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gkatz

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Posts posted by gkatz

  1. 2 hours ago, Twinfan said:

    I think it's the arm from what I can see.  If you use the standard servo saver and plastic arm, the arm will be a lot further forward towards the front of the car.  It will stick out from the servo and allow a straight link to the steering arms.

    Your issue is that the aluminium arm is too close to the servo body - it does not stick out far enough.  That is why the Hop-Up uses a thick/deep 5100 servo saver and arm on top, like the standard parts.

    yep you were spot on - thanks for the help :)

  2. hi

    the arm is not a formal hopup but I dont believe its that. even with the plastic one form the kit I ahve the same problem

    the arm is just too low and not alligned well with where it needs to conenct to. its really wierd...

    so instead of having a relatively straigh line between both points i have a relatively big angle which cant really connect...

    surely i did something wrong but I cant seem to undertstand what

    54799%2BTT02%2BTamiya%2Bservo%2Bsaver%2Breview%2Btips%2B%2B%25289%2529.jpg

  3. hi all;

    building my neo scorcher all went well until electronics part.

    when mounting the servo to the bottom screws (1) i noticed that the part that needs to be attached to the actual streering (2) does not reach the needed contact points (3)

    I am missing a centimiter give or take.

    is this something that one usually encounter? is this a servo height issue? should I create new holes in the plastic chasis for (1) to pass in?

    any siggestions?

    thanks

    image.thumb.png.a353de9c0b7bbceda4df5a0503c3bc40.png

    image.png

  4. [Build Update]

    so a few things I think are worth mentioning.

    1. I was going back and forth between ordering the kit itself from Amazon US or Amazon DE. I have more experience with US as far as purchasing goes and it was a bit cheaper and so I went with the US. however... I did not notice that the US kit come without a ESC and the German comes with. so half way through the build i got stuck with no ESC (i didnt pay attention to this when I opened the kit). so thats 25USD more I spent yesterday on a HW1060 at aMain.com (wanted something basic that would work), [update] both kits are 58568 numbered but the german one has the "elektronischer Fahrregler TEU-105BK" tamiya esc. strange...
    2. I added a sport tuned motor I found very cheap from a seller that looks like a valid one (i actually asked about him in the potential scammers forum but for some reason the post is still pending moderator approval). here is the link but I cannot guaranty its not a fake: https://www.ebay.com/itm/284690042355
    3. all the other AE hopups fit perfectly at least from a build perspective

    thanks

    • Like 1
  5. 12 minutes ago, Kol__ said:

    The main problem I have with them is the minimum order value of 130E or whatever it is, as that totally limits the purchasing of smaller parts orders👎

    exactly...

    I do not hae any issues buying cars from them as the shipping will still be around the 35eu mark.

    but as for the small things, hopups etc that I want to buy from time to time I am inclined to go elsewhere - accumulative its a lot of $$$ loss for them

  6. 80% of the merch do not require any special custom declarations.

    if AE can do it for free, I am sure tamico can do it for a resonable price

    I am sure they are profitable (at least I hope) but TBH, they lose a $hit ton of monay due to this... poeple like me would rather buy from them if it was resonable

    thanks

    • Like 1
  7. 1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

    You're not bound to those options but even with the stock spur you have a lot of options is all I'm saying - range of FDRs from 11.38 to 7.28. If I take my Associated B64 towards the faster extreme of that with only a fairly hot motor, it overheats, hence my gut feel the stock spur would take you as far as you'd likely want to know. 

    If the spur and pinion combined are smaller, their centres have to be closer together. With any mount, the motor can only be moved so far. Add the total number of teeth of pinion and spur together and the number needs to be above a certain minimum number for that reason. That looks like 16+70=86 (at 0.6 modulus) but maybe the sliding mount might go a little further - I don't know. 

    got it :)

    TBH, i am not sure how I feel about the adjustable mount, it feels like the first thing that will happen is that it will slowly slide away to the point where the pinion will not touch the spur - there's a lot of forces there

    thanks

  8. 4 hours ago, gkatz said:

    thanks;

    of course I have read this thread and looked at the drawings. but I was still confused. also, like I said I have a motor mount with adjustability so I dod not think I was bound to the restrictions of that drawing... this is why I posted my questions... (besides the fact I know nothing about gearing). I guess that in order to be on the safe side and not start adventures I would stick to tamiya's reccomendations

    another example of what I dont understand. on the tamiya motor and gear drawing shown above, the 64T spur pinion list starts from 22T. is there a reason for that? why cant I use a 19T pinion with the 64T spur for example?
    thanks for the help

  9. 54 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

    I read this then went looking for a recent post to share. Then I found it, on this very thread! 😜

    This is the most helpful concise piece I've seen on TT-02 gearing. So I was going to say - check that and spec spur and pinion to suit whatever final drive ratio (FDR) you want. Lower FDR is like a higher gear in your car - higher top speed, less acceleration, harder on the motor (which will overheat at too low a FDR). But because its a touring car chassis there's a lot of extra speed available with just pinion changes on the TT-02 before you need to worry about the spur. If I had a TT-02B I'd start stock and then if I want a bit more speed just try a bigger pinion, say a 19 or 20, and see how I get on with that. For my TT-02SR I've gone for the high speed gear set because on road and small wheels. 

