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Kowalski86

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  1. This goes for all of the re-res for me, either "fix" some of their shortcomings like the ORVs gearbox and offer more parts, or drop the price so we can afford the MIP diff and go drive them regularly.
  2. The upcoming Manta Ray re-release is tempting, crazy bodyshell and I'd need bearings (bearings have always been on my want list!), but I like the chassis. I wouldn't mind a Terra Scorcher either, or maybe a Hotshot. The Mad Bull has been on my want list, but they're currently discontinued. I briefly toyed with the idea of a BT-01, setup FWD with a Civic shell, but I'm not really impressed with what I've seen of it. I may end up buying a different on-road chassis and tossing the Civic shell onto it. What Id really like to see is the Brat hard-body released on proper, modern 4wd chassis, something that could work as a trail truck. We need something that isn't yet another Jeep, Bronco, Toyota Jeep, Bronco, old Jeep, etc.
  3. I had my first real "breakage" with the Exceed, I made a bad landing and cartwheeled it, nothing broke (in fact the plastics not half bad), but I bent a dogbone, nothing serious.
  4. Case in point, this was just $40 and only needed some minor TLC. Its from a more or less dead brand, but I can still get parts from Redcat. And I completely hear you on the crawler scene, usually it's cheaper to part out a "toy grade" RC or a model, over buying a shell.
  5. Blame MAP, if anyone sold Tamiya paint (or any Tamiya item) for below the normal price, they'd risk Tamiya not doing business with them, same goes for a few others in the RC business. Case in point, all of the "limited retro editions" coming out as of late, vanishing tracks, LHS's...Chinese brands are adding to the competition, but not all of them are good for the hobby.
  6. I'd say FlySky GT3 if you want something cheap with model memory and a third channel, FlySky GT5 if you want something nicer with a gyro.
  7. Had some ups and downs today, I tried doing some shock maintenance on my Fazer only to discover that whoever assembled it in the factory tightened the caps way, way too much, I got one off and dropped some Tamiya "soft" shock oil into it. Also, neither my Tamiya nor Associated springs fit on the Fazers shocks. On the upside, I kicked up some dust with the Exceed Sunfire. After a full pack my only issues were the junk servo acting up, and a pebble jamming one of the back wheels.
  8. Then you need $15-$20 for a tiny bottle of glue to mount them.
  9. Yep, plenty of aspects, I could write a whole novel on the price of things, gross upsell tactics, and the "MAP" nonsense. There's a reason why most of my tools/greases aren't RC specific, just my shock oil, and why I only have one on-road car. My only RC tools are a MIP 1.5 wrench, and numerous T-wrenches. Whenever I have an on-roader the cost of hop-ups always stops me cold, it doesn't matter if it's Tamiya, Traxxas, or Kyosho. I'm not really into fancy aluminum bits. 3D Printed parts, especially anything from shapeways, are ridiculously overpriced for what you're getting. Electronics are frankly a joke, I really, really fail to see why Futaba or Sanwa receivers cost what they do (theyre just little boxes cranked out of China like my FlySky receivers), or MyLaps transponders. Then you have brushless stuff which tends to be very expensive and filled with unnecessary gimmicks (for us that don't race). I hear you on paint prices, $10 for a little can that barely covers a shell is a bit much. Duratrax gives you slightly more in a can but it's still $9.00. Crawling isn't necessarily cheap, but Ive come to appreciate how long most crawlers hold up with their intended use. You get the "scale" aspect of on-road but tires last forever and electronics usually hold up. Plus, you can always raid a thrift store for "scale accessories". Try $60-80 for an esc, then $20 for the programming card that should've been included (I'm looking at you Castle!).
  10. It really depends on the motor, with a modest silver can motor the voltage drop isn't drastic, but with a more power hungry motor (more or less anything lower than 20t) it becomes very apparent. My Fazer uses the Kyosho 14t motor and my Stampede the stock 12t, both are 550 cans, maybe about midway in the voltage drop becomes apparent. A Lipo would make a bigger difference for both of them. In any of my silver can Tamiyas (TT02, M05, Hornet), their performance was pretty consistent with NiMH batteries. They might be slow but there's something to be said for cheap motors and a good runtime, while still being fun. Then you have crawlers where they're so slow and use so little battery that you'll never even notice the voltage drop!
  11. Outside of the DT-03s chassis being somewhat brittle and only 2 gearing options, I think it checks most of these boxes. It's cheap, robust, and just "works" once you weight the nose down and add bearings/better pinion.
  12. I drove the Exceed Sunfire/Redcat Tornado for a bit, for being a budget brand that's often mocked by Arrmaxx fan boys (here in the US), its not half bad. It tracks straight and handles decent. My only real gripes are just a weak servo (typical for RTRs), and some self-tapper screws in a few areas. Its not bad for $40 though, thats about what a bigger "toy-grade" would cost. I could go on about the absurd amount of aluminum/adjustability on this thing.
  13. RCs with the wheels on the outside of their body tend to keep their chassis cleaner, when they're within the chassis all of that dust/rocks gets kicked up underneath the body. This is why some "rally" chassis have inner fenders (like your XV01).
  14. If it were my TT02B, I'd just run the stock plastic driveshaft. It's ugly and less precise than the aluminum one, but it won't get grinded up by pebbles (if anything the paddles will just fling them out) nor bend in an accident. They don't seem to warp as often, if ever, compared to the TT01s driveshaft.
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