wheels - I’m looking for a more appropriate chassis for my existing rally body which is currently on a touring car chassis. I don’t mind a bit of wear and tear, as I’ll probably rebuild and replace anything too worn.
  12. If you’re not bothered by staying true to factory spec, this is the way. Especially when perfectly good ESCs are so cheap.
  13. If you have spares of all of them, I’d swap out each component one by one until it’s fixed, MSC first as they’re most prone to miscalibration. If you can replicate the problem with the motor unmounted then no need to actually attach any of the temporary swaps into the chassis.
  14. I’ve started to change my thinking on the GH2 black; LHS and UK internet sellers seems to have loads, but I’ve realised that now I’ve sourced all the parts I need (except body), what I’ve got is exactly GH2 with different wheels and body. So maybe I’ll go with a different chassis type next. But I probably need to finish the Super Hornet, and the F103 and TA03F projects first
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