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About Ty89m

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  1. Doh! It might be time to give my glasses prescription an update ha! Thanks.
  2. This one for the Egress? I didn't realize the two were so similar. The ratio on the 22t pinion is slightly different than what I and others have calculated, but it's close enough. Now I wonder which manual this originated from. Regardless, I'll save a copy for myself.
  3. I think I found a scan of the original manual and it's nearly identical to the re-release. All good! I mainly purchased it for the build as it looks super interesting. It's an entirely different vibe than the other kits I've purchased recently.
  4. Yup, that's plan B. I just thought it was interesting that the manual lacked any gearing information considering how thorough the rest of the manual is.
  5. Tamiya base says the lowest ratio is 8.33:1, but no charts in my manual. I'll see if I can find the vintage manual. I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to calculating internal ratios, especially with the over-engineered (but super cool) Avante gearing, but I ended up with an internal ratio of 2.78:1. I just counted the teeth on the spur (drive gear in manual), and worked backward using the 8.33:1 FDR with stock 22T pinion. I'll be running the included brushed motor and stock pinion, so not a big deal, but it would be nice to know if/when I try using a brushless setup in it.
  6. I'm looking through my Avante 2011 Black manual and can't find anything on the gear ratios. Am I overlooking something? Is Tamiya typically omitting that information on their vintage re-release cars? According to some online sources the FDR is 8.33:1, but it would be nice to know the internal ratio (I can attempt to calculate once I unbox the kit, but a lot is going on with the drive train in this kit). Does anyone have a gearing chart or know the internal gear ratio? I'll manually count the teeth on the spur to get the pinion/spur ratio. Thanks!
  7. I also ordered the JJ Ultima '87 car which also recommends running the smaller 51T spur (OTW126). In that case, running the 51T limits me to a 27-tooth pinion and higher according to the JJ Ultima manual. This gives me a FDR of 7.16 which is a bit low when looking at what HW recommends for a 13.5T/2WD, so I'm almost better off using the larger stock spur in that case. I'm assuming you're limited by pinion choice when using the smaller spur based on not being able to set the mesh correctly (running out of motor adjustment). However, perhaps there are other reasons you can't run certain spur/pinion combos. In terms of the Javelin, the smaller pinion (if using the stock 25T pinion) gets me about right on for FDR (this is assuming a 25T is compatible with that spur on the Javelin, the manual doesn't list gear ratios/pairing options when running the 51T spur like the JJ Ultima manual does). I'm assuming that OTW126 spur gear is identical to the stock spur beyond having a lower tooth count? I wondered if it was a more robust material to stand up to higher-power motors. Thanks for the info on wheel sizes. I had assumed the larger wheels would require larger-diameter tires as well. Is 2.2 the standard size on most of these 1/10 buggies?
  8. I couldn't help myself and got a Javelin ordered today, and now I'm working out what to run regarding electronics. Looking through the manual, I see Kyosho recommends their 15.5T Le Mans motor, but I also see a specific spur gear listed when going brushless. The part number is OTW126 and they call it the "MCN 51T" spur gear. The stock spur is a 61T, so I'm curious if anyone knows why they're recommending a faster spur when going brushless? Perhaps it's a more robust part? Any idea what "MCN" is referring to? Lastly, is there any issue running the Optima Mid wheels from the 60th car (peppermint to match the cage I ordered with the Javelin)? I know the stock kit is running 43mm wheels, but they mention larger 50mm wheels as an option part. My only concern is wheel width when running the stock Javelin hubs. Thanks!
  9. Yeah, I should have downloaded the manual and looked over the RC10 vs 10T a bit more closely. I don't intend to run these hard, so the lack of a slipper likely isn't an issue. If I can find a 40th reasonably close to MAP I'll likely grab that alongside the 10T. My little collection seems a bit incomplete without adding at least one of the Associated kits. For those of you planning a brushed setup in the 10T, what are you going with? I've been shooting for the motor-recommended FDR when going brushless, but I'm lost when it comes to pinion pairings (I realize pinion choice depends on several factors, but something to get me in the ballpark) with brushed motors. As far as motor, would something in the 17T - 27T be a good start?
  10. Great info, thanks! I didn't realize the 10T had a different transmission. The RC10 fits my theme a bit better, but the 10T is a good-looking kit for sure. Regarding the YZ10, that would be harder to justify as I have the 870C SDF arriving in the next day or two. From what I can tell they're the same kit beyond body and wheels, but I could be overlooking something.
  11. While I'm no spring chicken, I wasn't fortunate enough to be involved in this hobby when I was younger, and don't have an attachment to these kits like some of you. That said, I'm slowly procuring a lot of these re-release kits and would like to add either the RC10 or this RC10T. I missed the boat on the 40th, and while I can still find one, I'm not sure I want to pay the $500 they're going for. I like the $379 of this RC10T a bit better Which of the two was more popular back in the day? It would seem the RC10 is the one to have, but it seems this RC10T was popular as well. Given the choice between the two, which would you focus on? I realize "both" is the correct answer, but I've gone off the deep end with the kits over the last few weeks, so I'm stuck with the wife-imposed limit of "one more." They're very similar designs beyond the longer shocks, correct? Lastly, is there a go-to period(ish) correct brushed motor to pair with these? Will these gearboxes stand up to today's brushless setups if using something mild (and not very often)?
  12. Excellent information. I'm conflicted, as it's tempting to grab a bunch of the optional parts, but I know I won't run it hard so it's a bit pointless. That said, I don't want to feel like I cut corners. I do wonder if the HD mid gear and motor plate are worthy additions. I also see the white slipper pads as an option, but there's not much in the way of information on when to use which pads. I assume their use depends on what type of surfaces the car will be driven? And yes, I'll certainly need to watch some tutorials on ball diffs. I've dealt with nothing but gear diffs in the few crawlers I've built, so I'm entirely new to this type of differential. I'll look into the gear diff for the front, just for fun. Now I just need to figure out which way to jump on the ESC and servo. I picked up the 240 Gold 13.5T and one of the 240S LeMans ESC's, but that'll likely go in the pan car due to space constraints. They're good looking speed controllers, but I can get an awfully nice Hobbywing for what Kyosho (or the company making their ESC) charges. Does anyone run the Kyosho branded steering servo? I see them listed in the manual, and they're awfully affordable so I'm tempted to give one a try.
  13. Being as I'm new to this, is it worth picking up the tungsten carbide diff balls vs. what I assume to be steel that come stock with the Optima 60th kit? I see other 3/32 tungsten balls on Amain and the like for about 1/3 the price of the Kyosho part - any reason the aftermarket version would be a problem? Are there any other "must have" hop-ups for this kit?
  14. Good to know. I grabbed the Mission Model paints and the 60th Optima kit so I'll try mixing up a box-correct color and see how I get on. I snagged the 1/12 CRC-II Pan Car kit too, so this should keep me busy for a while! I appreciate the help info.
  15. Yeah, I'm not a racer nor do I have a track anywhere near me, so the modern touring cars and buggies are a bit overkill, and these re-release kits have a certain charm about them (and are from my era which helps). I'll order the Mission Models colors to try and swap to the Cobalt Green if necessary. Someone mentioned using Pro-Line military green along with white/blue, but I can't find feedback on the results of that mixture. The Egress is a nice-looking kit, as are several of the Tamiya kits (I'd like the Turbo Optima Gold as well if I could find one in stock). I think I'm off to a good start though. Not to get too far off-topic, but do these kits come with grease/shock oil?
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