gkatz
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Posts posted by gkatz
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hi all
I have read that in order to convert from kv to rpm the math is 1000kv motor with a 2s (7.4v) battery will give 7400rpm.it the math the same for nimh? so that a 7.2v nimh will provide 7200rpm (for 1000kv)?
thanks
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hi all;
is there a timeline where a car is considered vintage?
what is the criteria?
would a car that came out in the early 2000 considered vintage?
is it only looks that determine? (is bbx vintage for example?)
many companies, like schumacher, have a timeline of 4wd cars dating to the 80s i think and continuing to this day. so where is the cutoff vintage/not vintage date?
your thoughts are welcomed...
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86,
a new tamiya fox made its way form the US to me with a friend...
a thundershot came a year or 2 later from the UK...
almost 40 years later i found myself here
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Hi guys;
is there a shop that sells tamiya PS spray cans in NYC?the tamiya usa site store locator is useless....
thanks! -
i am not a lipo guy. it simply is not for me. I want to buy a battery and forget about its maitanance.
is there anything out there that will provide more juice then the nimh but will not require any sort of maitanance (like nimh) ?
10x-
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@scoobybooster i messaged you
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hi all
I have noticed something I was wondering about.in the optima mid rere there is an instruction that I assume is not mandatory that states to use silicon oil inside the differential.
I am not sure if this is instead of grease or together with grease.
it has 2 references in the manual (see pics below),
can someone comment about this? why is it even there? i have seen 2 builds online, one that uses just grease and one that uses grease and in the voice over states that he used solicon oil.
i was wondering if anyone can comment on this.
thanks
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10 hours ago, Anthroxoid said:
You cannot go wrong with all Wiha or Wera tools, though I’ve found that using their offerings for specialty drivers particularly in smaller sizes are worth the cost. Grab yourself a silicone assembly tray with tool holes, or make one for organizing tools vertically on your bench, then grab any of the variously branded aluminum handled hex drivers. Similarly, the generic nut driver sets are fantastic to have alongside those and they’re hardened well enough for dozens of builds. You won’t see quite the longevity that your Wiha or Wera drivers will lend but it really is much more affordable for a pit or bench set of gear.
spend a few bucks on small vise-grip or other quality locking jaw plier, very crucially you must invest in a widely varied surgical tweezer assortment, and similarly, the broadest range of X-Acto knife box asst. plus a pack of 100 #11 blades. A few smaller chisels from Marples are really handy for paring spru in tandem with a high quality flush nip. Also add in the finest needle nose plier and a baby slip jaw plier.
For body work a pin vise with loads of different bits from twist bits to rat tail files is a must-have. Next, spend the forty dollars on a low-angle block plane from Stanley or another good hand plane manufacturer. I always make my final dressing of straight edges of polycarbonate and ABS shells using the block plane. It must be kept razor sharp, and for smaller adjust,ent a 2-3” long hobby plane or bullnose plane can aid if you’re a perfectionist when it comes to working your models.
Naturally, pit parts and tool organization is a huge aspect of our hobby so find some good parts organizers on Amazon or a home improvement store. I prefer the style with removable clear bins that are also held captive one the case is closed—about briefcase sized. Any small tackle box or top chest is nice for a pit kit giving you the deep bay for spares and precious items stowed in servo boxes. You can make an insert for your driver sets in one billion different ways, though the top-opening style of tool case can be sweet if you’re on stable surfaces, safe from running kids or pets. If not, go with a three or four-drawer top chest and add a drawer closure tab to each level. Make your inserts as needed and this will greatly aid in keeping one’s sanity.
Here are my favorite parts organizers available online here. They’re really ideally sized for most everything in our hobby. The longer boxes can also hold driver sets, though I’ve found that I need three of these cases to keep a dedicated bin for each vehicle’s spares whilst also serving as general organizer for anything from motors to fans to XT-90 sets, etc.
Precision Tweezers. That’s the set I like and is also likely found under various brands. If you’re doing any home repair with electrical you may want heavier insulation but these are very nice for fin hobby and small electronics work.
A good X-Acto knife assortment.
Don’t forget to get a Tamiya hobby tool to complement your X-Acto set. It is partially redundant but the fine-tooth blades and longer handle can be rather helpful for odd detailing cuts and adjustments down in tight spots.
A timeless low-angle hand plane from Stanley. That sweetheart plane is extremely useful for all forms of fine planing needs. If you even dabble in woodworking you’ll be astonished thst you can now plane end grain with ease. Nice investment, and if only working on hobby parts perhaps get a rip-off for a few bucks less.
You’ll be fine in metric on your AE cars.
