gkatz

yep you were spot on - thanks for the help

ok will try the kit parts

hi the arm is not a formal hopup but I dont believe its that. even with the plastic one form the kit I ahve the same problem the arm is just too low and not alligned well with where it needs to conenct to. its really wierd... so instead of having a relatively straigh line between both points i have a relatively big angle which cant really connect... surely i did something wrong but I cant seem to undertstand what

hoe this vid shows better my problem: https://photos.app.goo.gl/zmvAiSe8YT6muCTN8 your help is appreciated

hi all; building my neo scorcher all went well until electronics part. when mounting the servo to the bottom screws (1) i noticed that the part that needs to be attached to the actual streering (2) does not reach the needed contact points (3) I am missing a centimiter give or take. is this something that one usually encounter? is this a servo height issue? should I create new holes in the plastic chasis for (1) to pass in? any siggestions? thanks

very strange. https://www.urlvoid.com/ which is a scam detecting site does not find anytning false with this site. but for me I wouldnt put my $$ there... [update] this scan site finds it a scam... https://www.scamadviser.com/check-website/tamiyarabatt.de and this site specifically states to stay away from it: https://www.vzhh.de/themen/einkauf-reise-freizeit/online-shopping/fake-shop-liste-wenn-guenstig-richtig-teuer-wird

Hi guys; so I am trying to find a spray paint alternative that I cannot get where I live. was wondering, can lexan be painted with posca pens? sharpies? etc? (oil; or water based) thanks!

[Build Update] so a few things I think are worth mentioning. I was going back and forth between ordering the kit itself from Amazon US or Amazon DE. I have more experience with US as far as purchasing goes and it was a bit cheaper and so I went with the US. however... I did not notice that the US kit come without a ESC and the German comes with. so half way through the build i got stuck with no ESC (i didnt pay attention to this when I opened the kit). so thats 25USD more I spent yesterday on a HW1060 at aMain.com (wanted something basic that would work), [update] both kits are 58568 numbered but the german one has the "elektronischer Fahrregler TEU-105BK" tamiya esc. strange... I added a sport tuned motor I found very cheap from a seller that looks like a valid one (i actually asked about him in the potential scammers forum but for some reason the post is still pending moderator approval). here is the link but I cannot guaranty its not a fake: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284690042355 all the other AE hopups fit perfectly at least from a build perspective thanks

exactly... I do not hae any issues buying cars from them as the shipping will still be around the 35eu mark. but as for the small things, hopups etc that I want to buy from time to time I am inclined to go elsewhere - accumulative its a lot of $$$ loss for them

80% of the merch do not require any special custom declarations. if AE can do it for free, I am sure tamico can do it for a resonable price I am sure they are profitable (at least I hope) but TBH, they lose a $hit ton of monay due to this... poeple like me would rather buy from them if it was resonable thanks

I would love to purchase from Tamico but the flat intl fee that does not care if I buy a 9 euro servo or a 400 euro car does not make sense. why cant tamico adjust the shipping policy? a 9 euro servo should not cost 32 euro to ship...

got it TBH, i am not sure how I feel about the adjustable mount, it feels like the first thing that will happen is that it will slowly slide away to the point where the pinion will not touch the spur - there's a lot of forces there thanks

another example of what I dont understand. on the tamiya motor and gear drawing shown above, the 64T spur pinion list starts from 22T. is there a reason for that? why cant I use a 19T pinion with the 64T spur for example? thanks for the help

thanks; of course I have read this thread and looked at the drawings. but I was still confused. also, like I said I have a motor mount with adjustability so I dod not think I was bound to the restrictions of that drawing... this is why I posted my questions... (besides the fact I know nothing about gearing). I guess that in order to be on the safe side and not start adventures I would stick to tamiya's reccomendations

hi guys; lots of info here but I am still stragling a bit with gearing. I already am building my TT02B and already installed some hop ups like the adjustable motor mount. I am trying to undertsand the gearing changes I can do. assuming I get a gear mount like so: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Speed-Gear-Mount-Plate-Tamiya-TT-02-TT-02B-TT-02D-XV-01-RC-On-Road-Car-/155318999642 a few questions come to mind: 1. this mount plate has 4 screw design, so I need only gears with these 4 holes in the correct place. this already reduces the amount of things I can buy and also its hard to know if a spur gear will fit (buying from AE - I usually dont get the tamiya branded ones) 2. should I care about the spur diameter? I already have an adjustable motor mount so I assume no problem putting a smaller diameter spur but is the diameter an issue here? 3. there are talks about 0.6 / 0.8 other - I have no idea what these numbers are and how they apply here 4. what is a good spur teeth/pinion teeth combination to increase speed in a buggy like neoscorcher / plasma edge thanks a lot for the help!

i have a big problem with tamico as their lowest intl ship rate is crazy high @ 30eu... the ebay combo, i guess its like the amazon ones? non branded combos. I do not know how to check if they are any good...

eventually i will move to lipo - I am trying to trasnition slowly and not jump ahead of myself - I need to pace it.

hmmm so maybe for my use case sensorless is valid? i am not racing, not intend to race, just want to enjoy my car

interesting - can you share why you chose the 13.5T vs 10T - thanks

if I bumped the price a little. i can see : https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/combo-special/products/quicrun-10bl60-sensored-esc-combo?variant=25753352584 can it be ran with NimH? is this the "best" deal for what it provides from a branded company? maybe you have other suggestions? thanks

amazon has many combos of non branded stuff or less known stocker brands for example goolRC: https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Brushless-Upgrade-Waterproof-3300KV/dp/B095GNR1N2/ref=sr_1_23?crid=3CKC9S8DLGZS4&keywords=540+brushless+motor+esc+combo&qid=1675760640&sprefix=540+brushless+motor+esc+combo%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-23 i have no idea if its good or not i can probably look for reviews but there are plenty like these there...

Hi all; looking for a brushelss motor and esc to up my speed on the stock tamiya neo scorcher (silver can). I only want to replace motor and esc (keep my nimh battery for now) my criteria is simple: more speed (prefferably a lot more but the car should still hold), longer run times (so less batter drain), easy on the pocket (i want something up to 60usd range if thats possible), brand motor? (i am not sure i need a branded one), sonsored? (prefferably) i think thats it i am not sure if there exists a motor that fits my needs, BTW, I am a hobbyist not a racer... if I have a 150$ car so I dont think putting more that 50-60USd on this combo makes sense... thanks for your help!

Hi just got the dumbo RC 30$ transmitter. it would take some time to start working with it as I need to build the car kit first. but one thing I noticed is that the wheel travel is super short (short travel to the right and to the left until the wheel stops). I am not sure if this is how most transmiters are but I would like to know if this is something to take into consideration for my next transmitter purchase. how does the travel affects driving?. is a short travel better? worse? just a matter of preference? thanks!

@Willy iine these pictures are so nice.... one of the best i have seen

Hi guys; I have to say, I really really like the optima mid. I was wondering how fun it is to build? and maybe how it compares, building wise, to something like the tamiya avante 2011 thanks!