Jump to content

Rijkvv

Members
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

27 Excellent

About Rijkvv

  • Rank
    Newbie
  • Birthday 11/08/1988

Profile Information

  • Location
    Netherlands

Recent Profile Visitors

108 profile views
  1. My LHS is asking about 15 euros for a PS can I think, and often you need two or more cans for multiple colours or backing. I'm a firm believer of supporting local businesses, but my budget has limits. Then some of the bodies by Killerbody actually become a viable option for onroad cars. I've read somewhere else RC-specific tools are overpriced, but quality tools in general aren't cheap and I don't want to always have to search where I left my screwdriver, so I want additional tools regardless. Then again, an Olfa knife can be found for 15 euro, the exact same knife with Tamiya branding costs about twice as much. Some of the Tamiya cars have a slot for an on/off switch, as an autist I NEED to use it, and I see only a few options for these unless I go solder myself. One is the limited Tamiya esc, the other is one of Castle (which I'm not even sure it fits) which is in general well beyond my budget.
  2. Come to think of it, I do look at instructions and possibly Youtube to see how hard of a job decals on a body are, and that prevented me from going for the Lancia. But I screwed up that Subaru enough that I almost gave up doing bodies at all. Going non-boxart is not an option for me though, so maybe I can use that as an excuse to get a TT-02BR. I did consider getting a Killerbody. Not such a waste if it has to be replaced, but they look nice, and without the need to also have to buy paint it's actually a good deal.
  3. I wonder if those switches are so short to be an easier fit in tightly packed models? I agree though, if there's a place for an on/off switch I want to use it (and it definitely has benefits). Soon I'll be trying my first soldering in 20 years, but those small wires needed for such a switch (if I can find them)? I better get some motor/battery connections soldered well first. Actually considered a couple of TBLE's just for that. The TBLE however can't be powered with Lipo's IIRC, just now that I consider switching from Nimh batteries. Castle has a switch that might fit, but I'm not sure that price range is worth it for me just for that switch.
  4. I was practicing a bit with my Dark Impact yesterday, finally decided to give it a go and ordered some track markers, the missus didn't agree to use the dishes from the kitchen. It oversteered a lot, I got the impression that the rear diff was very loose. Can that be related to each other? Tightened the front diff, but failed to do so with the rear one, did I screw that one up?
  5. I have skipped a few tiny details on my RX7, and after I screwed up the paint and a few big decals on the Arai Subaru I've decided to not put any more effort in it. In general though I intend to use all of them.
  6. I'm coming from Tamiya but read a lot about Kyosho, and though it's a steep price tag I might consider saving for an Optima Mid in the future. Dirt Master looked also nice, less expensive but watching reviews I got the impression it's a sort of austerity model just to keep the price down (and hard to get now). Not so for the Legendary series. However, according to the manual max rx height is 17 mm. I have a Sanwa MX-6 and am now bound to RX-391 receivers from what I've read, which are 18,1 mm high. Did Kyosho just want to be on the safe side and doesn't cause those few mm's issues or should I expect some difficulties putting the electronics in?
  7. For my normal non-RC screwdrivers I heard the names Wera and Wiha most of the time. After reading reports of Wera handles suffering from the softeners in them I chose for the latter. No issue whatsoever so far. For my hex drivers I use the Tamiya set for now. If they won't do, I may look at what Wiha has to offer, or MIP/Hudy/Arrowmax. I would've liked if one of the well-known tool brands offered JIS drivers, but the only non-RC brand that I can think of is Vessel. An organized tool bag like that Arrowmax looks gorgeous, but I have my stuff in a Tayg box, where I have multiple different brands in anyway.
  8. I regret I never got an FF-03 when it was still available. Probably gonna get the same with the M07, but my M08 doesn't like the clinker bricks here, and I'll probably change my mind when it's too late. A couple of weeks ago somebody hinted me at a Futaba 4PM, as good as new, with everything included for about 120 euro. I didn't know much about multi-model transmitters so first wanted to read more about it. When I finally decided to get that Futaba, it was already sold.
