Aiwas

You would be hard pressed to find a new dual stick. For modern spread spectrum you probably would have to go to a 4 channel aircraft setup since no one makes 2 channel stick anymore. If FM is good enough I recommend doing Ebay or Mercari. There are plenty of unused and hardly used Futaba 2 stick out there. Most people don't want them. That said, consider trying a pistol grip. It is inuitive and you will not want to go back. I have been into rc for almost 40 years. I have had 2 sticks. I moved on. The only 2 stick I still use is the one that came with my Nikko Dictator. Besides nostalga, it is a great radio with overpowered RF so even with AM I never lost range.

I did find the white spur gear in a box and put it on. I have the 20t pinion it came with but noticed the mesh was a bit loose. I put a 24 tooth on instead. Wow! Not slow anymore. Too fast for the ole street test. Need more space.

The first 5 responders understood the question and covered the subject thoroughly. I'm considering this topic closed.

I may be interested.

I read a review somewhere that mentioned that tamiya has improved plastics on some models. I assume this includes the BBX. Does anyone know of other kits with improved parts? Perhaps the Blockhead Motors line?

I never had a Bruiser. I do have the Chinese clone though and it is fantastic. However, having spent hundreds of hours staring at every Tamiya product in the late 80s I immediately realized that the overpriced reissue Bruiser has a black painted classis. That is not original. The Chinese clone also has a black painted chassis. I doesn't look good to me. I want to remove the paint during my next mod. (Front steering servo). Has anyone tried to do that? I have tried to remove black paint from shock springs using every chemical you can imagine and sometimes it will not budge. But since the chassis is made 9f flat surfaces I think a little elbow grease can help. I once posted this question to a FB group and someone suggested that the metal would probably rust if exposed because it is probably not steel. Well, three years on, It doesn't rust when exposed. It is something very much like stainless steel if not stainless. You can verify that by looking at the wear marks the suspension makes to it. So, knowing that, what is a good paint remover?

Found it, thanks.

Can you give more to go on? Thanks.

Anyone make and sell custom decal sheets? I have two Nikko Dictators, one original and one modded which still have the paper decals. I have wanted to have these reproduced for ages but never got into photoshop. I can supply a low rez image sheet and photos with sizes to follow. But im reluctant to try and remove the paper until I have a replacement. Any recommendations?

It took more than 2 years for me to complete this model between family, work and university. So it is entirely possible I lost a part. I had the ball diff kit mixed in there so i could install it from the start. (And alloy wheels) One shock was also missing a plastic o ring. So it is possible I lost one or the other or confused the extra parts, or tamiya made a rare mistake. I spent yesterday literally combing through basement dust in a massive cleanup to find any errant parts. Did not find any. So, since I need to rebuild the shock and add much needed locktite here and there, I will obtain the appropriate spur gear. because this thing is sloooooooow. Thanks everyone.

When I Assembled it, there were two pinion options. Naurally I attempted to install the bigger one but could not make it fit. The motor placement seems fixed. How can I change pinions? Thanks

Thanks everyone.

Wow. Then Tamiya went to all that trouble to get scale suspension but then went with a giant mono shock. I wouldn't trade it for anything else.

Can anyone tell me if the wonky rear suspension is normal for the fighting buggy? It sits tilted at rest. Did I assemble something wrong? Thanks