Kowalski86

On Road: XV-01, it's one of the only on-road RCs that drives and leans like a real car. A TT02S might be "better", but it's less fun to drive. Off-Road: In my limited experience I like the Frogs handling, it's not necessarily "good" compared to any modern buggy, but for being a very old design it's not terrible. Objectively, I would say that the DT-03 handles nicely other than having a lot of understeer.

The nice thing about the Lunchbox (and most 2wd Monster trucks) is that they stay fairly clean, they sit up high, tall enclosed, and the wheels are outside of the body. The tires will dry rot long, long before they show any wear.

If your gearbox case has the little "ledge" sticking out, you can glue a foam switch cover to the chassis, keep the "ledge" in it, and it'll have the same effect. I did this on a Hornet recently, it was effectively a brace without any drilling nor printing. Otherwise Pintopower has plenty of useful tips.

Curious what makes tbe instructions so bad? I've never put a Kyosho kit together, I figured they'd be closer to Tamiya-level instructions.

I have Tamiyas own $7 JIS screwdriver, it makes their screws much easier to work with and it's even useful for just working around the house. On other hand, I dread breaking out my 4 or so hex tools, vs just using one JIS tool for everything. The M06 is probably my top 2wd M-chassis, as it's basically a small 2wd buggy. It keeps the battery protected and it has a low CoG, my main gripes are the choice of plastic used for it, and the unnecessary complexity in some spots.

You're better off not knowing, you'd have more fun with something from your local toy store.

It wouldn't surprise me, they get spammed all over the crawler forums despite not being crawlers at all.

Here's some insanity for everyone, take a $50 WPL, give it a terrible paint job, suddenly it's worth $250+...oh, almost forgot about the useless description too. BTW, the 4wd setup on these is anything but dependable, reliable, or well-crafted.

That's a very strange spot to crack, it looks like that areas been scraping the ground quite a bit.

The MF-01X is more suited to rallying than the others, however none of them are really "good" rally chassis in my book. All of them require extensive modifications.

These new volumes of Initial D are getting a bit strange...

Good idea, you never know when something marked "limited edition" will get its parts supply cut off.

Some 5x8x0.5mm teflon washers should take care of the play in your wheels. @Ernoman I'm not sure if you've looked into fixing the uneven droop, but a pair of ball connectors from TAM9805825 does the trick by moving the upper linkage forward, and clearing the transmission tunnel.

I thinkTamiya should start making the giant spacer for their heatsink setup again, it would let some air pass over the motor. This was one of my last setups and it usually works on other 2wd buggies, just not this one. I'm really not a fan of the DT-02 gearbox. My apologies for the rear corner view...and the awful pun. Look up @Saito2 hot screw trick, when assembling an ABS Tamiya kit the self-tappers can create stress cracks as they go in, and these cracks get worse with use. It doesn't help that the gear case is made from Tamiyas "PC ABS", which is very brittle. Unfortunately I don't have any experience with the Super Astute nor BBX. I can say that the BBX would stand out, and likely hold up better. Both have "real" gearboxes with aluminum mounts, and I know that the BBX uses flexible, nylon plastic eith machine screws.

I'd look into the Super Astute re-release, from my understanding that model was originally designed to compete with RC10s and what not back in the day.