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About skom25

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  1. I installed turnbuckles this week. Since I want to go only On-Road, I do not see reason to have so much ride height as now. I do not see any chance to lower front but what about rear? Maybe short eyelets? Any ideas how to adjust it more to hard surface conditions?
  2. Hi, I read many Topics but have not found satisfying answer. I want to use Tamiya 54232 Thread Forming Tap and use machine screws. Why? I like hex machine screws. They are super cheap and available in many lengths.10 self tapping screws from Tamiya costs about the same as about 50- 100 good quality stainless machine screws. Sounds good but I still have doubts. 1. Self tapping screw has much higher thread which probably cut into plastic better. Machine screw thread is tiny. I have feeling that at least in theory, it will be much easier to strip threads. 2. Tension. Machine screw needs to be tensioned to stay in place. Using it in plastic it is not possible to do. Is this not an issue in real world? 3. Holes diameter. I read that in low end models, holes are sometimes out of spec. What in that case?
  3. I changed pinion gear to 19T, because as I wrote, I will try stay on asphalt. I do not know why, but adjusting suspension is really satisfying. I wanted to use black wheels from Racing Fighter, but I did not because: 1. Rear were really badly damaged 2. Front Astral are much wider ( 19 mm vs 25 mm) so Neo Fighter tires fit much better I really recommend wrench you can see on photo. Adjusting suspension is pleasure. It fits very tight, so there is no chance to slip. Time to read about angles and go for a ride tommorrow.
  4. I bought red ones. Cheap, so I will just try. I found that after change from 800/100 to 400 oil, there is significantly less oil outside. It seems that thick oil caused pressure and orings leaked a bit. At least I think so.
  5. I have 15 kg SRT servo and have not experienced such an issue. Works fine.
  6. I already have TBLE from kit. In that case, there is no real advantage of 1060?
  7. Thanks! I have Torque Tuned motor and NiMh batteries. I will stick with that, because I do not see reason to have much more powerful set. I prefer control, not pure speed and going straight. In that case, is there any advantage of HW over TBLE?
  8. Hi, I read some comparisons of those two ESCs but it is still not clear for me. Is there any advantage of HW 1060 over TBLE 02S? Someone suggested that HW has much better modulation. I heard also that HW is faster. What is your opinion? Do you have direct comparison? Is it worth to replace TBLE 02S with HW 1060?
  9. Thanks for all replies! I Very nice to read that all posts! Currently I have 17T pinion with Torque Tuned motor and heat sink. I did not have problems with overheating but I run on temperature between 10- 17 C degrees. Is it worth to switch to 19T? Will I loose much acceleration and raise temperature? I decided to remove gearbox cover, to check what is inside after my muddy journey... Well, this time I have luck. Little bit of dust around cover and only small amount of residue on that big gear ( sorry, do not know names). Inside gear is super clean. I cleaned everything and will assembly after I decide which pinion I will fit.
  10. One more thing! I cannot decide: Black Star wheels or white Astral? Tires question: Should I use inserts on front?
  11. It is at least 50% of RC fun. It is real fun to find how things work, how to modify etc. Tamiya offer so many parts, that there is always something to improve. Today I bought fluoro coated ball nuts. They are super slick, I did not expect this. I bought them as a first Hop Up, together with Alu servo mount. I think I am on quite high level with Hop Ups. I have few ideas more but I will do them during longer break ( next winter?) To be honest, I have second DT-03 in spare parts. I do not know if I will build second one or leave for spares. Unfortunately, gears are not available, so at the moment I am not able to build second one anyway. We will see... I bought reinforced parts: It is funny, that those parts are about 30% cheaper than from regular plastic. I have also lightweight gearbox shafts but I did not want to dissassembly gearbox to install them. I bought them because, again, were much cheaper than standard. There are not too many Hop Ups I can install. Alloy battery holder ( do not see reason to buy), better shocks internals and ball diff. I read that ball diff requires much more maintenance and metal dog bones are not so good as can be expected. Of course, there are many aftermarket parts but I prefer to stay with Tamiya for now. I found also one thing: dogbones and wheel axles are fibre reinforced in Racing Fighter. I bought spares from DT-02 and they are "standard" plastic. Lol, that "Racing by post" sounds fun. If I find good spot, maybe I will try.
  12. I am weak man... with too much free time I decided that I will install rear adjustable turnbuckless too. I bought them some time ago but now with much more confidence and knowledge, I decided to install them. I also found good and fast method to prepare rod ends. Maybe you will see it: I replaced screw with stainless shaft on wishbone/ gearbox. Length was perfect. I did not have to use any shims. Probably about 0.5 mm longer will be better, because now clips sit very tight. I ordered Team Associated turnbuckle wrench from alluminium. It looks 10 times better than Tamiya. Any tips with suspension adjustments? I read theory but any good starting point for DT-03? BTW: I have not mentioned this, but during first run I... parked model in muddy water. It was not deep, reached to about half of wheels. When I detached gearbox from chassis, there was still some mud. I hope gearbox is sealed enough...
  13. It was looong evening. I also changed bolts to stainless where it was possible. I have to buy turnbuckles spanner. That from kit is total... you know the right word. Only downside I see is decrease of stifness.
  14. Thanks! I will think about rear for two reasons: 1. I do not have enough rod ends and ball joints for now 2. I do not want to remove gearbox To be honest, I have real issue to remove sterring rods from ball joints. I do not have acces to servo saver and uprights are elastic and do not want to break them...
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