—XOID
PS—there are so many other things that I can think of essential but you’re already making really nice models, so I’m assuming thst you’ve got your painting and masking gear already covered, and the silicone mat and tool chests are really subjective so I’d shop around for both as well as cutting mats suitable for your workspace.
Lastly, eyes struggle with tiny parts so I use a desktop magnifying lamp despite my shop being very brightly illuminated. I find that the gooseneck is rather useful for viewing small assemblies using both hands freely. There are quite a few shops making these as well. Complement that with a flip-up magnifying visor if not already in your inventory. A tiny parts bin should likewise also be added in suitable quantity to your tool chest for standard hex head spares, odd clips, spacers, washers, and so forth.
It’s fun getting setup! It’s like a hobby inside of our hobby so take your time and add nice things as needed so that you’re only picking up an Allen key at the rarest moments.
Did I mention a good fiskars small scissor assortment is great for the bodywork?
—XOID
@Anthroxoidi believe your links do not work...
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thanks everyone fo the comments. they were so cheap and tiny i couldnt resist and bought a few.
they will be used exclusively for driver figures.
thanks again
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Hi all
Just bumped into these (see attached
) with a low price and nice tiny cans. They were tagged as modeling colors.
Anyone knows this brand and can comment?
I intend to use them for the driver figure in an rc car.
Thanks
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If you are patient, Tamiya will re re. No worries 😁
Even kyosho gets it
It's a shame that other brands rere less often.
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BTW, you can hopup the tt02b very easaly and cheaply from aliexpress. full bearings and all the aluminum you want and a fraction of the price of the official hopups.
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i got lucky and a friend from NYC brought me 2 cans. TBH i dont undersatnd why getting this on the plane in a suitcase is ok for via mail its not ok.
i need to be really stingy using them.
from all you guys experience, would a single white can be enough for a single car? for instance the optima mid?i need to know how to ration my usage
10x in advance. -
this is funny.
I have never seen a person nick-named "JUNK MONKEY" caliming someone else is a scammer
(no offense @junkmunki )
FYI, there is a scamming forum in TC. you can find it here: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/forum/26-suspicious-traders/ -
just a small note.
i have a new JX 4409MG and Injora injs014 low profile budget servos which I put to a speed test. both pretty similar speed wise but the jx is super jittery and seems super unstable as oposed to the injora which is super smooth and does exactly what is expected...
just my small test and experience...
and so, no JX for me in the future. -
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ebay has parts, pre onwed cars and even a NIB/.
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13 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
There you go.
Or in this example, an UBEC is used as the power supply.
I will just hook up a 2S directly like my MC8 video above.
thanks for the help
I ended up buying a simple tester that comes with AA battery connector. easier for me.
here is the link: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32901191834.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.f5591802okkuUg (bundle 1)
i have some cheap servos I want to test maybe do a short youtube on that: injora, surpasshobby and JX -
19 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
Note that no receiver or transmitter was used in those tests. A servo tester was used and can be seen at the top of some of the video shots.
can this blue thing hook directly to a ESC for power? for example HW1060?
i dont recognize the connector...
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19 hours ago, alvinlwh said:
Note that no receiver or transmitter was used in those tests. A servo tester was used and can be seen at the top of some of the video shots.
I have a ToolkitRC MC8 that can also do the same thing.
the small blue tester is cool and super cheap so I think I have found what I needed.
thanks
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40 minutes ago, Tamiyastef said:
I don't really see a vid below but maybe that's just me.
If it's to test the servo speed and not the radio signal I would work with a Y cable so both servo's get their signal from the same channel.
my god forgot to paste the vid
here it is: not sure what a y cable is. like a splitter such that all servos sit on the same channel? can you provide a link. thanks!-
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thats a crazy low price.
to bad I dislike this chasis witht he internal shocks... and the looks-
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hi all
was wondering how tests like the one in the vid below is done?
is each servo connected to a diffrerent channel? if its a different channel I will need to operate 2+ channels to start the speed test for the 2+ servos right?
is it possible to have all operated by the same "button" in the transmitter?thanks
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) with a low price and nice tiny cans. They were tagged as modeling colors.
if my life and my wife will allow - this is my dream 4 car collection
in Other makes
Posted
almost a year has past since I started this thread
my dream 4WD 3 car collection stays the same. At this time, 2 are super easy to get (optima mid and avante) and 1 (the xls), if you are not a purist, seems like a procat with some modifications would yield an xls clone.
the only thing I must change is the 2WD choice. I guess I do not have a solid opinion on what would my perfect 2WD would be...
if I had to pick a 2WD car today, maybe the new rc10 JH Edition? but again, I assume my mind has not settled yet. maybe I am just a 4WD kind of guy