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An_RC_Guy

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Everything posted by An_RC_Guy

  1. I was able to get my hands on an FF01 over the summer from Ebay and have enjoyed it quite a bit. It only set me back around $100 total and was in good running condition. I've been replacing some parts due to self tapping screws cracking the old plastics, nothing a few minutes in CAD, a cup of tea, and kicking back while I wait for new parts to come off my 3d printer cant fix . I would say if you have the chance to snag one up then go for it!
  2. I recently got my hands on new 3d printer a few weeks ago and decided that it was time to pickup a project I had started a while ago. This pan car chassis is one that I roughly based on the team associated rc12i and modified to fit modern components. Currently still making design changes to fix the chassis bending like a wet noodle, but I'm getting closer and closer to running it around the driveway. I've also treated my FF-01 to some new 3d printed parts that were badly cracked when I got it and it's shaping up nicely. On a different note, I received the new body for my FF-01 in the mail last week and have the paint for it. Now I just have to wait for a free day from college work to sit down and do it.
  3. My FF-01 has arrived! The car has a nice 17 turn HPI brushed motor paired to a 60A Kyosho speed house ESC that gets the car zipping around pretty quick. The infamous cracking shock tower appears to have plagued this chassis, so I'll be replacing them with non-broken ones. I'm debating the carbon chassis, but I think I'll order some aluminum bits in the mean time.
  4. On a good start to the day I got a deal on two NIB 1/20 Tamiya F1 kits, a Lotus 107B and Tyrrell P34. I love the Tamiya 1/20 line of Formula 1 cars so the more the merrier Meanwhile I'm still awaiting my FF-01, so I went ahead and ordered a new body. To replace the JACCS Honda Accord body, I bought a repro from L&L models of the exact same body (it just looks so good!). It cost me a fair bit, but from the reviews that I've seen and the fact it comes with decals, mirrors, wing, etc. it seemed to be worth the price.
  5. I've recently picked up an FF-01 chassis and was wondering about parts compatibility. I've done some light research and it seems that quite a few parts from the TA02 are cross compatible with the FF01. From what I've found the hubs, knuckles, and chassis should all be cross compatible. I've heard the here is a chance the TA02SW carbon chassis along with J-parts tree fits on the FF-01 and am wondering if anyone has attempted it?
  6. A new update. After a successful day of Ebay sniping I'm now the owner of an FF-01 soon to be here next Monday. It's dons a Honda Accord JACCS body that is in rough shape, but I already have plans to order a new repro body with decals. I've been looking for parts as it shares quite a few parts with the TA-02, so possibly some goodies for it along with 3d printed ones. (picture from the ebay listing)
  7. While not Tamiya related, I did a little work on my Royal Ripper buggy (a Hot Shot knock off). I removed all the old receiver equipment and the mechanical speed controller so I can upgrade it with new electronics to be a runner. Both the shock end plastics are broken, so I'll try to 3d print some new ones. I think I might get some Hot Shot tires to replace the current ones and 3d print new wheels to fit them.
  8. Hi everyone, wishing everyone a Happy New Year! Update on the kit, I got all the electronics in and the wiring nicely packaged. Next step is to cut out the body using my good ol steady hand with an xacto blade and the score and snap method.
  9. Well I made substantial progress in getting the car in a running state, my new steering knuckle showed up in the mail today! Interestingly enough the parts tree for it come in a pack of two, hopefully I won't end up needing that second parts tree in the future... Anyways, I decided that I was not going to snap another ball stud and mess things up, so I bought a thread tapping bit at the hardware store. Just for everyone's knowledge the tap is a 3mm-0.50 for the ball studs and it also appears to be the same for the turnbuckle threads. Once the plastic was tapped the ball stud went right in with no issues. Once I did all that I aligned the front end and putt all the electronics in (yes I know, the wiring is still a furball) and ran rubber to the ground for the first time! The steering angle is a bit lack luster so I might try and trim off most of the limiter tabs that everyone else talks about.
