lee82gx2

thanks for replying, are the parts ok for puttering around? I mean not to race or jump or anything, just maybe a few wheelies and tumbles? Where i live 3D printing services are pretty expensive as it has not yet picked up sufficient critical mass, and I am also a bit hesitant to pay for 3-4 iterations of prints (example, a small piece of TPU bumper spring was quoted USD15 excluding shipping). Self printing on the other hand I can manage. I am ok with tinkering with the design as I have the necessary skills. I am not ok with parts just crumbling or disintegrating easily and making the whole thing unrewarding lol.

hi, may I ask what kind of material do you print for the custom parts? I'm in the market for a 3D printer but obviously I have budget and space constraints (I live in a small apartment, with 2 kids and wife) for a full enclosed printer. Was hoping to learn if I can live with a open type like a Bambu lab a1 with not so advanced material to get by doing just exactly what you did here....

In another life (well the storage rack just beside my Tamiya) is a bunch of Arrma 1/8 and 1/10. 3s,6s, and maybe 4s if I get my way. The abuse they take is just next level compared to my Tamiya. Backflip, 15ft jumps, crash whatever. Its not that they are indestructible, they are built for destruction. But lately I've been getting tired of Bash wrench repeat because of the downtime, parts ordering from across the globe, and loctite curing (24 freaking hours!). I was even almost contemplating life as a crawler, but I think I've not yet reached that stage now. So yeah, my babied Tamiyas get a run about at silly speeds but not mayhem, just enough to get us excited but not enough to worry about combing through the whole internet for that broken driveshaft part that will cost more to ship than the part price. SOOOO cozy yeah!

For strength it is 12.9, you can have some nickel plate for corrosion resistance. There is no real way above this but these are usually for Arrma style 3s to 8s bashers. next 10.9 and then 8.8. If I’m not mistaken SS is below all of these hardness wise. titanium grade 5 is around the same as 10.9

I’d say every single screw threading into plastic in the BBX is too shallow and will strip.

We’ve all been there especially in the first months and years of the hobby. Nothing ventured nothing gained. Lick our wounds and patch the holes in our wallets and go out there with what makes you happy and run. as an example I too re-bought a model I first bought, sold and went halfway round the entire company lineup to realize I started with a useful model. Now I’m a bit wiser I think but I’m paying a big price in $ paid.

I'd like to ask if even the pinion gear shaft is interfering with the original gearbox cover?

that is a wicked colour scheme, is that dye? May I know how to do it in more details? Regarding your modification, any reason for not just dremeling the motor shaft? Do you have a picture of the gears minus the modified cover?

Also bear in mind that our hobby IS still shrinking and there is a lack of competition and lack of demand. Case in point - Stargek - Singapore's biggest Tamiya dedicated dealer has just closed down.

In Japan, paint is still 600Y and thats precisely the price of a take out sandwich. I believe its not risen in price all that much over the years. Its gotten expensive to import and tranport the goods. This is a real fact since Covid, affects ALL industries. Even the actual price of a sandwich / cheap meal has risen 2x over the covid years. Factoring this, in my country it costs 5-7 cheap meals or 2 MacDonalds meals for a can of spray - how about you guys? Personally for only my location I'm using substitutes. A can of non tamiya spray / automotive spray is around 1 meal, and I just make do. Tamiya bodies are far too expensive, knock off chinese are only 1/3 or 1/2 here.

I compared an Arrma 3S to a TT02 / DT03 and there is no doubt which one is sturdier. And thus my return to RC world began with Arrma. You get all the slipper clutch / heavy duty plastics / 12.9 steel hexes / large pitch gears in an RTR package. But, I yearned for the kit build and I realised that you can only get those from Japanese kits and certain high end racing kits (pointless for a hobbyist like me). Then I realize Tamiya is just a build and appreciate hobby, we are all looking at HW1060 here. Out there nothing short of Castle Mamba or HW Max6 is acceptable.

thanks but the motor shaft is actually 3.175mm, there are 2 versions of the motor. I'm good to go? Id like to have everything ready before building the kit thank you

Hi guys, will the motor I'm planning to use fit? is it too long? I'm thinking of 3800kv on 2s with the stock gear, I don't really need it to go warp 9.

oh my, we are so similar. Technics?

I am also pretty into Lego if you guys dig that. Its a different type of joy, and another deep pit to sink your cash into. Between that and RC, you have many ways to drive your spouse into irritation with the space and finance and time spent away from her. I was almost able to afford a fast car too. Until I realized I hardly have the time and space to unleash the horses where I live.