Simon998

For the steering bridge under the transponder there? They're about 20mm long. I've pressed in brass inserts to take the size down to m3 and then used a small 0.3mm shim either side. The screws going through the chassis are 30 or 35mm with a m3 locknut on the bottom

I've a wee trick for toe on the front of the car too. Attach another steering bridge or servo arm to the other side of the steering arms. Hard to describe but you can sort of see it in the picture below (below the transponder). I've used an adjustable tierod there before which allowed me to change toe a little but when I was trying to get too much toe out it was bending the screws holding the arms to the chassis. Excuse the mess, I haven't had a chance to clean it since the last race.

I race in a TT02 'stock' series. I struggled for months to get my steering to an acceptable amount of slop, tried everything I could think of. The biggest difference was adding bearings to the steering arms. 4 x MF63ZZ Flanged bearings - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/325225269272?var=514116339211 4 x 3mm x 0.3mm shims Tamiya 54559 - TT-02 Suspension Arm Balls Low Friction Drill the arms to 6mm and press in the flanged bearings, then put a 30mm m3 screw through the chassis with a 3mm 0.3mm thick shim either side of the bearing and fasten with an m3 locknut on the bottom of the chassis (You will see theres actually a recess there specifically for a captive nut). The shim allows you to tighten the screw down a little tighter without it binding against the chassis or screw head. Remove the arm attached to the steering servo and tighten each screw on the steering mechanism until it's tight as it can be whilst still rotating freely. Then reattach the arm to the steering servo. 3mm shims can be used on the rear arms where the screws/pins hold the rear uprights, 5mm shims can be used to take the slop out of the arms front and rear. I used a straight alu servo horn for a while but recently changed to a medium HD Kimborough servo saver and noticed no performance loss but hopefully my servo will have more chance of survival. https://www.thercracer.com/2014/08/tamiya-tt02-guide-mods-tuning-and-tips.html is worth a read.

Kimbrough medium for me, £4.99 in my LHS

Fine to use but I used one for a 10 minute TT02 final once after frying an ESC in the heats and by the end of the 10 minutes the adapter was hot. Shows that you're losing a lot of current through it.

No problem bud, I'm the same. The moment I give something away/sell it I end up needing it.

Are you interested in selling a couple more pairs of the red ones? I'd be interested in trying them, we generally ned the softest setup for our track, im currently running the CVA kit springs.

The open ends on my shock rod ends always get pushed in when I have an accident in a race and it stops them moving freely. I've put o-rings behind them to stop this happening. Apart from that I think open ends are more for shocks and closed ends are more for steering componants

I'd be storing those tyres in airtirght containers to stop the rubber going off, I had a few old tamiya mini tyres in packets from 15ish years ago and they were scrap.

Which is a bit different to my old shell...

Since I first posted I've been racing twice weekly and shells are lasting a lot longer. I've been using a ExtremeAerodynamics Twister Specialé for the last couple of months and it's only on it's last legs now. I've just painted up a Montech Pick-up last week and have started using it. I can noticed the lack of aero but sure it's only a bit of fun. Still got 2nd place in the A-finals out of 14 total entrants. It's been raised up a bit since.

Drill the plastic arms out to 4mm and fit two 6x4 flanged bearings to it then 35mm m3 screws up through the bottom fastened with two locknuts. Fixed my TT02 steering completely after trying almost everything else.

Ah I was going to ask if you possibly fancied a split order to split the postage/import fees. I've about £60 worth of stuff I want and it doesn't warrant the postage costs to me just yet.

I want the 992 GT3 also and paint it the same colour as my Cayman S. Have you placed your PJ order yet @Kpowell911?

If anyone with a SRX is upgrading to the Alu steering hop-up, can I buy the flanged inserts off you? We aren't allowed to upgrade the steering in my race series but those flanged spacers look to be the cure to my steering issues.