  10. Well I was able to get all the electronics in the car but it's a jungle of wires. I'm going to remove the leads of the Tamiya motor, cut the esc motor leads to size, and solder directly to the solder pads. I might also try to shorten the battery leads since it's just an xt60 connector. I'm keeping the xt60 and using an adapter to a Tamiya connector in case I want to go from NiMH to lipo. I can't do much about shortening the servo wires and such so I'll just ziptie those. I have my new turnbuckles, but I'm still waiting for my new steering knuckle to arrive. Next step is installing the body posts and getting the body trimmed and ready to paint, also glue the tires to the rim before I forget to. I have my new turnbuckles, but I'm still waiting for my new steering knuckle to arrive. I put the uncut body on the chassis and realized I made the longer wheelbase chassis setup, I had to dismantle everything again and flip the rear arms to make it shorter to fit the body. At the same time I swapped the shock front to back so I had the softer springs on the front.
  11. Well I haven't used the stock step screws, but I like the low friction step screws. They're really smooth and the arms don't rock back and forth on them, but there is a little play going up and down that can be sorted out with a thin shim. I don't think the little bit of up and down movement will affect much if anything, but take my opinion with a grain of salt.
  12. Welp, you aren't the only one who sheared off a ball stud. Thankfully it was only one, sadly what was left I couldn't get out of the steering knuckle. I already ordered another parts tree to get that steering knuckle and another turnbuckle set to fix it, so it is what it is. I think it might be worth my time to find a thread tap and make threads in the arm so I don't ruin another one. This won't stop me from finishing everything else in the kit though, so I got the steering servo installed. I ended up going with a Futaba S-U300 digital servo I think for around $18 on Amazon, seemed fair and I trust their quality. I do like the Tamiya high torque servo saver, even though the 3 springs are a bit of a pain to get on, it seems solid and no slop at all compared to the loosey goosey kit servo saver. In the middle of things I forgot to show the super stock RZ motor and the Yeah Racing adjustable motor mount. I had planned to use the RZ in my F104, but it didn't work with the ESC, so now it's going in this. I really enjoy the motor mount since it'll act as a heat sink and allows for easier adjustment.
  13. From an engineering standpoint the adjustable arms are the only way to go unless there's a way to fit TT-02S suspension arms and knuckles. You could probably get away with putting turnbuckles in the rear, but there's not a straight path from the bulkhead to the hub for one to mount. The front is pretty much a no-go because the upper arm and lower arm work to stabilize the steering knuckle. The Tamiya engineers didn't use a steering knuckle inside a hub on the TT-02 like most competition kits and instead used large pivot balls. Noting this, a plain turnbuckle would cause the knuckle to fop around and in turn give you some interesting "active caster angle". The Tamiya adjustable arms are pretty much the only option for the standard TT-02 unless you want to extensively modify the setup, and at that point you might want to look at just getting the TT-02S or a different chassis.
  14. Pushing forward, I've gotten the CVA super mini shocks all constructed and boy were they an upgrade compared to the pogo sticks you get in the kit. I went ahead and used the two hole pistons and the oil that came in the box, I figured it was a good middle ground. I've been waiting to use these shock pliers since I got them and they fit the bill perfectly when building these, no scratches on my stanchions. Another hop-up that I got was the Tamiya on-road spring set. I used the soft on the rear of the car and medium on the front, but from the tuning guides I'm reading now I might want to switch that around. I did end up using the thinnest adjuster to get rid of the slight play that the spring had when the shock was fully extended.
  15. Next part of the process was installing the upper and lower control arms, dogbones, axles, and hubs. I used the Tamiya adjustable arms as opposed to the regular solid arms so I can do camber adjustment. I've heard just a handful of guys saying these arms aren't good and that they snap, but personally I don't see how that would happen unless you really smack your wheel into a wall when you're racing. I used the stock dogbones and axles because I felt they were sturdy enough for the super stock motor, it'd be different if I was throwing brushless power at them. One thing I feel stupid about is that I put the long screws into the rear lower control arm mount without putting the rear plastic guard on, this caused the screws to go into the diff and wedge it. It didn't damage the diff gear, but I did have to use a hobby knife and get rid of the protruding plastic bits. Once I did that and put it all together I realized that I put the rear diff in backwards and had to take the whole thing apart to flop it around.
  16. As per the instructions, I started with installing the center driveline and both differentials. The front is the stock kit gear diff, but the rear is the Tamiya 53663 TT-01 ball diff. Accompanying the two is the Tamiya aluminum propeller shaft and joints. I went ahead and cut out small pieces of soft foam and put them into the the cups to keep the propeller shaft from jiggling around as I had seen the same thing done in other builds. I also went ahead and used full ball bearings in this kit instead of those odd plastic bushings, one would have thought it'd come with all be metal bushings at least. I secured the driveline with the plastic keeper and fastened it down with some titanium hex head screws from Yeah Racing. I don't know if those screws are actually titanium or not, I mainly just wanted to have a hex head screws on a good portion of the car instead of the phillips head screws. RCmart just so happened to have these and not the Tamiya stainless steel set, but I'm not being picky.
