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Kowalski86

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Everything posted by Kowalski86

  1. You're not kidding about the dirt, my fingers always got filthy handling my on-road cars after a run or two. Before buying more hop-ups, you might want to run softer springs, yellow front, red back, so less twitchy and more grip, better tires will help too. I always run soft springs on my on-road bashers jfor the extra grip, and it's better at absorbing bumps.
  2. Oh you won't have to worry about the kei-truck for this round, you'll have this to content with:
  3. I used to teeter tottering between calling the stock TT02 "toy grade" and all that...after fiddling with a few Chinese-brand RCs I've come to appreciate the TT02 more (and really most of Tamiyas cheap stuff). At least they accept standard 1/10 electronics, wheels, etc.
  4. I picked up a used Neo Fighter with a nice FlySky GT5 tossed in. For an entry level kit it doesn't drive too badly, there's some typical rear motor buggy understeer but it goes where you point it and it absorbs bumps nicely. Also, even though I'm trying to get away from "TRex", I couldn't resist this as cheap as it was. It's nice having a LHS with a consignment area.
  5. The only Tamiya accessory that I use is their "Phillips" 2L screwdriver, which is actually JIS (a rather important distiction that they got wrong). It's magnetic, and it's been nice to use on all of my RCs, it even works on Phillips heads. Otherwise I try to buy from the hardware store when I can.
  6. This is where 3d printing would be handy (in theory), just find a way to scan the body mount, then extend it however you want, or simply print spares. They're not a critical structural part so they don't need to be super durable.
  7. https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/8-srb Pretty sure thats an old Scorcher, which was released on the SRB chassis.
  8. Looks like an old Sand Scorcher, if it were me I'd clean it up and find a good spot on the shelf. A shot of the chassis would help others identify it better. If you'd like to run it, at the very least you would need new tires, a transmitter, and a battery, assuming that the MSC still works.
  9. I use a 1080 in my Redcat Gen7, from what I can tell reducing the "punch" and start force makes the initial throttle modulation smoother. Most crawler guys just swap in different motors for smoother modulation.
  10. Not at all, while the TT-02S does handle noticeably better than a TT02, it's also more difficult to work on. The TT02S is essentially a kludge of different parts to get nicer suspension arms to work on it, while still not addressing the TT02s main faults (like step screw steering). It comes down to how important handling is to you, if you throw enough $$$ it'll probably out handle your XV01 (TT02s lighter, lower CoG).
  11. Tamiya slicks are slippery on dusty asphalt until they warm up, but they're good "basher" tires, no tread to worry about and with the lower grip you'll learn control better. I hear you on the cost of RC tires, I try to have a set of "throwaway" tires for when I feel like drifting or doing donuts, and a set of nice ones for precision driving.
  12. After not driving the Redcat for ages, I did some tinkering and gave it a spin. I think I'll take the accessories off, they're neat but they keep falling off in rollovers.
  13. Tires aside it doesn't need anythingto use on asphalt, just make sure that the rear hubs are installed correctly, they have a one degree toe-in unlike the standard TT02. The only immediate upgrades that I'd reccomend are a non-Tamiya pinion, and a servo horn (or you can glue the stock servo saver).
  14. When I was shopping these, I came up with the idea of painting each spacer according to size and making my own reference chart. Would that help?
  15. Bump and price drop You don't see these everyday folks, it's more rare than any of your "Limited Edition" stuff!
  16. Yup, been there done that, what I find impressive is that you didn't rip the wing off in the process!
  17. The main reason why dogbones pop out at the front is due to how the upper suspension arms are designed, they're narrow where they pivot in the chassis, and wide on the outside. Lots of slop in that area. I'd personally wait and use tools myself, I have an old case dedicated to various tools and spare body clips for whenever I bring my RCs places.
  18. I'd vote Terra Scorcher myself, it comes with bearings, the option for a handful of different pinions, and it has more adjustability than 80% of the entry level stuff that's currently on the market. My only real gripe is the more "anime" bodyshell, vs a Boomerang or Hotshot, but thats not to fix.
  19. They probably cost just a tad bit more too, here in the States, people often buy stationary products based on price vs quality. Note how many of us use disposable BIC pens vs nicer Sakuras or refillable pens. We won't pay $3 for nicer pens, but we'll happily pay $5 for a tiny cup of coffee!
  20. I think the best (if boring) plan, would be to go with a TT-02.
  21. I drove the WPL C74 some more, after working on the front tires and adding brass weights up front. Now it's not half bad ad a crawler, and it definitely fits my yard better than the Redcat.
  22. Same goes for plastic Tamiya CVAs, they work but I assume due to mold wear, it's easy to end up with a few leaky ones. They will still work but your car will look messy.
  23. I like it because it's easy to work on (vs an XV01), yet unlike the TT cars it has metal dogbones, a better suspension arm setup (vs plastic pivoting in plastic), and CVAs from the word "go". My biggest annoyances are the terrible steering (not unlike a stock TT02, step screws and plastic, it gets sloppy with use), and the ridiculously high stock FDR. The stock FDR is good for off-roading and bigger wheels/tires, it's not so great for on-road use, no surprise since the TA02 was essentially made from a buggy.
  24. This, the XV-01 is very unique among touring cars, and you can very quickly turn it into a money pit of you want. A Hornet/Grasshopper takes maybe an hour to assemble (not including the wheels), and there's very little in the way of first-party hop-ups.
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