    0.6 and 0.8 are referring to tooth pitch, essentially the size of the teeth. You need the spur and pinion to match. Some people change the TT-02 to a finer pitch/smaller teeth for quieter running, but I'd guess unusual in a TT-02B. 

    thanks;

    of course I have read this thread and looked at the drawings. but I was still confused. also, like I said I have a motor mount with adjustability so I dod not think I was bound to the restrictions of that drawing... this is why I posted my questions... (besides the fact I know nothing about gearing). I guess that in order to be on the safe side and not start adventures I would stick to tamiya's reccomendations

  10. hi guys;

    lots of info here but I am still stragling a bit with gearing.

    I already am building my TT02B and already installed some hop ups like the adjustable motor mount.
    I am trying to undertsand the gearing changes I can do.
    assuming I get a gear mount like so:  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Speed-Gear-Mount-Plate-Tamiya-TT-02-TT-02B-TT-02D-XV-01-RC-On-Road-Car-/155318999642 

    a few questions come to mind:

    1. this mount plate has 4 screw design, so I need only gears with these 4 holes in the correct place. this already reduces the amount of things I can buy and also its hard to know if a spur gear will fit (buying from AE - I usually dont get the tamiya branded ones)

    2. should I care about the spur diameter? I already have an adjustable motor mount so I assume no problem putting a smaller diameter spur but is the diameter an issue here?

    3. there are talks about 0.6 / 0.8 other - I have no idea what these numbers are and how they apply here

    4. what is a good spur teeth/pinion teeth combination to increase speed in a buggy like neoscorcher / plasma edge

    thanks a lot for the help!

  11. 1 minute ago, Fabia130vRS said:

    i have a big problem with tamico as their lowest intl ship rate is crazy high @ 30eu... 

    the ebay combo, i guess its like the amazon ones? non branded combos. I do not know how to check if they are any good...

    • Like 1
  12. 9 minutes ago, sosidge said:

    Amazon specials you take your chances.

    Hobbywing dominate hobby-level ESCs, good support and performance, really no need to choose any other brand unless you want something very specialised.

    Sensorless systems are cheaper, tend to be waterproof but not as smooth at low speeds. Good for high speed blasts.

    Sensored systems are more expensive, won't be waterproof but give fine low speed control. Better for technical use and racing.

    All ESCs will work with NiMH but NiMHs can't sustain the power demands of fast motors.

    hmmm

    so maybe for my use case sensorless is valid? i am not racing, not intend to race, just want to enjoy my car :)

  13. Just now, Twinfan said:

    I believe all these types are sensorless, sensored combos are usually more expensive.

    The point I was making is that I think you're going to have to compromise.  I don't think you'll be able to get everything on your list so you'll need to decide which items are the most important  :)

    if I bumped the price a little. i can see : https://www.hobbywingdirect.com/collections/combo-special/products/quicrun-10bl60-sensored-esc-combo?variant=25753352584 
    can it be ran with NimH?
    is this the "best" deal for what it provides from a branded company?
    maybe you have other suggestions?
    thanks

  14. 55 minutes ago, Twinfan said:

    I think the challenge will be finding a motor that gives you both more speed and longer run times.  You usually get one but not both.  And 60USD is not a lot for a motor, ESC and sensor cable!

    amazon has many combos of non branded stuff or less known stocker brands

    for example goolRC: https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Brushless-Upgrade-Waterproof-3300KV/dp/B095GNR1N2/ref=sr_1_23?crid=3CKC9S8DLGZS4&keywords=540+brushless+motor+esc+combo&qid=1675760640&sprefix=540+brushless+motor+esc+combo%2Caps%2C188&sr=8-23

    i have no idea if its good or not i can probably look for reviews but there are plenty like these there...

  15. Hi all;

    looking for a brushelss motor and esc to up my speed on the stock tamiya neo scorcher (silver can).

    I only want to replace motor and esc (keep my nimh battery for now)

    my criteria is simple:

    • more speed (prefferably a lot more but the car should still hold),
    • longer run times (so less batter drain),
    • easy on the pocket (i want something up to 60usd range if thats possible),
    • brand motor? (i am not sure i need a branded one),
    • sonsored? (prefferably)

    i think thats it :) i am not sure if there exists a motor that fits my needs,

    BTW, I am a hobbyist not a racer... if I have a 150$ car so I dont think putting more that 50-60USd on this combo makes sense...

    thanks for your help!

  16. Hi

    just got the dumbo RC 30$ transmitter.

    it would take some time to start working with it as I need to build the car kit first.

    but one thing I noticed is that the wheel travel is super short (short travel to the right and to the left until the wheel stops). I am not sure if this is how most transmiters are but I would like to know if this is something to take into consideration for my next transmitter purchase.

    how does the travel affects driving?. is a short travel better? worse? just a matter of preference?

    thanks!

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