Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

1 Neutral

About MixMasterMax

  • Rank
  1. That's what it looks like. Pinion is on right side up I may have figured it out now, though. If you look at the instructions, it says there should be a distance of 14.5mm from the base of the motor to the top of the pinion. In the foto you can see that there are three "levels" you could measure from as a base. The top level (1/red) of the motor mount, which is clearly wrong. Then there is the bottom level of the motor mount (2/green) and then there is the level of the motor (3/white), which is the lowest. I measured the 14.5mm from the lowest level, i.e. from the motor - I thought the instructions were taking care to point out that I should be measuring from there, rather than the lower level of the motor mount. Looking at the instructions (for the 100-th time), it now seems that the "valley" between motor mount and motor is already accounted for and I may need to measure from the bottom level of the motor mount instead. That should put the pinion fully on the spur. Thanks for your replies, they put me on the right track to figuring it out!
  2. Hi, I have a Terra Scorcher (which I believe has the same gearbox as the Thundershot) and the spur gear is damaged - some teeth are broken out. Any ideas on what could have caused this? I'm running a 15 tooth pinion and a Torque Tuned motor, so nothing crazy. I've taken care to install the spur at 14.5mm from the motor per the manual (and re-measured after dismantling) even if it looks like the spur was not fully on the pinion. Nothing else seems damaged or even worn. It's only those 5-6 teeth, could it just have been a bad landing, perhaps right on the motor changing the angle of the pinion? Thanks!
  3. Thanks! That confirms my suspicion that it is more my driving. Starting off, it's hard to figure out if it is you or the car However, the jump I am having the most difficulty with is one where I'm just coming down a steep slope and then going right onto a small steep jump - I have also guessed that I may be having an issue where the back end bottoms out and the car gets a "kick" in the back. Anyway, I have now went out and splurged on the HiCap dampers and I'm stiffening up the front with 600cst front/500cst back following some of the threads on here - I'll see how it goes.
  4. I'm also just beginning to set up a Terra Scorcher for racing (on an indoor astroturf track) and I have a problem with it nose-diving over jumps. Often, the TS will take off and dip forwards, landing on the front bumper. Have you had any such issues? I'm not much of a driver, so it might entirely be me
  5. Yes, that a good way of looking at it. I was a bit disappointed at first to find that the set seemed to be "hobbled", but then thought that there must be a reason to build it that way besides intentionally downgrading it. I'll probably try it undrilled first, see how that goes and then drill + compare
  6. The Buggy Aeration Damper Set (#54028) comes with a cap that has a hole for a bleeding screw, but which is sealed and only works if you actually drill a hole into the cap in order to connect the bleeding hole with the chamber of the damper, as is mentioned at the beginning of the thread. Looking around some of the manuals, I've found that the TRF 417 manual explicitly instructs the user to drill out the cap in order to use the bleeding screw. However, the instructions for the Damper Set as well as e.g. the instructions for the TRF 501 instruct to leave the hole sealed and to simply fill the damper with oil and screw the (sealed) cap on. Are there any benefits in following the instructions and not drilling out the hole? I note that the TRF 501 is a buggy, while the 417 is not - perhaps that plays a role? Any thoughts on pros and cons of using the bleeding screw (or sticking to instructions) are welcome before I start drilling and possibly regretting it later...
  • Create New...