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Ty89m

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  1. VERY interested in the 787 to go with the 956 and C11. For me, having it pre-painted is a welcome change, especially on something with so much room for error if painting myself. Hoping to get more info regarding US availability, or where we can snag one from Japan.
  2. Yes, I build the pack on the shaft and slide into position vs. shoving the threads through. It's so strange as I've never noticed such sensitivity to the tightness of the lower cap before. I also find it finicky to get the top cap snug as if you build it per directions (leave 7mm protruding from the bottom cap to the beginning of the shaft ball-end), as soon as you extend the shock it wants to suck the bladder into the shock body, thus allowing you to tighten the cap all the way to the end of threads. This results in the cap not being pinched between the edge of the shock body/cap, and resulted in leaks prior to me figuring out what was going on. I just leave the shock extended when building to prevent this, but then I end up with more rebound than needed. All a bit moot as many of these more expensive Tamiya kits don't get run very often, and certainly not hard. I'd almost be better off building without oil if they're mainly sitting on the shelf. I ordered several packs of replacement o-rings to toy with. I will likely build without using o-ring grease in the hopes that the silicone oil makes the o-ring swell and provide a better seal. We'll see how things goes, but I'm sure getting tired of rebuilding these ha!
  3. Nobody has ever had hi-caps that leak eh? I'd still be curious how snug most of you make the lower caps to get good compression on the o-ring without overdoing it.
  4. Having gone through the Top Force Evo and the Avante Black Special, I had assumed I had a decent method for building these Tamiya bladder shocks, but I'm struggling with the Egress 2013 rere. These particular VQS shocks are very sensitive to how tight the lower cylinder end that compresses the red o-ring is. How tight are most of you running them? I'll get some fresh ones ordered as there's a chance I've overly compressed them. I am using ProTek blue o-ring grease as per my usual method. Lastly, I noticed that building per the manual (the rears specifically), it has you compress the shock shaft until there's 7mm left extended, place bladder seal, and then screw on cap. What's odd is I can get it tight, but once I extend the shaft and extend/retract a few times, I'm then able to screw the cap further down the threads. I'd be curious for those with an Avante/TF/Egress could tell me how many threads are left showing once you get the shock cap snugged up. Thanks all. Edit: Replaced with fresh o-rings, and regardless of how snug (and loose, and everything in between) I make the lower cap I still get a good amount of weeping/leakage. I even tried just using the damper oil to lube the o-ring this time vs. using grease; no dice. No issue with the Top Force nor Avante 2011, so I'm at a loss. Are there any modern x-rings that play nice with the VQS shocks?
  5. Thanks for sharing the pics. I swapped out the Sport Tuned and used one of my Yokomo Esprit motors they had done up for the Super Dog Fighter re-re. It's a lot better, though the grub screw is still closer to the end of the shaft than I'd like, but it'll be fine. It being pink is a bonus and matches well with the Super Astute.
  6. I got it as close to 19mm as I could while still getting the set screw to sit entirely on the flat of the shaft, at 19mm it would have overhung the back end of the shaft. I ended up tossing a Sport-Tuned in that is slightly longer and now all but roughly 1mm of the pinion is engaging with the spur. Edit: What motor are you running? How do things line up?
  7. Anyone who's built theirs and is running the stock spur/pinion, do you mind sharing how well your pinion/spur mesh up? I'm fitting a basic silver can with a shaft on the shorter side and I'm only getting about half the pinion engaging with spur. I also have about 1-2mm of axial play on the slipper shaft that doesn't help matters (though I can shim that out).
  8. Whoops! I got my wires crossed as I just finished my Top Force Evo and THAT'S the kit that got the machined motor mount, not the Avante. I've been building entirely too many kits lately.
  9. I shimmed the one-way/spur assembly as shown in the Egress manual, grabbed the genuine Tamiya machined motor mount, and an appropriate steel pinion. Mainly a shelf queen in my case, so I didn't go overboard; it's pretty nice straight out of the box. Edit: The motor mount was for my Top Force Evo - got my wires crossed. Disregard.
  10. I'm right there with you. Ordered as soon as it hit the US to go along side the previous SDF. I've snagged several of the latest re-release kits this year, but this is the one I'm most excited about.
  11. I was surprised to see it pop into stock at Amain this evening. I had asked them about an ETA a few days ago, and they anticipated Jan/Feb, so it was a nice surprise to see it available. I'm looking forward to adding it to the queue. It's been a busy month of re-release kits!
  12. Just popped into stock at Amain for those in the US. Curious to see how popular this ends up being.
  13. Yeah - looks like a blow dryer and some patience is required with this one. I'll have to grab a spare body and give painting it a try as it's basic enough that even I might be able to pull it off (famous last words).
  14. Great job. Did you use the included decals or did you paint? I succumbed to the urge and got one ordered from Stormer Hobbies a little bit ago. I had assumed the stock at Amain would hold up for a few days; I was wrong. Glad I manged to snag one - though I had to offload my RC10T to make room (and appease the wife).
  15. Saw them pop up again at Amain here in the US and had to jump on it. This will be my first Tamiya kit that isn't a re-release buggy of some form. Looks like a fun little kit!
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