gkatz
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Posts posted by gkatz
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Hi all
I had 2 cars on my radar that are my holly grail.
The 2011 avante and the optima mid
The mid was easy to get from last year's re re.
The 2011 avante is probably out of stock everywhere and has some listings on ebay for double to triple the og price.
The black avante is not for me and I don't want to buy it and then start putting other body paint and search for the yellow wheel etc.
So, in short, it seems to me like Tamiya likes to have some sort of avante in stock all the time.
What are the chances of a 2011 re re re? Based on official info, inside info or other info you guys have?
Or is your guess as good as mine....
10x
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you guys would not believe the air loops I am trying to get a spray can
I ran out of options I think - I simply cant get them because they cant go on a plain...
I am now trying to learn how to airbrush on youtube
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@Willy iine @smirk-racing and any one else interested
I undertand the wing in the kit come pre-colored? (white)
if yes, can you please state which tamiya color (PS spray cans) match the best? there are multuple shades of white in the spray cans.
thanks!
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On 12/2/2023 at 7:27 PM, alvinlwh said:
I am in the same situation. Regular mail will not carry spray cans or lithium batteries. And with spray cans, it is very obvious what is inside the package.
crap - order was canceled by seller
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28 minutes ago, Willy iine said:
@gkatz One thing to remember is that stores are also monitoring their inventory levels, so it's really up to you, but I would just stick with the 1060 and your Tamiya SuperStock motors for now. I run the 1060 with the Tamiya BZ on a few of my cars (XV01, Egress, etc etc) and they work just fine.. and for me, plenty quick.
Are you okay with soldering? Because sometimes you may need to extend the wires. I usually just put a new bullet connector (Tamiya's snap connector) on a new pair of motor wires and replace them completely when I can't reach the ESC.
never soldered in my life but i think its high time i do it
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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:
I don't race so I run mostly NiMH on all cars expect for those that cannot fit the standard sizes, or the chassis is just too heavy to start. They are a mix of brushed and brushless setups. Brushless is very efficient so you will get longer run times vs brushed and more torque too. Just need to gear it very low vs brushed motor setup.
Only needing to maintain (mostly) the bearing oil on brushless setup is a huge win. Brushed motors are great for slower cars imho as they have that very analog throttle modulation, given one uses the right ESC like the 1060's.
Especially on a car like the rere MID, I would only consider brushless setup (LeMans 240S/Gold)
thanks for help
sadly I cannot afford to by the LeMans 240S/Gold - at this point in time its a little on the expensive side for me... but for sure its a viable upgrade at a certain point...
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1 hour ago, Willy iine said:
It's the commutator that you need to clean (using a lathe) to keep those mod motors running at peak performance. Brushes do wear, but it's really the comm's condition that determines how well the motor will run. The comm should be a clean copper color. One can 'clean' the surface using those eraser like cleaners, but like brake discs on a real car, the surface needs to be cut to flatten (and true) them for max contact with the brushes.
After you cut the comm (using a lathe) I check the condition of the brush face that make contact with the comm and decide whether to clean them or just replace them entirely. I still have a bag full of brushes from the late 90's.
Like mentioned on my other posts, if you want consistent pristine performance with minimal maintenance, you will want to run brushless setup. Brushed mod motors, imho, should not be sold these days as I don't think many places sell comm lathes any more.. folks can't maintain them properly ending up with an under performing car, or wasting money tossing them out after 40 or so runs as they are too slow with gunked up comms.
thanks so its HW1060+sporttined for me or what brushless setup would you suggest that will not break the bank? but is reliable and works well? (and prefferably be fast with a Nimh)
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thanks @smirk-racing @Willy iine
i think from your options and my basic knowledge I can probably start with a HW1060 and a jx low profile servo JX Servo PDI-4409MG assuming its ok for the mid. I can alway upgrade if needed in a later stagethe folks at amain suggested a reedy 40USD esc but TBH, is there any reason not to get a HW1060 at half the price?
the engine will have to probably be a sport tuned for starters....
it will take some time for all the parts to arrive so I will probably start building only "next year"... -
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Hi all;
I think I am a litle confused about brushed motors.
back in the day I use a technigold and it was the pinacle of tamiya engines
today, there seem to be many charestaristics such as:
-open / closed can
- timing adjustable
- rebuildable
-some motor look completey closed (is this the meaning of sealed) like: (https://tamiyabase.com/parts/1533)
so look like the top os opened:
in the opened ones some are labeled as maitanance free (like this one above https://tamiyabase.com/parts/5293)
and some as maitanance rebuildable like the below (https://tamiyabase.com/parts/14780):
so I am a little confused.
seems like for the closed ones there is no one with RPM that exceeds 20K- not sure why
for the superstock ones. do I actually need to clean them all the time? do I need to replace brushes etc?
thanks!
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hi all
I have clicked the purchase button on the optima mid 22
are there things that are not in the box? do i need oil,grease etc or there's enough in the kit?
i am also looking for a servo that fits well the performs well (but not above 50$). there are so many options i have no idea what to take. for my tamiya I took a crappy one from aliexpress and it doesn work well IMO.
10x!
