Mouc-RC

Hello, From my side, if images insertion (from ImgUr) does'nt work at first time in a reply or in a new post, I just disconnect from TC, then reconnect, and it works. Observed this since my inscription on the site.

Oooh! And I forgot to add: I love my Tamiya plugs Yes, everybody knows XT180-TitaniumDeans-AllTheRest is better, but still. "Tamiya Plugs & Body Clips". Could almost be a name for a rock'n'roll band. For a kid born in the RC golden age, you just can't deny them. Fainted hearts, please abstain: you're about to see a top-notch Hobbywing 1080 G2 "downgraded" to Molex plugs!! "He's a witch! Burn, burn the witch!!!"

Fantastic "The BigWig" ! Are these the same rims as these ones? Looks like.... Do you happen to know the name of the manufacturer of these wheels? Put them on my Spaceship Super Sabre, love them

You played well with Mrs.! Congrats for this & the writing was nice to read Now you gonna hate me: I wouldn't bet on these aluminum-profiles based lathes. I think that: - you'll have to fine tune it when it arrives at you. Means checking every play everywhere, tighten once, then machine something, then tighten a second time. At least. - you will not be able to do much more than comm renewing on such a small machine. I mean even with the right tools, you'll lack power I guess. I personally own a 90 watts Emco Unimat SL mini-lathe, and 90 watts are just enough to machine aluminum links for a four-link suspension, for example. Working in steel is almost impossible, unless you can stand 0.1mm passes. - maybe I should watch a video review first, but the way the tools are clamped on pictures surprises me a bit. Never seen such a "system". As @Tamiyabigstuff said, you may prefer sparing a bit more money for an aluminum casting lathe such as Emco Unimat or equivalent. Still not heavy-duty & ultra-precise machines, but very decent for the hobbyist Long story: at work, the (young) head of maintenance bought a cheap Chinese diam.125 - 600mm length lathe for his guys. They broke the tool-turret during the first hour of use. I repaired it, heavily modifying it with quality screws and sliding pads, nothing was correctly assembled, too short screws, bad quality nuts and so on. Play everywhere. A shame. The day after, automatic feed broke: the bronze pin (fuse) was badly inserted in a non-through & non-diametrical hole. Had to redo this also (added a friction clutch - much more satisfying). I may be called a snob, but I come from the machining world, and these aren't heavy duty machines. Our maintenance guys didn't know how to use such a "light" machine, they broke it almost instantly. Now it works approximately, but each time I go for using it, I check & tighten everything. It's an 1.2 kilowatts machine, but in steel, you cannot remove more than 1mm at each time, otherwise everything bends, vibrates & suffers hardly. PS: and an Emco Unimat fits a Tamiya flatbed trailer so well:

Still in a downsizing phase, I took a picture of all the Space Age Buggies. Offroad Spaceships. Over Unrealistic Cars? Don't know, but the Re-re Super Sabre is all what I need. If there are some amateurs of both Nikko buggies among readers here, I'd be glad to send them for the price of the postage (please feel free to PM me) The lil' yellow one works, but I don't have the transmitter, the green one works perfectly & would come with transmitter, original (cracked :/ ) bumper, and an additional (half complete & working electronics) chassis.

Very, very classy, @Saito2 As NJMLondon, I (don't) need a BBX more than ever now!

If I were you, I'do myself a favour, and buy a cheap but new 2.4Ghz system (CR4S-V2 from Absima, or equivalent, but including a 3-position toggle switch for the 3-speeds of the gearbox). For a long time I've been a staunch defender of analog systems, using a quality but old Multiplex Europa 35Mhz for my 3-Speeds, and now I have to admit that 2.4Ghz is simply better. Safer. No-glitch. Long range. You know, all that stuff. And today's technology has the merit of removing any doubts about the possible use of reserved frequencies (Did this for years without any problem, but I just can't recommend!)

Would you like a shot of Padlatracks with a pinch of solid axles flavor ? Kind of Blazing Blazer reminiscence?

Nice topic indeed First for me are chassis. Especially vintage ones from Big T. What can you say bad about a 3-speeds Mk.2 chassis? It's near perfection: Juggernaut? They even put some plastic chassis rails on top of the real functional ones... Quick Drive Monsters... They included some fake rails in the bathtub also... Same on CC-01, by the way And not to speak about an SRB front end... A nice chassis is like a bass man in a band. Yeah it is still music if you don't have one, but something's missing Fully understand you guys about tires. How cool are cool tires. Hmmmm.... I may also have a problem with solid axles also... Tamiya ones are usually just great!

Hi, You're right, Tamiya Hummer tires, 9445529

Excellent, many thanks

Now we know the reason why...

Very nice job! Will you share the file? If yes I think I'll try to have some printed.

