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El Tomaso

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Everything posted by El Tomaso

  1. Probably the oldest thread to bring back to life with green injected medicine and electrisity from a lightening. The thread rises with arms forward and a nal out of each heads sides. Enough fun, but as a brushed only driver still i am wondering if i should buy a dyna run touring used but good lookin, i have acto power formula and touring motors, which one is better? dyna or acto? I have esc's that run any motor, i have like 30 no limit esc's, from many brands, and many 5turn limit and 8 turn limit. I prefer no limit, bc then i know it wont get hot with any motor. The LRP IPC v7.1 is my fav regulator, its seen as the best in the series. BUT, when the v6 came out and people saw how good it was, 60% of all drivers in the world championship had the LRP IPC v6 speedo that year!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thats market domination!! And the novak GT7 is my fav. novak esc, along with the tempest max III, the tempest is big but its good and reiable, nice throttle curve for beeing un-adjustable. And the futaba 5turn limit esc's i've got 3 for 90 dollars of are supposedly made with help from LRP???????? i would think ko propo helped bc. of the small size. Its like 1 and 1/2 sugarcubes, lol. futaba has made SOME great stuff on their own........ But is it worth buying the dyna-run touring if i have the acto power formula AND touring both look very good and the comm looks clean. I am def butying acto power trf tuned nib, reedy quad mag 19turns, and reedy Kr green 12turn quad magnet motor, both nib also. For my nib collection of escs and motors and rotors and lathe, and got the nib adspec pro radio/servo/cpr unit of 160amps rather than the first 100amps they marketed with the egress and top force evolution, with the dynatech o2h 13turn motor. Must have used the smallest pinnion since my 100amp thermalled fast. But i had a little large pinion, i knew it, but thought, maybe it'll be just the sweetspot................. But the cpr unit is the best behaving overly hot esc, 180f, cuts motor power completely but steering still works, perfect failsafe. Im impressed for such old stuff(came out in 1988) el tomaso
  2. EPIC car, just epic=) I inhereted some money and started back up with rc cars again. Now i have all the cars i regretted selling back then, i have all cars on my wishlist too. This is the only exception, i saw one on ebay but high money. I should have bought it anyway. If one comes up under 4000 dollars its buy now button right away. But how often do we find these on ebay, not often. hard life for those who like rare vintage stuff, lol, like me, lol i have started a respectable nib collection also. The very best esc's, special edition(oscar jansen edition for example)motors, mostly peak and orion motors, some reedy, all the newer easy to get tamiya motors, like superstock tz, bz and rz. gt tuned etc. el tomaso
  3. I have just built a nib of top force evolution 92model and a beautifull egress 89model. I want to display the cars with my choice of either totally period correct or looking like period correct, esc/motor- combo. I bought 3 o2h, one 7010 rotor to try out in my egress black. The worst condition o2h is in the egress black for testing, withe the cpr unit, tamiya servo, adspec radio and all. Igot a o2h and the whole tamiya adspec/cpr unit package and more even better nostalgic things from my only net-friend, and he is truly a good friend. Paints my bodies, i could ask him almost any help i need that he could manage. I also bought an dynatech 01R 19 turn, and a brand new in package 17turn rotor. Wont have to bring out the lathe before installing this mint rotor into my ok i guess 01R............ I also have an acto power trf tuned 12turn i wonder if i should put in my tf evolution rather than the o2h i have installed now. The esc is a novak cyclone, i wanted the novak tempest, any one of them. But they are so perfect nib with long nice cables ready to install where it can fit lol. I hate pulling nib items from my rare vintage nib collection. I am rather fond of my little shelf of the hottest brushed esc,s like the keyence rapida pro with buttons and a screen that says hello when powered on. That and special edition motors from peak and orion, reedy ti's, the tamiya super modified 11turn is cool to have nib never even opened too. Also the wires on the cyclone were soldered like it was made for that **** top force evolution. Its the only use the esc would ever get, so its a good fit. That and some completely hidden upgrades for integrety, beauty without it standing out too much and drivtrain bulletproofing. No more alloy gears in the rear gearbox, just the pinions that last **** surpricingly long to be alloy. Top force evolution is my favourite car ever since my first visit to a hobbyshop as a kid. I looked through that tamiya radio control guide book. 'Exploded view' on the first page, my autistic brain figured all those part sections would make the best ever rc car. I saved up and the car went off the market anymore or whatever, I was devastated. And yes i AM autistic. BUT NOW i have my perfect dream car to look at and hold and behold, 40 yo. The few alu upgrades on the car are black to not stand out=) except i changed the only plastic standoff on the car to nice alloy like all the rest in the cars design And two very different evo's to drive. One has oil filled gear diffs=) proper ones. Bothe have all titanium screws. I bought two similar oil filled gear diffs from extra speed from rcmart, with every needed tamiya part included in original packaging. Just need two of the giant gear diffs from several df01 cars I happen to have two, so I am making them for my other top force evo tonight. That will let me use its beautifull ta03 diffs instead of the mantaray cast metal ones in the evolution. The outdrives are shiny and the overall quality is better, much better than my manta ray diffs. But since its not for driving, thats too much you may say, but the evo diffs are trash and nothing else. Manta ray is ok if saving money is priority and still a step up from the evo diffs. And the the diffs un the evolution manual were similar to evo diffs in every way, but in the kit i got manta ray diffs, weird. el tomaso
