Jump to content

Twinfan

Members
  • Content Count

    1057
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Twinfan

  1. Yep, eBay sellers, MB Models and Modelsport for example: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/rw-32-dp-pinion-13-teeth-13773 https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/rw3200-13-rw-racing-e32-pinion-13t-p
  2. I think you'd be best with a steel pinion. I believe you'll need a 13T 0.8mod or 32dp pitch one (the pitches are almost identical, 32dp is much easier to find e.g. RW Racing steel pinions).
  3. FuzzyFlynn is spot on about the glasses. My wife has a dedicated pair for "mid distance" which she uses for her work laptop screens. They are a game changer, apparently. I use multifocals which are maybe a slightly fancier version of bifocals and could work better for you. I'd definitely recommend having a chat with your optician.
  4. The rear you can use Hornet spiked or Grasshopper paddle tyres. The fronts are the same for both models. I don't know of any others that fit but someone else might. There are other options if you're prepared to change the wheels.
  5. I don't know - he seemed to be more of a Kyosho man to me, rather than Tamiya, and a bit repetitive in his posts. But the world would be very boring if we all behaved and thought the same! It's a shame when anyone gets the wrong end of the stick and leaves a community because of it though.
  6. He seemed to leave us after there was some spat about the main site's photo competition.
  7. It sounds to me like you need to put the Tx back to standard and swap the motor wires. That should get it working correctly. I think some ESC and receiver combinations cause these things, swapping the wires will do no harm
  8. If you're sticking with NiMH, I use these: https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/overlander-5000mah-ni-mh-battery-and-fast-charger-for-tamiya-kit-radio-control-rc-car/?mot_tcid=0c84d21a-d828-4cee-96b2-f7fcd006b23d The 3300mAh batteries are also good. Faster chargers are available, the one above is what I would call medium speed. I have a Mistral fast charger for quick top-ups.
  9. You'll need to reduce the end point settings for the steering on your transmitter
  10. Another day, another delivery. I seem to be strangely drawn to the TD2/TD4 chassis, despite not having built one yet! I have both a TD2 and TD4 in my build queue, plus I also have one of these already in my NIB collection. Not sure what I'll do with it longer term, but it'll go into the collection for now. They're quite unusual with the yellow chassis and springs, and I picked this one up for £150 less than they cost new in UK - I think they were around £380 from memory? This one came up on eBay at the weekend with a low starting price and only a few watchers. I somehow couldn't resist and won it by 32p
  11. You need a motor mount specific to the correct chassis, they vary. You need one of these that look like the original plastic mount: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166649649954 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256005826139 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134727020080 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/183579695704
  12. That doesn't look like the correct motor mount. There's a Tamiya one and a Yeah Racing one that I know of, yours looks very different. What did you buy? Do you have a link?
  13. No worries. There are a couple more gold parts that can be added to the Turbo Optima, plus turnbuckles. It's a pretty hopped-up car already, as a Turbo
  14. Kyosho don't do an Ultima Turbo re-re, so are you talking about an original? As for Hop-Ups, Kyosho most certainly do them. They're called Option Parts and they're listed in the instruction manuals and online E.g. for the Optima Mid re-re: https://www.kyoshoeurope.com/compatible/index/index/product_id/69582/type/2/
  15. Another one of the few remaining pieces of my Tamiya brushed motor collection for me - one of the unlabelled handout Acto-Power Pink motors. This one is unused and from a shelf queen so in great condition, apart from the terrible soldering done when attaching some motor wires. I removed both of the wires by hand (!) then as much of the solder as I could before adding a fresh layer over the top to tidy it up. I now have examples of everything except the old black Endurance and Sprint motors, which I'm not really interested in but may pick up at some point, plus the kit-supplied Dyna Storm Acto Pink motor (of which there's one on eBay but it's overpriced for its condition as it's been there for a while).
  16. Gotcha. Looks like Tamico may be the only way then, unfortunately
  17. Might be worth a quick call to Tony's Tamiya Parts? They may have some coming soon or can get you some?
  18. Tamico and RCMart have them in stock. I got mine from RCMart a couple of months ago as I have a similar project to yours in the pipeline....
  19. Yep, I only use Loctite on motor pinions for most kits unless the instructions state otherwise.
  20. Yep, I seem to recall picking up Super Stock motors for around £18 each around a year ago, now they're around £26. The shipping jumps are based on a combination of weight, package volume and value as far as I can tell. So depending on what you're buying, and what you add to your cart, the shipping price can either creep or jump up!
  21. For us in the UK there's no minimum order size unlike Tamico insist on, so it can still be worthwhile placing an order. Prices have crept up of late, and they're still cheaper for some things, but for others the gap is really not much. The big bore shocks, for example, are still considerably cheaper than most other places. Smaller items, less so.
  22. Another fan of using a Tamiya ESC for the proper, screwed in switch on vintage re-res. Otherwise I use the 1060 and mount the switch on the side of the unit. Works great on GF-01s and other chassis' without old-skool switch locations.
  23. Everyone needs a "fun car" that gets bashed around and patched up - I totally recommend this approach for your TT-02B Mine is a Lunch Box I built from parts
×
×
  • Create New...