Rasselbock

I got one for one of my street TT02s because I heard good things about it. The particular one I got had a minor drift in the steering trim. Car would only stay trimmed for a couple minutes, then it would start to arc slightly. Drove me absolutely nuts. I think the qc on cheap radios like the dumbo is lacking. You probably can get a good copy but anecdotally mine wasn’t. I threw it in the garbage and bought another rx for my Futaba 4PM.

I haven’t broken a chassis yet (My hypothesis, based on being a bad driver and hitting lots of stuff, is that keeping all the plastic kit parts and having no aluminum bits gives things a bit more give) But I am looking forward to that coming out and will be promptly ordering two. Thanks for developing those! Maybe I’ll add some blingy bits on after.

@TwinfanFor me it helps to think of watt hours as energy capacity and amp hours as charge capacity. Thats how a NIMH at 7.2v 5000mAh has 24Wh of energy and a LiPO at 7.4v 5000mAh has 37Wh of energy. Its definitely interesting looking up discharge curves of various battery chemistries across different rates. The story for NiMH is pretty bleak there compared to LiPO as well when you’re jamming on the go button. On the original topic, It doesn’t help with the low voltage cutoff in the car, but some manufacturers, like spektrum have smart circuitry in their batteries and chargers. The branded charger sets charging parameters per a chip in the battery. The battery keeps track of its health and automatically discharges to storage voltage after a set period. Seems like potentially a good system for someone who wants to run lipos but doesn’t want to watch internal resistance, balance currents, and such. https://www.spektrumrc.com/product/7.4v-6200mah-2s-120c-smart-g2-pro-basher-lipo-ic5/SPMXB2S62.html

Would also mention, per the rcracer recommendation, I tapped all the holes on my first kit. It was kind of a pain. On the second kit (one for the track and one for the garage), I tapped some of the parts and didn’t tap others to see how they hold up. I would recommend tapping as much as you have patience for. It makes it easier not to cross thread parts when you strip and reassemble and the connections feel more solid.

As a novice driver, I’ve really enjoyed my TA-08. The build is much more challenging than a TT-02 and it handles well out of the box. I got into touring cars last year and started racing last summer. I’ve hit a LOT of barriers and have not damaged the main chassis. Broken a lot of steering knuckles though (5?) on the hard metal perimeter on our outdoor track - stock up on those. In clever Tamiya style, you can use the same part at all four corners of the car. Being a flexy plastic car, it bounces back from collisions without getting tweaked. The downside is you’re going to have a bad time trying to get the weight balanced on all 4 corners. In a year or two, when I stop running into so much stuff, I’ll move to a 420x or similar. But for now, not tweaking after a collision is pretty great for a new racer.