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canyoncarver

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  1. I resolved this by sanding down the pads a bit with fine sandpaper but that's just a hack that shortens the lifespan of the pads, not an actual solution. Ordered the white RB5 slipper pads (UM516). Curious to see how those fit. Also ordered the shorter belt as mine skips quite bad when braking.
  2. I just posted the following question in the 87WC thread under re-res, but same question can be asked to this awesome crowd Team 87WC, Have an open question to those of you who intend to run your 87 (or any other Optima Mid ReRe) : Would it make sense for us to collaborate on setup sheets for the Optima? I've been searching here and rctech - and across the internet in general and there seem to be very little documentation for how to best dial in an Optima Mid. I even checked the SoDialed app; nothing. There's also the issue with the slipper clutch being tight if you tighten the bolt as per the manual etc. Maybe this could be a mission for the collective beehive brain of our great community ?
  3. Team 87WC, Have an open question to those of you who intend to run your 87 (or any other Optima Mid ReRe) : Would it make sense for us to collaborate on setup sheets for the Optima? I've been searching here and rctech - and across the internet in general and there seem to be very little documentation for how to best dial in an Optima Mid. I even checked the SoDialed app; nothing. There's also the issue with the slipper clutch being tight if you tighten the bolt as per the manual etc. Maybe this could be a mission for the collective beehive brain of our great community ?
  4. Hmm... and here I was contemplating the YR knuckles. Well, once I've worn out the plastic components a bit more, I wanted to upgrade to Kyosho's gunmental alloy from and rear hubs and combine that with the black YR steering knuckles. Maybe the latter is a bad idea? Kyosho should design that hop-up themselves
  5. Slow is good, just like Apple's drip feed of new shows. Also, the build is lovely so don't rush it
  6. How do you tune / set the slipper on an 4wd car? On 2wd you hold the rear wheels, blip the throttle and watch for the front to rise. also, is anyone of you aware of a good setup sheet? thanks in advance
  7. Got it; any tips on setup sheets for the Mid ?
  8. South of Sweden, and we had the first real winter in over 20 years with 5-8” of snow and pretty cold temps for 4-6 weeks, which probably contributed to a bump or to. One of the guys at the track was running a Xray XB2 with a 6.5t and that thing was flying. It still moved around a bit in the worst fast sections but none of the bounciness i get
  9. She’s coming together beautifully ! One of the few buggies looking better than a Mid seems to be a LWB Mid Not that it matters much at the track but the gunmetal finish for sure looks great when paired with carbon decks. I winged my penguin under tray too. Ultimately I let the steering arms dictate the cutout it in the front. Kept my sides tall and with Velcro they do an excellent job of keeping crud out. I drove for 20min on a wet track and there wasn’t a drop of water inside. QQ. You mentioned the Lazer lower front arms above, which is an upgrade that makes total sense based on your description. What Lazer should I browse for part number : the ZX5 or 7?
  10. Waking this thread back up again. Hi @joeling I took my 87WC out for my first serious track day today (Astro turf / outdoors). I run 2.2 rims with Schumacher Mezzos rear and Cactus Fusions in the front. I did find my Mid very bouncy on the straights and also needed to increase the suspension travel to better cope with jumps. After a chat with a friend at the track we both leaned towards softening the dampers up to 150ct or even 100ct, so curious to hear your thoughts as you went up to 400ct. I do have the stabilizer kit installed. Also, this leads me to a different questions. Is there a good setup resource for Mids online? I’ve tried searching but wasn’t able to find much, which is surprising given the popularity of the rere. thanks
  11. Unfortunately I don’t know how reply paragraph by paragraph so here are my replies Ball Diffs Yeah, the plates are what I’m primarily looking for. No success so far in finding them. Once I rebuild the diffs I’ll upgrade the to ceramic balls. edit: found the parts numbers UM119 (plates) BRG100 (thrust bearings) Setup Yes, use a penguin under tray. I do however ride on Astro outdoors (Schumacher tires on 2.2” rims) and Carpet indoors (foam tires on 2.2” rims). The mid was designed for dirt so I am asking a lot from jt with high traction surfaces. Balance Run a 2S LIPO (full-size). My plan is to buy a shorty lipo soon. That will help for sure. Yes, ESC is opposite of my servo. Photo / Shock position Please note that the photo is not of my car; it’s from the blog I mentioned. I forgot to mention that I did add the stabilizer set but kept the standard 200ct oil and springs. This is another reason I want to go for lighter oil - and potentially also softer springs. (edit) Motor I run a stock Hobbywing XeRun10 / Justock 13.5t combo, so decent power but nothing crazy.
  12. You're making a good point. Spent around 3 hours on a local track today (outdoor astro). Here are some observations : The diffs felt fine. I didn't adjust them throughout the day but feel they have loosened up now. BTW, are you aware of a parts number for a maintenance set with plates etc? With some proper track time I felt like the car had too little suspension travel, so I remounted both front and rear dampers one hole down to give the car more travel This naturally made it much more prone to traction roll (cactus fusion tires front, mezzos rear) so I increased the front camber by 1.5 turns from standard and adjusted the toe out accordingly as the geometry changed with the camber increase The car now had a lot less traction roll and was easier to smoothly turn in, but still didn't go as far as understeer Granted I am on the standard wheel base, I felt that the car is quite bouncy. After a long conversation with a fellow rider, we both concluded that lighter shock oil should help. I will try with both 150ct and 100ct. One potential avenue is to also use the piston plate with 5 holes. Any experience from that? Being so rear heavy, it will probably benefit from some weights upfront to balance things out a bit. I will try with adding 30g to the front. To further improve I am also thinking about mounting the front shocks to the C hubs. Got the inspiration from a great Optima Resto Mod blog as per photo below (https://www.neovintage-rc.com/post/project-kyosho-optima-mid) but have to look more closely at what happens to the geometry and if parts need to be replaced. Am curious to hear your thoughts (and about how you LWB turns out) Other than this fine tuning, I am loving it. Not that it matters per se but it got a ton of compliments on the track. XRAYs and Assocciated are killing it on the track but even their drivers don't like the way they look
  13. My wife is still making fun of me after my diff build... She's like "do you need a magnifying glass honey" That CAT was for sure flying
  14. Thank you @toyolien!After 6 hours at the track (outdoor astro) it has a few battle scars but still love it. Not that it matters to me that much but the 87 for sure does get a lot of compliments on the track. XRAYs and Associated buggies are killing it on the track but even the drivers don't really like they way they look
  15. That's awesome! I will probably not be able to try a softer spring/oil setup for a couple more months First want to get my Carbon Towers so I can see if the geometry works out at all. Please share your experience here too. There is so little written about this upgrade.
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