Simon998

If anyone with a SRX is upgrading to the Alu steering hop-up, can I buy the flanged inserts off you? We aren't allowed to upgrade the steering in my race series but those flanged spacers look to be the cure to my steering issues.

I'll take my 5% commission via PayPal

I spotted it two days ago and it's been torturing me since. I assume the offer will be over shortly. Bare in mind that it's Japan stock and will take a few weeks to get to you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175659433879?hash=item28e61e3f97:g:bhsAAOSwZuZkGbRm&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwFYlcmDQXttaUffwIbzn1690z05SFbQYdSspTu4yzTotX%2Fj7Q2WvC9LMUG%2F%2FsaY80uQRbIM6jdmMG9yJcE%2B%2Bnh%2BKfZ%2Fk5xUEVw28mXOTNwZs7PXeyKEtYgxkJn9sHx7HKYthezmoSet%2FdoGkyjtJPVFv9H3JGxlkrCrKowC0n8B0qPQbjaM1qD9GJxBRD3dWE%2F7Z12vjQo8xOL0B68lT2K7kFAs31IpQwLLc%2BYgyA%2B7k25UkNJYZJTFP3CDH90bVrQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4janfTlYQ Bargain to be had at the moment, SRX for £239.99. It's £375 in my LHS

Few tips on the body. Invest in some cheap curved Lexan scissors, ~$5 and they make a heck of a difference when cutting around corners. I used a hobby knife/scalpel with a fresh blade and scribe the shell around half way through the lexan then you can just snap it off in pieces, it makes for a clean cut. Here's a video, When painting, clean the shell throughly a few times over and dry it properly then just drift light coats over it, it looks wrong but just keep doing light coats every 10 minutes and after about 3 coats it will have complete coverage. You can back it with white, black, silver or gold paint to enhance the base colour. Once you have your masking tape laid, you can set the shell over a heater until it warms and then press down hard around the edges of your masking tape and you can sometimes make it stick a little better. As long as you're enjoying it, it doesn't really matter. Your first car won't be looking so pretty after its first visit to a carpark anyway! All part of the fun.

Or if anyone fancies a chineseium one, it's almost in Tamiya blue. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393272639057?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D246215%26meid%3Dcf8b9e79f95b42b993370cf9dc297f0c%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D144135927755%26itm%3D393272639057%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithRevOptLambda85KnnRecallV1AndV6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRanker&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A393272639057cf8b9e79f95b42b993370cf9dc297f0c|enc%3AAQAHAAABQPc3I89H0AQHQHV%2FOlsMl254OIifOGpM%2BBEVlem%2B%2B9zqkiF5v06l0lZvmgOKI85oqIQoVeqzX5anW3c2z8VQG1s2EXcLUko1slSTch6KegK80F7vxNzjrgLeB2hzasxLLPwZXYHYXyy%2BanPldOLIyrZPSWRRUJ462F5pVMTFYVf1zkkU3H%2Bot4SgWB5c0UtA%2BxzWZp2Muy%2FIlsGpcugupZerN%2ByeZl4nvXXmIqeP4xPt2NInJ2ImqUcl%2FAy%2B8lZbcrYv2RGv8Hku242thltcglsoMueUBTy8afpT2Q5Gqmr9%2B1CzurKPsZKa5alLgKZhInmknXS4%2F%2BiDbgLuO5HMn%2F3oF0Q31UslQgXqbTs7Hb6e4TO9I4%2FIO4wQzTwz8ThrxSGLHbgXq8QkHmmjpSHC4n%2FhqqHvVH6TY52ugU%2BKsh6D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675 £6.35 and with the pointed end, it looks to be a better design than the tamiya one

I found the item I seen originally.. https://modelhelicopters.co.uk/products/scorpion-high-performance-tools-m3-0-thread-tap-driver?variant=31935829508194 it's fluted though, any m3 thread rolling taps are £12-15 so may aswell get the Tamiya one.

That's the reply I was after! Great news, means I don't have to buy more tools. Cheers guys.

See that's the kinda thread I seen but with a screwdriver handle, that thread looks completely different to the regular cutting taps I have

Ah grand. I've a few sets of these in the workshop. I thought they'd do the job.

I vaguely remember reading about an M3 threading tool much akin to a screwdriver but for creating threads in the plastic before you put the screws in. Does such thing exist or am I mad? https://www.screwfix.com/p/c-k-re-threading-tool-m3-5-x-0-6mm/59312 - Like this only M3 x 0.5mm I'm in the midst of changing all my standard tamiya screws to hex heads and was going to start with a new lower deck and pre-thread all the holes.

I just went and tried it there, it's ****** all different to the normal forward-brake-reverse on all modes :/ Unless you have to reset the ESC between changes and I was doing something wrong.

My TT-02 came with a Carson 70a ESC with 3 modes on it, Car, Crawler and Boat - "Jumper settings: Model selection: „F / B / R“ forward- brake-backward „Boat“ forwards -backwards (without brake) „Crawler mode“ forward-backward (handbrake)" I think that Crawler mode just gives you forward and brake. I'll try it out tomorrow when I'm at the track.

Raced it (TT-02 stock class). Second time out racing ever. I won the B final and got promoted to the A final. In the A final, I came 4th out of 6 and 3rd fastest lap of the night and for some reason I'm still annoyed with myself. I need to learn that it's supposed to be fun and not ruin it by being too competitive.

I was at the track with my little TT-02 spec racer. I've 2 2S 7.4v 6000mah lipos and one 3800mah NiMH that I had in my bag that I'd never used. I could go for 15-20 minutes constantly on the lipo's without noticing any difference, only pulling in to let my tyres and motor cool. I threw the NiMH in to see how it went, first lap or two was fine then each lap after that I noticed I was having to turn and brake in different places and the car was notibly getting slower and less responsive (in power and steering) as the laps went on. For me, lipo's give the consistancy needed to progress as a driver and not have to relearn the car/track as the laps go by.