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Hi all;
assuming I am using NiMH batteries (yes yes I know). does using a brushless motor setup with it makes sense as oposed to using a brushed setup?
thanks?
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hmmm a silver can will get you around 15K RPM give or take.
I would like to at least pass the 20K RPM mark (but with closed can
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6 minutes ago, Andreas W said:
I have no experience with it myself, but based on what I have seen in the vids from @Kai City RC the Kyosho G15 may be a good alternative. It is a closed can, sees quick and is cheap.
just to make sure regarding this: Le Mans motor (Brush.30turn) 37021
it does not meet my criteria because its considered an open can? (hard for me to understand which is which)
10x -
hi all;
continuing the original question.,
I undertand that there are closed can motors and open can. up until now i only had closed can. i am not the guys to open a motor, clean it, replace brushes (or whtever you usually do with open cans). I think some of the recoomendation were reffering to open can motors... but i just want to put the motor on and forget its there.
in that case, what would my options be for a fast motor? (faster than a sports tuned tamiya but still closed like it)
thanks!
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I have put down an order for some spray cans. Where I'm from no one carries these and importing sprays is against security regulations so most store don't ship them internationally. Found an eBay seller that will and hoping for the best
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@Willy iine these good looking tires you have on your mids. Can you provide a link to them? I believe the kit come with a lot more spiky ones?
Also for all optima lovers:
What are your thoughts regarding mid vs turbo mid vs turbo mid se?
Is it worth chasing after the last 2(assuming I have none of the 3)? Only the mid is in stock (or re re'ed. I don't have enough experience to tell)
Found this interesting link btw
https://www.kyosho-optima.com/midse.html
10x!
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hi all
i have a 6 year old trying to play with my neo schorcher and having a lot of issues with my transmitter size...
I am using a cheap dumboRC model that is way to big to fit a 6 year old kid hand.
any suggestions? a really small transmitter with wheel or even a small square , 2 channel old style one.
as long as a 6 year old can use it...
thanks!
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BTW, what are translucent tamiya colors for? r they as the name suggest? so a single layer would keep the color see though? when would u use this variant?
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Hi all
what are the base paints (from the tamiya PS ine ) you belive one should own: black? white? clear? and why...i am asking because I have seen, for example, people online putting the one coat of the color (for example blue) and then "enforcing it" with another color of white/black
thanks in advance?
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13 hours ago, smirk-racing said:
I run this motor: https://www.yeahracing.com/hackmoto-v2-13t-540-brushed-motor-mt-0012-00056715
Supposedly 34k RPM. Need to measure that and see how real that is.
Just got my mid up and running for test runs on the street, haven't GPS'd it yet, but it feels slower than I'd like. I don't intend to drive it a lot (let alone bash it hard) but I do want it to show itself well when I drive it once in a while. I am running the stock pinion right now and the next steps for me are:
- get out the GPS and temp gun
- increase the pinion a few teeth (measure speed & temps)
- increase timing (measure speed and temps)
I don't need it to be a brushless rocket (I have plenty of those) but the current speed is just too slow (I am guessing 25ish MPH just based on eyeballing it).
Thanks @Willy iine for the tips on the brushed motors... I don't intend to drive this even 5 times a year, so I think it will be ok without too much maintenance.
please do share the outcome...
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2 hours ago, Willy iine said:
@gkatz Just a note that mod brushed motors require a lathe to maintain the comm in pristine condition. Otherwise the motor will loose output over time.. like by the 10th run there is measurable loss in performance even for bashing.. by the 20th run you will probably notice your car is not traveling as fast as when the motor was new. I use to cut comms after every 2-3 runs while racing.
That said, I use Kyosho's G14L brushed motors ($25?) on 4 or 5 o my Scorpions/Beetle. They're a tad slower than Kyosho's LeMans 19.5BL, but not a dog at all. They're quick enough to make the vintage rere lively. The fixed can motors usually have a longer life than mod motors as they use stiff brushes and a lot simpler design.
With a 2S LiPo I am sure they're plenty fast for your non-racing bashing needs. They're the 550 motors that come in the FazerMk2's. Just thought I'd toss that into the mix. Have fun with your MID! 👍
My MIDs run LeMans 240S 15.5BL and 240Gold 13.5BL.
currently I am just dreaming and calculating costs
BTW, this is the second time I see your photo of the Trio and its jaw dropping...
are there any hop-ups you believe are a must? or its perfect as it is?-
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25 minutes ago, Twinfan said:
I've got an LRP 14T motor lined up for mine:
thats a very high RPM for a small price (2 times the spots tuned of tamiya and 3 time almost the lemance)
i was not aware of this manufacturer - is it a well known brand? -
Hi all;
was wondering which brushed motor you would put on an optima mid.I would like some speed... it seems like the lemance brushed is not that fast. the tamiya sport tuned should be faster and I feel like its blasphemy to put a tamiya motor on a kyosho.
so if you go brushed. which will you choose? (for a hobbyist who runs a car 1-2 a month only and not racing but likes speed and torque)
10x
Odds of a 2011 avante re re re
in General discussions
Posted
I hope they don't count the black one as something that will postpone the 2011 one
keeping my fingers crossed 🤞
I need the camloc yellow wheels on my shelf .