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drawde

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Posts posted by drawde

  1. Ok I figured it out. I noticed that the difference is always 0.445MHz, and when I googled that I found an article that said that receiver frequencies are always 0.445MHz lower than the transmitter frequency (it didn’t say why though), and that different manufacturers label them in different ways. 
     

    That solved everything except the 27.175MHz crystal which I’m happy to leave as a mystery

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  2. I picked up a job lot of crystals to use with my old 27MHz Acoms Techniplus radio gear. I tested them and they all worked as expected. They were in need of new labels, so I printed some up. When I took the old labels off, the frequencies printed on the metal casing were as expected for all of the transmitter crystals, but for three of the receiver crystals the frequencies printed on the metal casing were different to the frequency marked on the labels, and the printed frequencies were not ones I was familiar with. See table below:

    Channel

    Colour

    Expected Frequency

    Marked Frequency

    1

    Brown

    26.995

    26.540

    2

    Red

    27.045

    26.590

    5

    Green

    27.195

    26.740

    The job lot also included some crystals without labels, with frequencies printed on the casings that I'm not familiar with. They are:

    • Tx 26.690 and Rx 26.690
    • Rx 26.800
    • Rx 27.175

    Does anyone know what's going on here?

     

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  3. I'm rebuilding a second-hand FF01 kit, and I'm missing a few parts that don't seem to be available anymore. I'm not too worried as they're just spacers, however as I don't have any reference parts I was hoping someone would be able to give me the dimensions so I can find some suitable alternatives please?

    The parts are B4 and B7 - circled red on the attached photo. B4 goes on the reverse side of the reversible rear body mounts, and B7 goes between the upper rear suspension arms and the upright.

    Any other suggestions for alternatives or replacements would be very welcome too!

    b_50639.jpg

  4. My TA03F manual has a table in that lists pinion gear size, gear ratio and suitable motors. Using this table I'm running a Sport-Tuned motor with a 19T pinion for a gear ratio 0f 6.27:1

    Is there similar information for the TA01 chassis with standard gearing?

    I'd like to set it up with as close as possible a ratio to the TA03F, as we find car park races are more fun when both cars have roughly similar performance.

  5. Thanks @TurboRSR and @TWINSET

    Having now seen that 2008 thread I feel a bit better about it not having a power switch. I was thinking it was broken and I was going to have to open it up and solder in new switch wires, but the photo from 2008 doesn’t have a switch either.

    I’ll drop MTroniks an email as @type54 did in 2008. 
     

    That said, even a 27T limit and not having a power switch could be absolutely fine in the F103RS that I’m part way through rebuilding. 

  6. I'm rebuilding a TA01 I picked up on eBay and the rear ball differential is very worn and grinding. I happen to have a spare new bevel gear differential, is there any reason I can't drop this in instead, and run bevel gear differentials in both the front and rear?

    My TA03F runs bevel gear differentials front and rear as standard, so this is probably ok, right?

  7. I’m looking for a second hand XV-01 chassis. Not bothered about bodyshell or wheels - I’m looking for a more appropriate chassis for my existing rally body which is currently on a touring car chassis. 
    I don’t mind a bit of wear and tear, as I’ll probably rebuild and replace anything too worn. 

  8. If you have spares of all of them, I’d swap out each component one by one until it’s fixed, MSC first as they’re most prone to miscalibration. If you can replicate the problem with the motor unmounted then no need to actually attach any of the temporary swaps into the chassis. 

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  9. I’ve started to change my thinking on the GH2 black; LHS and UK internet sellers seems to have loads, but I’ve realised that now I’ve sourced all the parts I need (except body), what I’ve got is exactly GH2 with different wheels and body. So maybe I’ll go with a different chassis type next. But I probably need to finish the Super Hornet, and the F103 and TA03F projects first

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  10. Hey El Gecko! That's really helpful - I thought the GH2 had CVAs and it was the cheaper Rising Fighter that had the friction shocks. I've inspected the gearbox now and it's in great condition. Thanks to @ThunderDragonCy's thread, as recommended by @Grumpy pants, I've ordered new wheels and tyres, as well as a chassis and a few other minor parts. I'm also going to replace the mechanical speed controller with a waterproof ESC.

    The major things now are still the dampers and the body. I'd like to stick to a proper Super Hornet body as opposed to repainting a Rising Fighter body. Guess I'll just need to bite the bullet and restore my very tatty body, or keep an eye on eBay for one in better condition.

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  11. Hi Grumpy Pants! Do you mean the Project Ultra Hornet thread? I hadn't found that one previously, and you're right, it has some really good info, especially for wheels and body. Thank you for that!

    I have been thinking that maybe the easiest way would be to buy a new Grasshopper II kit, build it in parallel with the Super Hornet rebuild, and see what bits fit - and if they do, order more Grasshopper II parts specifically for the Super Hornet. Or maybe I'm just looking for an excuse to buy another kit... But a rere Grasshopper II Black Edition will only become more desirable over time, right? Right?!

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  12. I've recently re-found my old cars that have been in my parents' attic for 20+ years. One of them is a Super Hornet that is in quite bad shape, but holds huge sentimental value to me so I'm going to try to restore it nonetheless. Getting parts is going to be difficult though!

    I understand the Super Hornet was based on the Grasshopper II, but I can't find vintage parts for either of them. I can find parts for the 2017 rere Grasshopper II, but the part numbers are different throughout, so I guess they must have updated some things for the rere.

    My question is, does anyone know how much changed, and if the rere Grasshopper II parts will be compatible with my Super Hornet? I definitely need a new chassis, and rear shocks. I haven't yet opened up the gearbox to assess its condition (the TA03F and F310RS have been the priority so far).

    I know there are a few bits that I probably won't be able to get:

    • Wheels - I found a thread on another forum where a user had bought white Wild One wheels and dyed them orange with great results.
    • Front tyres - I will have to go with 53083 Rib-Spike Tyres.
    • Body - No options except repairing my original body with epoxy, sandpaper, primer, paint and reproduction stickers.
  13. I've recently re-found my old cars that have been in my parents' attic for 20+ years. One of them is a F103RS chassis Ferrari F310B that I bought second-hand for about £50 with a trashed body and chipped wheels, that I never really drove because it was almost uncontrollably fast for 16-year-old me that was mostly used to buggies and touring cars. How I wish I'd fixed it up at the time, as I can't find an F310B body for less than £130 and can't find wheels at all.

    Not currently willing to spend that much on a body, not least because I'm also rebuilding my other two cars which also need some parts. I've managed to find a brand-new 49187 F1 Body Parts Set, for significantly cheaper than the F310B body, and some black spoke wheels. I understand that the 49187 is a generic Ferrari F1 body, with no sponsor or other official decals.

    I can't find any photos of what this body actually looks like when it's assembled, does anyone have any?

    Also, does anyone know of any Ferrari decal sets that would fit this body, to make it look less generic?

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