  9. Newbie here. Not much driving experience, in racing not at all. This looks fun however, and I'm eager to join! I considered joining an RC club years ago, but I think this is a way more relaxed way of enjoying your RC cars and have some laughs. I might start with one of the older tracks though, so I can compare the lap times in secret, so that I won't get totally humiliated (which I will regardless, maybe I should leave the higher end kits for what they are, the shame would be unbearable!) I'm still looking for some area to drive though. There's a large construction site on walking distance, which I guess is closed in the weekends. Concrete plates (exactly 2x2m, should make setup easy) and a large flat sand area next to it. That's about it though, if I want to stay in the neighborhood. Some yards/playgrounds/squares (whatever it's called) would be great, but with nice weather they're full of playong children (them playing outside is great, but inconvenient for me of course). Not sure I'm willing to drive a lot with the expensive petrol nowadays. Most streets I'm hesitant to use with traffic. There's a bus lane nearby, one of the few pieces of tarmac without too much traffic. I think aside from cyclists now and then, a bus drives there every hour. Plenty time to set up and have a go? What's the average setup time? My apologies if this has been discussed before. English is not my native language, and it takes some time for me to read through 118 pages. But I'll get there!
  10. I'm currently in the market for a new servo. I want one that works with a Tamiya esc, without an external BEC. That severely limits my possibilities I think, since the internal BEC is only 1.5A. I've read about this rule of thumb that a servo draws 1A for every 3kg/cm, but then there might be exceptions. The picture is from a Savox SC0253MG. I've heard about the power hunger of Savox servo's, but I've also heard about good experiences. Besides, this is one brand that lists current with their servo specs, something PowerHD doesn't for each servo. Now, where do I have to look to decide if I can run it without an external BEC? Is that stall current? In that case, would I be safe with this one? Does anybody has experiences with that servo?
  11. Thanks for the suggestion, just have been looking a bit at the manual and that looks like a promising quality kit. I'm going to ask my local hobby shop if they can get Kyosho parts, just in case. Maybe watch and read some reviews and build reports. The price though is quite hefty compared to a DT-03, not sure if I can get permission from the missus after I explained that buggies are much cheaper...
  12. Do you know that feeling, that you have a (very) strong opinion about something, and then suddenly you change your opinion 180 degrees? That kinda happened to me the last days concerning buggies. They look fun indeed, I can go on a bit rougher terrain than my XV-01 (which I still might build anyway), and so I'm thinking about getting a buggy. Maybe not as realistic, but with 1:10 cars I don't get near the levels of realism of tanks and truck anyway, and those are far beyond my budget. I'm mainly looking at the 2wd buggies. Easier maintenance I assume. Besides of that, as for 4wd buggies I think there's only either expensive 400+ Euro kits, kits which are maybe less reliable, or TT-02B's, of which I haven't read that many good stories. The only 4wd buggy I'm looking at now is a Dark Impact, but reading the recent topic about the DF-03 makes me a bit anxcious to use that. The DT-02 and DT-03 on the other hand get a lot of praise from what I've read so far, especially for entry level kits. Might also be a bit safer to use a brushless motor in, though the motor I've seen recommended somewhere (Bluebottle) needs soldering and I don't have the tools or the confidence (yet) to do that, so I would probably go with a Tamiya TBLM or Torque Tuned anyway for the time being. Any preference of one chassis over the other in terms of reliability? I'd go for CVA's and ball bearings anyway (Sand Viper and Nissan Titan (DT-02) have them both, from what I've read the DT-03's have CVA's included?). I've heard about the DT-02 shock tower being a point of concern, but the Nissan has a crossbrace fitted, and there's also the Carson aluminium brace which I could get. As for the DT-03 maybe carbon shock towers? Any other weaknesses? Then I'm undecided what servo to fit. There are some great recommendations to find but I'm not sure if those apply to me as well. I've read quite a bit about BEC's but didn't get a clear picture. The M-08 uses a Savox (1251 maybe?), I've read those can demand a high current, but so far no problems yet. But that one has a Hobbywing 1060 which I believe has an internal 2A BEC. The Tamiya ESC included in some of those buggies kits has 1.5A IIRC. I prefer to use those ESC's, and not to use an external BEC, and I understood that means as a rule of thumb a maximum torque of 4.5kg/cm which I believe severely limits my options. Or is that something that you never reach in practice? Any servo to recommend? Preferably a bit less expensive, but with build quality, reliable and a bit fast (I believe I've read 0.13s is a good speed)?
  13. A potential official re-re with censored tobacco sponsor and instead "Racing" would have that IMHO as well.
  14. I was looking for a basher, and the xm-01 at least makes me curious. Is the 959 on M-chassis size? Then it's one of the few bodies which I can think of which really looks the part on a raised M-chassis.
×
×
  • Create New...