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Twinfan

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  1. Cobalt Green is too dark, some info in this thread on paint:
  2. It looks like the SPT4412LV is a lot lower in supply than it used to be on eBay, and also the few that are for sale have different designs - a new rounded sticker not the squarer type of the older units plus the car design on the side is no longer there on all images. Do we think this might explain the issues in centering, in that the supplier has changed and the quality has dropped? Or that knock-offs are now appearing?
  3. It looks like the L2 part is just there to help hold the drive shaft cup assembly in place. You could use a blob of Blu-Tack or similar to do the same job? It seems to rest against the outer shell of the 1050 bearing, the shaft rotation will take place inside the bearing. I'd be tempted to do that rather than spend $30 on a load of plastic parts I don't need plus you can complete the build then
  4. As the title says really! Does anyone know what the difference is between the Kyosho clear and orange coloured grooved o-rings?
  5. Lots of dust in the motor? Can you use compressed air or a hairdryer set to cold to blow it out?
  6. Yep, exactly the reason I went all out for a Porsche GT4 allocation and went manual
  7. The only thing I'd say is that if you want a nice new, or nearly new, petrol car such as an RS3 you might want to buy or lease one sooner rather than later. They're only going one way and that's towards extinction. At some point in the not-too-distant future they'll be fossils and I suspect incredibly expensive to own, run and maintain.
  8. Yep, I'm on the same page as you guys. Love my 1:1 car and track days, but tinkering with them is difficult on a driveway and expensive in parts and workshop time. A single front tyre costs more than an Optima Mid re-re I only got back into the hobby a couple of years ago but I've built and collected quite a few kits now. As you say, it's the perfect hobby for older folks with time especially those who like to tinker with stuff. There's a definite link to 1:1 cars for sure and they make a great substitute IMHO.
  9. There's quite a lot of choice for online RC shops in the UK. I've used a lot of them and they've all been good. I just use whichever has the best deal on what I'm looking for. I'm a fan of Overlander stuff, so I'd recommend their 5000mAh battery: https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/7-2v-5000mah-nimh-battery/ And their standard charger: https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/overlander-mains-fast-peak-charger-nx-20/ I've used these for the last few years and they've been brilliant. If you want a faster charger, I have one of these (a Radient Mistral LED) that works great: https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/302102/
  10. It depends on the grade. Grade 2 is quite soft but Grade 5 is good and the one I'd want in screws. Unfortunately, unless the grade is stated when you're buying you can't be sure which you get.
  11. At the risk of stating the obvious, they don't sound like titanium screws unless it was some super low grade bottom of the barrel stuff! Any decent titanium you won't be able to strip with a basic hand tool nor cut into with a standard Dremel cutting wheel. I think they may have been cheap for a reason....
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