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About An_RC_Guy

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  1. I was able to get my hands on an FF01 over the summer from Ebay and have enjoyed it quite a bit. It only set me back around $100 total and was in good running condition. I've been replacing some parts due to self tapping screws cracking the old plastics, nothing a few minutes in CAD, a cup of tea, and kicking back while I wait for new parts to come off my 3d printer cant fix . I would say if you have the chance to snag one up then go for it!
  2. I recently got my hands on new 3d printer a few weeks ago and decided that it was time to pickup a project I had started a while ago. This pan car chassis is one that I roughly based on the team associated rc12i and modified to fit modern components. Currently still making design changes to fix the chassis bending like a wet noodle, but I'm getting closer and closer to running it around the driveway. I've also treated my FF-01 to some new 3d printed parts that were badly cracked when I got it and it's shaping up nicely. On a different note, I received the new body for my FF-01 in the mail last week and have the paint for it. Now I just have to wait for a free day from college work to sit down and do it.
  3. My FF-01 has arrived! The car has a nice 17 turn HPI brushed motor paired to a 60A Kyosho speed house ESC that gets the car zipping around pretty quick. The infamous cracking shock tower appears to have plagued this chassis, so I'll be replacing them with non-broken ones. I'm debating the carbon chassis, but I think I'll order some aluminum bits in the mean time.
  4. On a good start to the day I got a deal on two NIB 1/20 Tamiya F1 kits, a Lotus 107B and Tyrrell P34. I love the Tamiya 1/20 line of Formula 1 cars so the more the merrier Meanwhile I'm still awaiting my FF-01, so I went ahead and ordered a new body. To replace the JACCS Honda Accord body, I bought a repro from L&L models of the exact same body (it just looks so good!). It cost me a fair bit, but from the reviews that I've seen and the fact it comes with decals, mirrors, wing, etc. it seemed to be worth the price.
  5. I've recently picked up an FF-01 chassis and was wondering about parts compatibility. I've done some light research and it seems that quite a few parts from the TA02 are cross compatible with the FF01. From what I've found the hubs, knuckles, and chassis should all be cross compatible. I've heard the here is a chance the TA02SW carbon chassis along with J-parts tree fits on the FF-01 and am wondering if anyone has attempted it?
  6. A new update. After a successful day of Ebay sniping I'm now the owner of an FF-01 soon to be here next Monday. It's dons a Honda Accord JACCS body that is in rough shape, but I already have plans to order a new repro body with decals. I've been looking for parts as it shares quite a few parts with the TA-02, so possibly some goodies for it along with 3d printed ones. (picture from the ebay listing)
  7. While not Tamiya related, I did a little work on my Royal Ripper buggy (a Hot Shot knock off). I removed all the old receiver equipment and the mechanical speed controller so I can upgrade it with new electronics to be a runner. Both the shock end plastics are broken, so I'll try to 3d print some new ones. I think I might get some Hot Shot tires to replace the current ones and 3d print new wheels to fit them.
  8. Hi everyone, wishing everyone a Happy New Year! Update on the kit, I got all the electronics in and the wiring nicely packaged. Next step is to cut out the body using my good ol steady hand with an xacto blade and the score and snap method.
  9. Well I made substantial progress in getting the car in a running state, my new steering knuckle showed up in the mail today! Interestingly enough the parts tree for it come in a pack of two, hopefully I won't end up needing that second parts tree in the future... Anyways, I decided that I was not going to snap another ball stud and mess things up, so I bought a thread tapping bit at the hardware store. Just for everyone's knowledge the tap is a 3mm-0.50 for the ball studs and it also appears to be the same for the turnbuckle threads. Once the plastic was tapped the ball stud went right in with no issues. Once I did all that I aligned the front end and putt all the electronics in (yes I know, the wiring is still a furball) and ran rubber to the ground for the first time! The steering angle is a bit lack luster so I might try and trim off most of the limiter tabs that everyone else talks about.
