
Sandboy
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13 GoodAbout Sandboy
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Sydney, NSW, Australia
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1/10 off-road cars
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
The retro racers at our club with TopForce Evo’s were surprised too with the TD4 car. Now the TD4 is discontinued it makes me wonder if the car will achieve cult status like the original Avante. Oh the irony.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
@Howards thanks for the really great answer. Much of your list I’ve pretty much got sorted ready for tomorrows club meet. There is probably a Noob goes racing thread to go through but I might be back with questions. I was curious about more front weight. Im running a shorty down the centre away from the rear. Would you still look for more weight up front?- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
@Howards Just curious with your setup, great win off-road, but would you be changing anything for carpet racing for example? Also its been commented on in other posts about the relatively poor turning performance of the TD4, have you done anything to your car to fix this, or does it come down to driving skill (which I’m sadly lacking)?- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
Great result, Perhaps the mud guards are a good idea- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
@Howards Thanks for the notes, to be honest I’ve shortened both the front and rear shocks for a shorter eyelet. I am trying to reduce ride height but at the same time stop the chassis bottoming out on a drop. At the moment I’ve gone for stiff springs, and middle range differential oil. I need to test this out on the track I must also start recording my settings. Just for background information, is it good practice to have shocks in the same plain of motion as that for compression. I noticed the rear shocks on the TD4 are slightly off vertical in the side view. So I used a couple of spacers on the upper shock mount to place the shock in a more vertical plain. My rational is more to ease the shock piston motion, and minimise bending of the piston. But I could be totally wrong, and it makes negligible difference.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
I thought I would add the final photo with the cables tidied up. In the future I would like to modify the front shock mounts. Basically to add more adjustability on the height of the chassis- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
It’s a Hobbywing brushless Juststock 13.5T, with an either a 29T or 30 T pinion. I soldered the power cables in the direction away from the motor- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
So assembling the parts now. Using the CF plate meant that there was an uplift on the driver, which was a problem using the revive RC body. So a few tweaks to the cross chassis bar. Also I’ve added body posts to mount the cross chassis bar. So now to remove the battery I just need to remove the body pins and lift the driver out and slide the battery out. This works a treat.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
the CF plate used to mount the ESC cooling fan and remains of the cross sectionthe cross section remains I’m using this to mount the cross chassis brace using a body clip.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
My collision was not heavy, probably more unlucky. But the plastic snapped cleanly, so no bending, or give. Which put me off using them. I should also admit that in my initial runs my steering was horrendous. Then I realised in moving the steering servo from one side of the car to another had reversed direction. So I probably had plenty on mini crashes before the suspension arm snapped. For the hubs I did try the Yeah Racing Al hubs for 201 I think but the amount of toe in was stupendous. Even when trying to reverse it with the Al rear suspension mount. Again all this made me go with the XV01 hub. At the time I was upgrading my Durga to RRR so it was a simple add on for the order.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
The battery door printing took a little play to get sorted with version 7 being the closest option, but basically it's just a dust cover. Paul at Bezerk RC 3D printed this off, as well as cutting the carbon fibre plate that I'm coming too. Because whilst I now had room to push the battery back, I still needed to modify the chassis cross over piece to allow the battery to swing up and come out of the chassis. So I had to cut this piece up well and truely. The aim of the carbon fibre plate was to stiffen the side of the chassis with the Mk 7 battery door, provide a point for the ESC cooling fan to screw too, and provide an anchor point for the cross section to be mounted too. The cross section I thought I would use body pins to clip to the chassis, so if I remove the pins, I can remove the cross section, and lift the battery out.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
Hopefully I can upload the photo's soon, but basically I've moved the esc to the edge of the car chassis, at the point where the TD2 battery door would be. I had to take the esc cooling fan off to complete this. But then with the help of a friend on CAD I came up with a bespoke "battery door". Much thinner than the original TD2 door, almost a bulge on the side of the chassis. But basically with the ESC to one side there is a clear route for the shorty battery to slide back towards the motor and out of the car.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
Next up was swapping the differentials from ball to gear diffs. This was more for the carpet racing discussion, and having adjustment with different oils for better cornering. Something I'm keen to explore but I've got 7k on the front gear diff and 5k on the rear gear diff. The gear diff itself was from Yeah Racing TA06 unit but with metal gears and rods. Again BuggyDad did some great write ups on this, and use of TFR seals. What amazed me though was how much lighter the gear diffs were compared to the ball diffs, circa 10g per unit difference. Anyway I'll see how successful this is in future race events. Whilst the gearbox hood was up I changed over plastic bevel gears to metal and metal idle gears. Shimmed everything again so it was snug. At this point I noticed I had constructed the slipper clutch wrong, and so corrected the mistake with no damage noted. I worked hard to keep the steering servo on the original design side of the car (as in the model there is more room). I tried swapping XV01 steering arms, but basically having the main drive shaft on the same side meant I couldn't squeeze the steering arm / steering turnbuckle into the same space. So basically I moved the steering servo over to the other side of the car. Again many great discussions and pictures on this so no need to repeat. My other point that I wanted to keep was the battery in the front position down the middle of the car. Just looked a great way to keep the weight forward. But the downside of removing the battery was a pain. So next was how to tweak the car to allow an easier battery swap.- 1153 replies
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The Tamiya Super Avante #58696 Information and Pictures
Sandboy replied to Mechanic AH's topic in General discussions
I thought I would add to this build discussion. About a year ago I decided to build the TD4 as its Tamiya's most modern chassis and has all the modern components. Sure the body is not everyone's cup of tea, but that's fairly straightforward to change. So news over Christmas that the TD4 was discontinued was a little disappointing.But then again, TD4 Evo in 2025 would be interesting. Anyway over the year I collected all of the hop ups, with the aim of running the car at my local outdoor (carpet) track. I'm a novice driver, so I've been trawling various threads to maximise my TD4. The main items I liked about the build. It has all of the modern items e.g. slipper clutch, adjustment on toe in / out geometry of shocks. So basically something that I can learn to adjust. Seemed pretty robust too. So first off the block for changes was the rear suspension arms and hubs. In this thread there is the mod by BuggyDad changing over to the DB01 suspension arms. I have to add that I did try to Dremel out the original TD4 suspension arms at the XV01 hub end. But at the next race meet, the suspension arm snapped at the XV01 hub. But using the DB01 arms was an easy swap. I did go with they Kyosho arms, but again could of used DB01 universal joints. On the XV-01 rear hubs, I did check the XV-01 build manual and there was the recommendation to fill empty holes with grub screws. I did this, mostly as it couldn't hurt and I could see the logic. I have used the TD4 stabiliser bars. But had to tweak the bar ends to fit the DB01 suspension arms. I think it was a short 4mm open face, ball end, fitted to the TD4 vertical post, followed by a 5mm closed cup long ball end to connect to the stabiliser bar.- 1153 replies
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