Crucial

XV01 is 1530 grams with 57:43 F:R weight distribution TT02 is 1334 grams with 48:52 distribution, both using the same short lipo. You could add 200 grams to the front of the TT02 but i suspect it's handling problems are largely suspension geometry based stemming from the fact everything is set to 0 from the factory to facilitate changing wheelbase and rideheight with swapping bits around with all the design compromises that entails.

I had exactly the same thoughts, i think the fundamental difference in handling between the two is; the XV01 goes where your front tyres are pointing (like a real car) and the TT02 goes where the shell is pointing, and you just use the steering to rotate the shell, like an old 80's video game My xv01 has 2700kv brushless and the TT02 4400kv but they are about as fast in lap times. The TT02 REALLY needs excess power to be able to rotate the chassis with power oversteer to get round corners well.

This and reducing unsprung weight in full size vehicles, not sure it's such an issue in RC with plastic/alu shocks weighing as little as they do.

Turned a set of aluminium gearbox shafts for my M03 and MF01X, quite a nice weight saving 9g down to 3g fro the M03 and 52g down to 17g for the MF01x

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Prices are + P&P which is £2.80 for large letter or £3.40 for small parcel, can post outside of the UK but please ask for a quote. Set of 4 Tamiya 50476 Rally block Tyres NIP £14 Tamiya 53663 Ball Diff for TT01 TT02 and others £30 Built up but never run Tamiya WRC Rims, fitted with foams and glued tyres £14 Fitted to shelf queen and never run. Tamiya 53345 M03 (et al) toe in rear uprights NIP £6.50 Flysky RX FS-GR3e (used) £4

This will be the case for the vast majority of hobby parts, inhouse manufacturing is the exception rather than the rule, especially in a low volume industry like this. They'll be subbed out batches to machine shops that are making scaffolding clamps the next month and camera tripod thumb screws the next. FWIW i have several Xtraspeed spring sets and they haven't lost spring rate after a hundred or so runs, and they are pretty consistent rate wise between batches, so it's a thumbs up from me.

Couple off mm worth of 3mm internal diameter silicone tubing on the shock shafts above the bottom spring perches to act as bump stops should do it.

I could modify the existing cad and run you a set off depending on how similar the wheels you need are, do you have a picture of these rims? Things to consider are; what track width you need, clearance from the wheel to the fazer hubs etc as the 3dp wheel design is different from a std injection moulded rim, what scale rim diameter you want (i have painted part of my 3dp rim to appear like it's part of the tyre so my rim appears to be 17" rather than the usual 20" of regular 1/10 rc wheels ) Feel free to PM me.

Thanks, yes they are FDM printed and CAD'd up in Rhino. Primed in automotive black rattlecan paint and the centers painted with Vallejo Metal Color gold+copper mix. Pretty durable for running as well.

It's the achillies heel of the tech, stuff in tension fails 100% of the time (in time, could be weeks, could be years) and screw holes are likewise. It's no biggy for me as i just print another, but for someone paying for printing services it's a PITA and unless a part is really basic, you can never orient the part just so. (Moisture embrittlement is the other problem for the cheaper PLA style materials.)

I had an old killerbody Tipo33 shell that was on a schumacher SST that went long ago, and a TT02 that didn't get much love last year. Time to crack out the CAD and 3d printer, and 16 hours later, new bodymounts and a set of Tipo 33 style deep dish staggered rims complete the look. Should give me motivation to drive it this year!

Definitely, but a man with a lathe is going to want £100+ to knock these out in such small quantities, and 3dp sintered metal isn't going to be much different price wise.

Looks light duty so you shouldn't have a problem with anything PLA+ or better. Only issues will be threads in soft plastic so the M2-ish looking machine screws need to be set and forget or you need to print yourself a few spare adapters when you get them done, the threads will strip eventually if you keep loosening and tightening. Tolerances are always an issue with 3dp so the fit of the hex may not be right 1st time and might need adjusting. If you have no luck finding a service i can do them for you for £20+ return post for a set of 8.

Post link, the suitableness of the method depends on the design of the part, i've printed many 100's of bits for RC and some just don't work in any 3dp material for love nor money and some last for ever in bargain basement PLA.