  10. Well I was able to get all the electronics in the car but it's a jungle of wires. I'm going to remove the leads of the Tamiya motor, cut the esc motor leads to size, and solder directly to the solder pads. I might also try to shorten the battery leads since it's just an xt60 connector. I'm keeping the xt60 and using an adapter to a Tamiya connector in case I want to go from NiMH to lipo. I can't do much about shortening the servo wires and such so I'll just ziptie those. I have my new turnbuckles, but I'm still waiting for my new steering knuckle to arrive. Next step is installing the body posts and getting the body trimmed and ready to paint, also glue the tires to the rim before I forget to. I have my new turnbuckles, but I'm still waiting for my new steering knuckle to arrive. I put the uncut body on the chassis and realized I made the longer wheelbase chassis setup, I had to dismantle everything again and flip the rear arms to make it shorter to fit the body. At the same time I swapped the shock front to back so I had the softer springs on the front.
  11. Well I haven't used the stock step screws, but I like the low friction step screws. They're really smooth and the arms don't rock back and forth on them, but there is a little play going up and down that can be sorted out with a thin shim. I don't think the little bit of up and down movement will affect much if anything, but take my opinion with a grain of salt.
  12. Welp, you aren't the only one who sheared off a ball stud. Thankfully it was only one, sadly what was left I couldn't get out of the steering knuckle. I already ordered another parts tree to get that steering knuckle and another turnbuckle set to fix it, so it is what it is. I think it might be worth my time to find a thread tap and make threads in the arm so I don't ruin another one. This won't stop me from finishing everything else in the kit though, so I got the steering servo installed. I ended up going with a Futaba S-U300 digital servo I think for around $18 on Amazon, seemed fair and I trust their quality. I do like the Tamiya high torque servo saver, even though the 3 springs are a bit of a pain to get on, it seems solid and no slop at all compared to the loosey goosey kit servo saver. In the middle of things I forgot to show the super stock RZ motor and the Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount. I had planned to use the RZ in my F104, but it didn't work with the ESC, so now it's going in this. I really enjoy the motor mount since it'll act as a heat sink and allows for easier adjustment.
  13. From an engineering standpoint the adjustable arms are the only way to go unless there's a way to fit TT-02S suspension arms and knuckles. You could probably get away with putting turnbuckles in the rear, but there's not a straight path from the bulkhead to the hub for one to mount. The front is pretty much a no-go because the upper arm and lower arm work to stabilize the steering knuckle. The Tamiya engineers didn't use a steering knuckle inside a hub on the TT-02 like most competition kits and instead used large pivot balls. Noting this, a plain turnbuckle would cause the knuckle to fop around and in turn give you some interesting "active caster angle". The Tamiya adjustable arms are pretty much the only option for the standard TT-02 unless you want to extensively modify the setup, and at that point you might want to look at just getting the TT-02S or a different chassis.
  14. Pushing forward, I've gotten the CVA super mini shocks all constructed and boy were they an upgrade compared to the pogo sticks you get in the kit. I went ahead and used the two hole pistons and the oil that came in the box, I figured it was a good middle ground. I've been waiting to use these shock pliers since I got them and they fit the bill perfectly when building these, no scratches on my stanchions. Another hop-up that I got was the Tamiya on-road spring set. I used the soft on the rear of the car and medium on the front, but from the tuning guides I'm reading now I might want to switch that around. I did end up using the thinnest adjuster to get rid of the slight play that the spring had when the shock was fully extended.
  15. Next part of the process was installing the upper and lower control arms, dogbones, axles, and hubs. I used the Tamiya adjustable arms as opposed to the regular solid arms so I can do camber adjustment. I've heard just a handful of guys saying these arms aren't good and that they snap, but personally I don't see how that would happen unless you really smack your wheel into a wall when you're racing. I used the stock dogbones and axles because I felt they were sturdy enough for the super stock motor, it'd be different if I was throwing brushless power at them. One thing I feel stupid about is that I put the long screws into the rear lower control arm mount without putting the rear plastic guard on, this caused the screws to go into the diff and wedge it. It didn't damage the diff gear, but I did have to use a hobby knife and get rid of the protruding plastic bits. Once I did that and put it all together I realized that I put the rear diff in backwards and had to take the whole thing apart to flop it around.
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