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About CptMookie

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  1. I noticed that as well. It's a strange design choice and I almost think it's just an oversight? Anywho, I am messing with the suspension and I think the front is too light for any meaningful adjustments to be made. I'm thinking weights? Or boring out the pistons to soften the suspension? I've already tried soft springs and oil.
  2. Oh 100 percent. I am going to run some laps with both (when the gear one comes in) and see if there's a huge difference. I don't anticipate much difference. 😎
  3. I managed to get it to 16/17mm so I'm pretty happy with that for now. The next thing is to soften the suspension. I'm gonna buy the lightest three weights at my local drift track and I'm gonna bore out some of the piston hole material (and I'm hopeful to knock it out today). I love the idea of racing this thing against some mugens and TAs. That's what's at my track so far. It sounds like a blast.
  4. All fantastic stuff right here. Thanks! Currently I am running a solid servo horn, and just got done adjusting some things. I found that I think I missed some bushings in the front arms where the arms meet the chassis. That's causing some slop. As for the suspension in the front, I used the softest springs and the softest oil I had (Tamiya yellow soft). You are right on the money what I'm gonna do next. I need to change the piston heads. I don't have much plans to deal with corner traction other than gluing the side walls. I also plan on upgrading with some anti roll bars. My ride height is 24mm.... Is that bad?
  5. Also note: The shocks seen in the pictures is taken before a lot of these mods were applied. Thats why you may see that the rear shocks are not the tamiya trf buggy ones.
  6. Off the bat, here are some things that were identified (the guys at the track actually identified these for the most part). The suspension is too stiff. Need different oils or other suspension, I am hopeful that the big bore will address this (and the shock kit I bought separately) So if you use the yeah racing XV-01 rear hubs like I did, be aware that those already add toe in. This accompanied with my rear adjustable mount, meant that it was WAY toed in. Need to fix that. I need to find a way to mount the battery better. Currently its fine, and isn't going anywhere. However, it does utilize a hole in the chassis in a way that is not intended. Also I do not have an answer for this issue, but I hope that someone does. The steering is... off. I reset my endpoints, and zeroed it as best I could on the trims and physical arm. However it finds a way to drift one way or another every now and then. I think it has to do with the chassis slop. Or maybe I took one too many hits and it is starting to cause some slop. :shrug: The slipper clutch needs to be as tight as possible on a carpet track. A lot of traction meant it was barking at me all the way until I had it pretty much maximum tightness. The ball diff on a carpet track is going to be replaced. The guys at the track recommended a gear diff because the traction here on carpet is too much for a ball diff. I ordered the Yeah Racing one, and we shall see... Also I ordered a set of rear DB-01 suspension lower arms. This is because if you do the hub mod like I did (XV-01 hubs and DB-01 out drives) you will need to dremel a ton of material out so that the shafts fit. I tried the RB7 (not stock version) and those outdrives did not work as well as the DB-01 out drives.
  7. Disclaimer. I have never raced before and prior to this, I have been on a track two or three times. I have been to drift tracks many of times, and I am pretty happy with my results, but buggy racing is where my interests has always been. So when news come out that an indoor track was opening up twenty minutes away from where I live, broke my bank and bought a TD-2+mods. This car (and its four wheel brother) have always been on my wish list. I have sought after this car for so long that I actually bought four or revive-rc's Avante bodies in advance sometime last summer. Here is where I want to post updates and hopefully receive build tips and advice. Believe me though, I am consuming as much as I possibly can already, and this community has been such a huge well of knowledge. So yeah. Thanks to everyone here. Anyways. Here is the build and my thoughts so far. TD-2 Chassis Revive-rc polycarbonate body. Jconcepts Drop Step rears (preglued) Jconcepts Swaggers (preglued) Motiv MC4 17.5. I tried the Tamiya 54894 17.5TBLM-02s. This motor just cannot get up to the speed I needed to clear the jumps. So I took an old motor from my Kyosho RB7. Savox 2265MG. Radiomaster MT12 ESLR version TX and RX. Hobbywing XR10 Stock Spec ESC. These are the mods I have on the car: Slipper clutch I am using the TB03 .06 mod spur. This will not fit onto the slipper unless you use a specific bearing that took me a week to get shipped to me. The bearing number is SR166-2RS. Matching pitch pinions (I have tried 26 and 29 - I prefer the 26) FDR = (64 / 26) x 2.6 = 6.4 fdr Aluminum diff nut TRF buggy shocks The front ones are too long for the TD2. So currently I am using a yeah racing set for the fronts. I ordered front and rear big bore that state they fit. XV-01 rear hubs. You need this to fit standard competition wheels with standard offset. DB-01 universal shafts. You need this to replace the TD2 outdrives. You will also need a large spacer so that the pins clear the hole. I use a large o-ring. I have Zee shorty packs that are a wee bit large for the battery slot. So I cut some material out near the bullet connections. (eek I know. I also hate dremeling out plastic on a new chassis) I also removed the top bracing over the battery area. I needed to do that so that I could repurpose the holes for a battery retaining system. I am looking for alternative better ways to retain the Zee shorty pack. I do not have alternatives and I invested way too much on this build alone, and I don't want to waste a two set of the listed batteries. The adjustable rear arm bracket that allows for more toe adjustment. I think that is it.. There will definitely be some more adjustments, but for the most part I think this is a good baseline.
  8. I'm sorry if this is a common topic, please direct me to the topic. However, I'm getting into 17.5 buggy racing with the td-2 and would like to get some more speed. Unfortunately, I'm at a 25t pinion and almost maxed out on the motor mount. The next thing I would like to try is a spur replacement. Unfortunately, I cannot find a spur that is other than the stock spur (with the slipper kit). I did find a Kimbrough slipper spur series on Amain, but I'm not sure that would fit. Does anyone have a solution on getting smaller spurs onto the slipper clutch?
  9. This helped a ton. I actually bought the listed parts, and I am hoping to see them sometime next week. Thanks a million.
  10. If you don't mind, could you elaborate on what alternative rear driveshaft would work in this case? I bought the TD2 universals that Tamiya makes, and was hoping those would work alongside the XV01 rear hubs.
  11. I cannot confirm this method (vapors vs submerging). This will be the plan in about 2-3 months when I do try to remove the tires. I will post an update in this thread and tag you with the results.
  12. This is actually what I may do in the future. At least once to try it out, but this seems plausible. Thanks!
  13. @Pylon80, well thanks for the insight. I had a feeling that's where this would end up. No problem however, I think I'll just keep replacing them as needed. I do agree that the processes (all of them listed) are painstakingly difficult.
  14. I have read a few threads claiming that the acetone trick will not work with Tamiya rims. As the rims are made of ABS soft plastic, and the acetone will eat away and dissolve the rims along with the glue. I also watched a few methods of boiling the tires for upwards of an hour and was hoping that this is not my only option. Due to the process seeming to be a handful. However, I am not against the method. Specifically, I have a TT02BR wheelset that I want to continue to use in the future. What are my options?
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