  17. This is my build thread for my Tamiya 911 RSR TT-02 kit. I'd like to mention that I received this kit from my wonderful Aunt and Uncle as a gift in return for helping fix my uncles sports car. This will be a bit of a longer build as I'm still making it and changing things as I go. Hope you all will follow along and enjoy the build!
  18. I spent all afternoon yesterday till about 1 in the morning (so that counts as something I've done today) building this beauty. Forgive the backdrop, that's something else I need to work on
  19. It came in yesterday afternoon, but now it's a rolling chassis on my table this morning wonder who could've done that?
  20. Yesterday I worked on my 1/24 Tamiya 911 gt2 model and got it all primed, so now I just need to go out to the LHS and buy a light blue paint for the main body color. Today I continued on 1/48 Revell spitfire and got it all primed as well, but I at least have all the paints to finish it. Gonna keep on working on my collection of model kits until I get my TT-02 kit, which excitingly enough I've been informed will arrive this Thursday! Hoping I can get the TT-02 chassis built and running before Christmas day, which shouldn't be too big of a task. I'll make sure to have a nice build thread setup when it arrives.
  21. Well in my anxious waiting for my soon to be delivered TT-02, and with my first college semester now being finished, I've been trying to burn up some time. I did some CAD modeling to make a some somewhat accurate looking 5-spoke Speedline F1 front wheel for my F104W that I can 3d print. I plan on trying to resin print it with an engineering grade resin in hopes that it's durable enough. The current model should work with foam donuts, but I also want to make a set that works with Tamiya rubber tires since I can't find a Tamiya made rubber version of this wheel. I've been wanting to put rubber tires on my F104w to give it a more scale appearance and heard they don't wear down as fast, so hopefully this allows me to do that. Also figured out my F104 is out of commission for the moment since I blew through my front tires while driving on the tennis court. I have the foam, I just need to follow through with cutting my own foam donuts.
  22. Hope everyone's day has been going well, it's been a cold but fun one for me! Being that I've been waiting a few days for things to dry out, I finally got out to the tennis court this afternoon. I've never had this car on such a smooth and abrasive surface, but doing as such made it a lot more enjoyable to drive! Ended up bringing both batteries with me for double the fun and got in almost an hour of zipping and weaving around . With how powerful the new super stock motor is I don't feel this car needs brushless power, but in the near future I might buy a HW 1080 esc so I can program braking and other settings. Tried messing with the rear dampener plate and turnbuckles, but I need to read into a few forums on proper tuning for this chassis. After tonight I'm looking at upgrading the stock servo saver since it is a bit sloppy. Thinking about getting a Kimbrough servo saver, but I also have a hot racing servo saver from years ago that might fit the bill.
  23. I let the NiMH pack charge overnight and woke up to a nice end charge of 3200mah. I have the other one currently on charge, so we'll see if it yield the same results. I put the new pack into the F104 and it went just fine. I decided to swap the RZ super stock motor back in to see if maybe the battery charge was the problem, and I can now affirm that it was indeed the problem. Went on a stroll around the neighborhood with the new battery and motor setup and it FLIES ! I ended up peeling out half the time, one might say I'm going to need new tires soon . Also my PLA printed rear wing ended up snapping on the lower foil, so hopefully thin CA will keep it together until I can make a better design
  24. Well I unironically slept for most of the morning, woke up and gave the cat some treats, then started on my F104 again. I took out the new NiMH batteries that I had gotten just last week because I haven't had much luck with them. I'd discharge them and only get around 300-500 mah out of them, so I talked with my dad and asked his opinion and it ended up being I had the plugged in the wrong voltage number in the charger . After that I got the pack down to 6V and then went to charge it. I quickly figured out that my NiMH packs doesn't like being charged at 2 amps after it only put in around 500 mah before it ended the charge. I discharged it again and tried charging at 1.5 amps and that seemed to do the trick. Hopefully I can get out tomorrow and really use that full 3600mah that I payed for ! Might go down to the local community park tennis courts and lay some cones down to rip around.
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