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About Jammi3D

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  1. ok new Servo arrived today, problem looks to be fixed and seems to center itself when powered up. I'm waiting on the aluminum servo horn to arrive before installing. I did notice I had to set the steering throttle trim to -1 as the wheels were turning (only happens with throttle set to neutral) which didn't do before. The new servo also seems to be buzzing/twitching a little like some interference some where https://drive.google.com/file/d/1uwjqA7KCjmqxGp4dKJ2PM-D0lKFLXtyd/view?usp=sharing Servo Saver arrived and now constantly making a noise, I've also tried my brothers servo again in his chassis and is ok https://drive.google.com/file/d/17dg-2OVJ-qZstJwKac9UIlyq0xb-BLV2/view?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/1SGX2zyZaLEUtTkWP7EbO3xLkt44ydsaE/view?usp=sharing
  2. New ESC installed today and made no difference. Removed all the electrics and tested off the chassis and also used the Silver can motor with same results. Disconnected the motor and connected my brother's servo, instant lock to the right like before. (same on both channels)
  3. Running a Tamiya BZ motor. I've always had the throttle set to reverse as prefer to use the trigger this way. Anyway set the throttle to normal and the light stops but still down on power. Putting throttle back to reverse and a couple of power ups results in full power. Following your instructions Mad Ax, swapping channels seemed to work ok for a few seconds with no lights and full power (throttle also set to reverse) Now the steering is stuck on full lock to the right and servo is buzzing (only when stuck otherwise no sound) . Swapping the channels back steering works but is sluggish returning to centre. I've ordered a ESC just to test but I guess will order a servo too. The servo worked last weekend when outside of the car, I guess because there was no load on it. **Edit** Just tried on my brothers Savox servo and on both channels instantly full locks to the right :/
  4. thank you for the reply. Everything on the remote is set to 0, throttle & steering are set to max. I set the jumper back to NiMH as I know the battery works ok, battery has had a full charge and made no difference. All the pins look ok. I've got a video it will probably explain things better. As you can see in the video the 1st time I powered it on there was nothing until I pressed the throttle twice in which the car started in reverse until I pressed the throttle again. When pressing the throttle again the car is under powered compared to normal. 2nd time I powered on the car and held the throttle the ESC had a constant beep. As you can hear when I held the throttle there was only short bursts of power (not me releasing the throttle and repressing it) which I'm guessing the ESC is in limp mode? https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wvZHlo1TvRjZYSr7UaN1Ug8OuCa7Ke8A/view?usp=sharing
  5. Had a crash with my TT-02B (hit a post) and I've fixed the broken parts but the ESC seems to be having problems. When powering on I get a single beep than nothing until I keep my finger on the accelerator which will than bleep again than a constant bleeping noise until I press the accelerator again than all silence except a constant flashing red light on the ESC. I've read the manual and followed the trouble shooting but no fix. (ESC is in chan2) Not only is that the issue but seems to be down on power (full throttle is approx 40% of what it should be) ... if I keep powering off/on the ESC than eventually it will give full power but no steering (chan1) I'm using the incl Absima CR4S & Carson Dragster. Have I broken the ESC? ... it has probably had around 2 hours use. Things tried: Different Battery (both lipo & NI-MH) Bind remote to receiver Fresh Batteries in remote cheers
  6. I think I've not understood the motor mount correctly which would explain the spur/pinion been tight together. The 17t was just a test today. With the 19t I was using hole 19 (D) on the mount but as you explained I should be using hole 17 (B) EDIT thank you everyone for the suggestions, as one hit pointed out I was using the wrong mounting holes, just moved to hole B and working perfectly again thank you
  7. Sound was heard both driving and while on stand (video above was on stand) I found the problem, I bought replacement pinions (TAM 50355) and have been running the 19t pinion for a while with no issues. I've installed the kit pinion which seems to be smaller in size and no noise. Both are .06 mod so should they not work? Have a feeling I may be understanding the motor mount wrong? hole 19 for 19t ... have tried both mounting holes on the BZ motor with same results. It does look like when using the 19t hole the pinion & spur are too close together.
  8. cheers for the replies. I have noticed there is damage to the prop joint which would say there is debris in there but I've taken it all apart/cleaned and put back together and still the noise. The damage which removed the blue was done on the 1st run, the faint marks are recent. I have added shims to reduce any extra movement, do you think I've added too many causing extra pressure? one_hit, I'll grab some aluminium tape as I need to order some different sized shims. I have picked up a reinforced red chassis so may just do a rebuild.
  9. I've got a TT-02B with a BZ motor, 68T Spur and currently a 19t pinion fitted. This has been working ok but noticed a catching/knocking noise on the last run. Have taken apart the rear/front diff , everything looks ok (no plastic shavings ect) put back together and re-greased still have the noise. After dismantling most the buggy I thought I'd try the torque tuned motor it came with and no noise. I've tried the torque tuned motor again today and the noise has re-appeared so can rule out the motors. Anyone any ideas what the noise could be? Video shows approx 30-40% throttle. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TS5SOjCLLFUZYqkqg3PzP32nBXvqTrDd/view
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