Thanks for your support, mates. Tried JConcepts Tribute rims, but I really disliked them. Plastic is "too soft", compared to Tamiya's, and they fit directly on the brass hex. They don't rest on the black plastic wheel hub with 5 holes, so I found the rims aren't "guided" enough, and don't spin round. Or maybe I made something wrong? Another letdown is the brass hex finally rounds everything around him: On this point also maybe I did something wrong, but... Good idea about the Gray Edition Clod rims, but seems hard to find, especially in Europe where it was not sold.

Because I wanted white Tamiya rims, I broke the law and bought some old plastic from nearly 40 years ago. What had to happen happened (after 5 min of gentle driving in the garden): Guess I still have to order some new ones, and do what's needed to paint them white.

I'd choose a CC-01, with a motor-fan on a SuperStock BZ. A bit like here:

Mad Ax is fully right:

Hello, Pictures: Not a professional of ImgUr. Does this link leads to something "Hi-Res" ? https://imgur.com/gallery/dictator-files-b4vqltp Otherwise, here are the files on WeTransfer. Limited time download, 3 days from now if I got it right. https://we.tl/t-VSA3cgY6LH Sorry I'm a noob in IT. Please tell me if you know something better to share this kind of files

Strange design, no E.P.A. , no mixing, no exponential and all those weird stuff we didn't have in the eighties, and receivers are a bit pricey (55 bucks new, but I buy them second hand, as they're mega-tough), but my Multiplex is all what I love: - Ultra-high range - Sharp response - Super nice in hand, with "density" , like in the good ol'days (it's very small, so with only 3 AAs, it feels nice) - Excellent plastic quality, good finish - No aerial/antenna - 50 models memory - Ultra-simple binding - 3-positions switch (for Bruiser, High-Lift, 1/14 trucks or rear-wheels steering with neutral + full-lock L/R) - No digital screen, so you change maximum 2 or 3 times the batteries in a year.

There's always something interesting in your old "ramblings", you're too modest Indeed I changed tires for "low profiles Stadium" ones on the WR-01, which did cut a bit of speed off, for sure. But I think Bruiser tires are only OK (or not too bad!) on the Bruiser or the Blackfoot For the record, I'm gonna give it a last try: - both HPI motors will take place in a CC-01 (fan is integrated in those motors, and a CC-01 is self-cooking quickly, so it can't hurt) and a Bush Devil (which has a quite mean vintage 15 Turns from Parma - don't want to destroy rare parts) - recently acquired a second Super Stock BZ: gonna remove the timing tab on the old one (if this can be done properly), then time it "reverse" and try on the WR-01. If it is still slow after that, I guess I'll give up. It's a nice chassis, but a bit too slow for me Otherwise, I received some Chinese servos today. They had some good reviews including some from TamiyaClubbers. 55 bucks for 4 servos, especially if they're durable, is a very correct price, finally. And it's low profile ones. Every servo should be low profile me thinks.

It was worth a try I guess. What did you use, for cleaning/removing paint if you don't mind to share? Recently I tried oven cleaner on Tamiya PS paints, absolutely no results... :/

Memory serves well, @Saito2 !! Found back the threads... A bit on the angry side at the end indeed, for the first one! Too bad "tamiyatrucks" website is down, though. Wonder how the truck from JAnderson was...

Seriously? I remember I've read that the TLT-1 was "born in the USA" thanks to David Jun, and seen that the TXT-1 was after an idea of Kevin Hetmanski from RCCA, but never heard about the High-Lift! Would be nice to dive into this TXT-1 thing (link to YT) David Jun and the TLT-1 (RCCA Archive)

Today I tried the" famous" HPI Firebolts 15 turns in the WR-01: Picture above is still with the Silver Cans: max speed on 7.2 volts & 18t pinions: max speed @19.9 km/h (or 12.35 mph) With twin HPI installed + 20t pinions: 30 km/h (18.6 mph). Hmmm... Not so famous... Still a bit more fun, but not crazy. Seems that WR-01s will stay forever slow! And I changed some wheels on the old Lewis Galoob toy

Hi, I like the 1060 from Hobbywing (simple, reliable, cheap for the quality) @87lc2 made me try the 1080 G2, which is just fabulous (fully programmable, multiple BEC voltages (if you have high voltage servos) and plenty of other fancy stuffs) From Tamiya, only the TEU series. TBLE 02 is... Not good, sorry to say that, but... not good :/ I've had 3 of the TBLE02's: - first just stopped working, don't know why - second did burn because of a little splash in a puddle (OK, my fault) - third, wires did unsolder themselves (could repair, but what's happening next?) Edit to add: if your pinions are not too large, the TEUs & HW 1060 should handle the Sport Tuned very well, even if specs are a bit contradictory. For information, the 1080 G2 (rated @80A / peaks @400A I believe) on my TXT-2 handles two Sport Tuned under 8.4v, 2 or 3 packs in a raw, no prob' (but there's a fan on it, & it's NiMh power I must say).