I'll take my 5% commission via PayPal

I spotted it two days ago and it's been torturing me since. I assume the offer will be over shortly. Bare in mind that it's Japan stock and will take a few weeks to get to you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175659433879?hash=item28e61e3f97:g:bhsAAOSwZuZkGbRm&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAwFYlcmDQXttaUffwIbzn1690z05SFbQYdSspTu4yzTotX%2Fj7Q2WvC9LMUG%2F%2FsaY80uQRbIM6jdmMG9yJcE%2B%2Bnh%2BKfZ%2Fk5xUEVw28mXOTNwZs7PXeyKEtYgxkJn9sHx7HKYthezmoSet%2FdoGkyjtJPVFv9H3JGxlkrCrKowC0n8B0qPQbjaM1qD9GJxBRD3dWE%2F7Z12vjQo8xOL0B68lT2K7kFAs31IpQwLLc%2BYgyA%2B7k25UkNJYZJTFP3CDH90bVrQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR4janfTlYQ Bargain to be had at the moment, SRX for £239.99. It's £375 in my LHS

Few tips on the body. Invest in some cheap curved Lexan scissors, ~$5 and they make a heck of a difference when cutting around corners. I used a hobby knife/scalpel with a fresh blade and scribe the shell around half way through the lexan then you can just snap it off in pieces, it makes for a clean cut. Here's a video, When painting, clean the shell throughly a few times over and dry it properly then just drift light coats over it, it looks wrong but just keep doing light coats every 10 minutes and after about 3 coats it will have complete coverage. You can back it with white, black, silver or gold paint to enhance the base colour. Once you have your masking tape laid, you can set the shell over a heater until it warms and then press down hard around the edges of your masking tape and you can sometimes make it stick a little better. As long as you're enjoying it, it doesn't really matter. Your first car won't be looking so pretty after its first visit to a carpark anyway! All part of the fun.

Or if anyone fancies a chineseium one, it's almost in Tamiya blue. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/393272639057?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D246215%26meid%3Dcf8b9e79f95b42b993370cf9dc297f0c%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D144135927755%26itm%3D393272639057%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv11WebTrimmedV3MskuWithRevOptLambda85KnnRecallV1AndV6ItemNrtInQueryAndCassiniVisualRanker&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A393272639057cf8b9e79f95b42b993370cf9dc297f0c|enc%3AAQAHAAABQPc3I89H0AQHQHV%2FOlsMl254OIifOGpM%2BBEVlem%2B%2B9zqkiF5v06l0lZvmgOKI85oqIQoVeqzX5anW3c2z8VQG1s2EXcLUko1slSTch6KegK80F7vxNzjrgLeB2hzasxLLPwZXYHYXyy%2BanPldOLIyrZPSWRRUJ462F5pVMTFYVf1zkkU3H%2Bot4SgWB5c0UtA%2BxzWZp2Muy%2FIlsGpcugupZerN%2ByeZl4nvXXmIqeP4xPt2NInJ2ImqUcl%2FAy%2B8lZbcrYv2RGv8Hku242thltcglsoMueUBTy8afpT2Q5Gqmr9%2B1CzurKPsZKa5alLgKZhInmknXS4%2F%2BiDbgLuO5HMn%2F3oF0Q31UslQgXqbTs7Hb6e4TO9I4%2FIO4wQzTwz8ThrxSGLHbgXq8QkHmmjpSHC4n%2FhqqHvVH6TY52ugU%2BKsh6D|ampid%3APL_CLK|clp%3A2047675 £6.35 and with the pointed end, it looks to be a better design than the tamiya one

I found the item I seen originally.. https://modelhelicopters.co.uk/products/scorpion-high-performance-tools-m3-0-thread-tap-driver?variant=31935829508194 it's fluted though, any m3 thread rolling taps are £12-15 so may aswell get the Tamiya one.

That's the reply I was after! Great news, means I don't have to buy more tools. Cheers guys.

See that's the kinda thread I seen but with a screwdriver handle, that thread looks completely different to the regular cutting taps I have

Ah grand. I've a few sets of these in the workshop. I thought they'd do the job.

I vaguely remember reading about an M3 threading tool much akin to a screwdriver but for creating threads in the plastic before you put the screws in. Does such thing exist or am I mad? https://www.screwfix.com/p/c-k-re-threading-tool-m3-5-x-0-6mm/59312 - Like this only M3 x 0.5mm I'm in the midst of changing all my standard tamiya screws to hex heads and was going to start with a new lower deck and pre-thread all the holes.