Mouc-RC

This, just above. I could have written this (with much less style for sure). Thank you Sir Saito2

Today I prepared a BlackFoot Re-re based "Monster 2CV" that I'll give to a friend. As it didn't get much use, and as each time I see my friend we talk about RC but he doesn't get started... Build it up with Old-School electronics, but hey, we all started with 26-27 Mhz, so why not? Tested this afternoon, works fine so far.

These rims...

Some would say I have a problem with RC tires. Might be, but otherwise I couldn't have done all these tire variations: Dirt Rover?

Too late. I have had this bad positioning of the bronze hex in the hub, but I found out it was not the torque, but a mistake from my side. As the JConcepts female hex is a bit larger & softer than original hexes, when you start assembling the rim on the male hex, there can be some play/bad positioning you can't see, and when you tighten the M4 wheel-nut, you just "groove" the male hex in the rim... Sure it will work with the Araldite, but one day if you want to disassemble... Maybe you should source some spare bronze hexes

Reminds me (a bit) of a Funk-Disco-Bull my Brother did one year ago

Yes, a beautiful buggy Too bad, I have no pleasure driving a Grasshopper... Wonder how a Grass body would fit an SRB chassis... Note to myself...

Indeed, it's a first generation QD Thundershot. These are very nice buggies, even in stock form. Your transmitter seems a bit broken, it's a fact; you may try to find one second hand, they pop up sometimes... 2nd gen. transmitters work (keep your original crystal) the one with the red led upon the on/off switch, but only one trim button for steering. Good luck!

Hello! On my Fighting Buggy, here's what I've done: - small servo, a bit inclined (if you don't incline a bit, you have some collisions between a full-size servo and the steering mechanism - yes, it is that bad) - M3 steering rods + M3 ball ends (OG small ball ends pop-out often otherwise) - elongated final drive horn on the save-servo, to have a real steering angle (made a small plate that moves backwards the ball ends) To be done: move the pivot point backwards about 4mm (the small servo will help for this point): the steering is still asymmetrical, because the upper save-servo horn hits the aluminum bar when the rod is pushed forward (hence the notch in the bar - yes, it is that bad...) Works not bad, keeps the original spirit, but that's a lot of modifications. I'd say that the only good point on the SC/Fighting Buggy steering is the save-servo, more precise that on a Scorcher one) On my Brother's Scorcher, here's what I've done (following an idea seen on TamiyaClub by the way): Small "home-made" plate that mounts directly in the radio-box and accepts a full-size servo. And then I used the original hardware to make the steering work in a simple way. A bit more sloppy than the solution above with a save-servo (because the radio-box is mounted on some rubber mounts), but honestly quite good enough for an SRB, I'd say To be done on my brother's Scorcher, change ball-ends to 5mm/M3 diameter ones (sick & tired that they pop-out quite often).

Hello, You'll need the nut to load/pre-load the spring. Also you may have to modify the body-mount made of aluminum... Overall length and diameter are probably quite different. Do you have the Super Champ servo-mounts already? They differ from the Scorcher. Some pictures if it can help. Also, I know you didn't ask for it but... In my opinion, the Super Champ steering setup is no better than the Scorcher's one. To have mine working correctly, I had to modify it quite a bit. For a Scorcher, I think it is easier/more efficient to make a direct steering system, by the way. Please let me know if you'd like some pictures/explanations of what I did

For me but I could be wrong, BB tires are the same as WW tires. 1.9 in mounting diameter, 100mm OD, 45mm wide (around). When repro tires were available on Ebay, that is how they were advertised (BB + WW). I suspect the wheels you're waiting for are BB/WW tires on HotShot rims. As the HotShot rims are 2.0 in mounting diameter, no reason these tires couldn't fit, with a bit of stretch Please see the Wild One rim below, that accepts the HotShot rear tires (and BB/WW tires as suspected)

I'd say simply: Blazing Blazer (Or Wild Willy I) tires on HotShot rims. Originally these are around 1.9 inch in mounting diameter, so they can stretch over 2.0 inches rims from HotShot series. So on the picture, sidewalls are a bit smaller, due to the stretch. Just a guess... Blazer repro tires I have at home are around 4 inches OD (101mm) and 1.7 inch (44mm) wide.

Thank you very much guys! So I made a short video: Those old Bruisers do jump well! And are really tough, almost nothing broke

Waiting for the highly hypothetical Re-re, I approximately made an Hi-Lux Monster Racer. But kind of an Early Gen.: A A bit goofy, ain't it?

Got a DT-02, the Street Rover. I love it, almost as much as my Fighting Buggy. Its' modern, but it's so cool 90€ is a nice price, Tamico has the Sand Viper and the Holiday Buggy for 100€ (without shipping).

Nice tires on the Dump Truck, Sir Nikko85 GF-01 versus G6-01 race: Super fun! I think the GF-01 is a super reliable chassis. Torque Tuned is good enough for me, even with the bigger pinion. The only weak point on mine is the upper shock mounts, they tend to crack with the kit's self tapping screws. When I rebuild, I'll use machine screws instead.

I like it a lot in blue, and not too much stickers is cool! Well done

Brown/maroon (copper in this case?) is my favorite color for those desert buggies. Well done, excellent work!

Hmmm, would have been too easy Maybe you can check & clean contacts/potentiometers in the transmitter also. There's a few threads in the forum about QDs circuit boards, if you've got some knowledge in electronic (personally I don't get it at all), maybe it could help you. Another option would be to find a working "donor" and you could mix all the good parts you'd get to make your BlackFoot work

Hello, also welcome, Are you sure you have the right transmitter? You should have the one with the red led on when power is on, and only the steering trim, just like here: https://tamiyabase.com/tamiya-models-7/46012-46012 I'm not sure the latter transmitters with steering and throttle trim can work with the BlackFoot (which is essentially a ClodBuster QD, except for chrome details/chassis colors). Still you can go on disassembling/cleaning/reassembling everything in depth, this can't be bad.

Hello, Went back to a 8 shocks setup, finally. After the last run depicted above, found out that there's a lot of stress/forces on only 4 shocks, hence they do leak a bit more than usual, and the preload collars just pop out after a few jumps. Had to use the 18mm length spacers included with the rims instead of "normal" 11mm that 4-shocks setup allowed to avoid the tires rubbing the springs. New stance, with wider tracks: But now I need to upgrade the front steering servo, 6kg isn't enough anymore. You never stop spending money on those big machines!

Agreed, TXTs and Jugg2 do need more power, they're so heavy. Clodbuster also maybe, but never had one. Transmission is much more simple & efficient on Clods, so I guess more able to stand LiPo/brushless power. I'll try 8.4volts NiMh soon on mines, I'll let you know

So cool in black!

That's true. But I'll use LiPos for RC when Tamiya kits will be more compatible (in every way) with this technology.