  4. I just got them on an old overly blinged up db01 baldre i bought when building my perfekt db01. Saved a lot on tamiya hop ups and some from 3-rd party companies aswell. I dont know who makes the 12mm conversion, or even if they still exist to be had. The rears are wide and the fronts are super thin. An o ring holds the pin in place. Makes it so you can get a serrated wheelnut fully threaded on there but the threads wouldnt enter the rubber on normal wheelnuts. Sorry, thats all i know. regards, Thomas and Pippi=)
  5. The db01 is tamiyas best budget chassis, or race winner in the right hands after much more money. I was so keen on an nib RRR kit that i had a trade up, my barely used fully setup 501x with lrp fusion 10turn double and a new gm v8 esc, no limit baby, and parts car i just got two new gm esc's today, the v8 and a v12, i am getting a sx6R in the mail too, figured i'd get a couple of brushed esc's from my nostalgic time of rc many years ago. Now is track season beginning, and i switched to almost only brushed motors the last half year. As most know good old brushed escs are forward/brake mostly. Now I need oldish brushed escs with reverse and 10ish motor limit. the sx6R i have on the way is 12turn limit When I got a little safer economy I have bought all my biggest regrets selling, the df03, the db01, both upgraded, but i bought upgrades that really do nothing back then, but now, function first. my db01 have been hopped up with, flat lipo chassis, gear diffs, have another set on the way for quick tuning swaps of oils in the two diffs. i also have trf big bores, double slipper clutch, all suspension mounts in alloy, alloy caster blocks, alloy steering arms and bridge, carbon front tower, have a new rear carbon tower on the way, then i can finally use my alloy wing mounts, the car is complete with new shiny stainless heavy duty steel screws instead of every phillips head. changed all screws from first build step. novak no limit gtx esc(got it for 25dollars with shipping with non tracable letter), team orion revolution 12turn that really need lathing and brush change, but i have not opened a motor with such type endbell, my last two oscar jensen 7 and 9turn revolution beautyies will stay nib. As will my peak racing vantage spashett ed. 12turn single, never run in a car tested on bench so has a little solder i wish wasnt there on the soldering ears. And the most functional part on my entire db01......................................................., the blue alloy motor mount, i cant stand the sandblasted finnish on the stock mount.............lol. i also have a genious 12mm hex conversion for when i run out of pin and 10mm hex wheels................ Go db01!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Its not the poor mans 501x, its the rich mans better than 501x car that takes more of a beating and drives better, I have both. db01 hands down........... Rich mans car bc of the tons of options to make it in the rrr league. gear diffs and that alone makes the car brand new and better, and the stock diffs are pure trash, i made a point of binning them without building them. thomas and pippi=)
  6. I hope tamiya makes a whole new competition car somwhere between the 501x etc. cars and a fully trf'ed up db01 durga/baldre. I actually like plastic chassis because I dont fret about miniature marks and dents. And plastic cars can win races, like the lazer zx5-SP and later the zx5-FS from kyosho. The zx5-FS is made up of plastic and could beat most cars in competent hands i think. Two of my all time fav's in my collection are my fully carbon, and 8,5t brushless, zx5-SP, and my zx5-FS with 10turn lrp brushed and lrp ipc v6 no limit esc, its ballistic. The brushed motor car is MUCH faster, almost too fast. They are both perfect now IMO. But a new trf car with both cheaper AND more expencive solutions in perfect unison, each in the right place. I hope for belts in an enclosed space like the db01 has. Some carbon alloy but mostly plastic, but REALLY fantastic!! Or a full carbon and blue alloy beast with 12mm hexes and oil filled gear diffs AND ball diffs included, center diff or slipper, both included. And there should be a front oneway in there as a tuning option, and FULLY ballraced, not every place except the steering or similar. As long as tamiya puts all their experience, with both good cheap cars and expencive cars, into it and dont rush it, they would have the worlds new track demon now, and in 20 years, every collectors wet dream unicorn buggy. Prefferably shorty pack or sadle pack. I love saddle packs myself, but shorty is the new standard it seems. Maybe be very different and use slim batteries....... Hmmmmmmm. I hope they rere the latest trf buggy or make a new demon, and sooner rather than later. I am saving my big money for when tamiya makes a right move again, but the new schumacher draws my eyes to the completely alien way of building an rc buggy. Its built like no other 1/10 buggy..... And the build is most likely very involved and very much time spent doing what I love most. Building new kits that need no upgrades at all. Or building a cheap tamiya kit with huge potential and changing everything I dont like from the get go. Like my new db01, I wanted a db01rrr. I even offered to trade my barely used 501x with blue screws and a parts car for the db01RRR kit sealed. Glad nobody answered. Then I saw japaneese sites selling durgas through ebay for itty bitty prices. Ordered one, ready for a month of waiting, four days later i had it. Luckily it had the flat brick lipo tray. Somehow i also had the gear diffs, trf big bores, alloy front and rear arm mounts. alloy casterblocks and rear hubs. alloy steering. double slipper, blue motormount(it hits different), 10turn fantom motor with round orion style brushes, and the tiny novak gtx speedo with no limit. So **** the RRR, no matter how stealthy and sexy it looks. Now tamiya, give us a double dose of innovation=) t
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