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Marchie

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About Marchie

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  1. Every six to twelve months my hobby space becomes it's own 'project' and I enjoy re-organising to get more efficiency out of the same space (usually to accommodate a new actual project). Once I'm busy with the real business of building (or just life) it evolves into an 'organised' mess, which I'm quite happy with. I actually love seeing workspaces that appear cluttered but are also clearly organised, (a mechanic's garage is often a perfect example) it's a space that speaks of use and purpose - everything is organised just enough to alllow the person/people inhabiting the space to get on with whatever they are up to. It's what humans do - move in and bring an order and design that wasn't there before. @Saito2 As a (hobby) photographer, I love that picture of your workspace - it is full of detail and interest and speak volumes about what work/fun goes on there. (Don't want to derail the thread but I'd love to pics of other people's workspaces, cluttered or neat!).
  2. I was thinking Lipo probably was my best option to save weight… Guess I’m just too attached to zero-maintenance, zero-worry of nimh. If I were to dip my toe into Lipo so to speak, could I get away with a simple charger like a G.T. Power B3? Or is that just asking for a house fire? ($100 battery plus $200 charger is a rich buy-in)
  3. Have really enjoyed this thread. There really is something brilliant about that era when there was no ‘right’ way to make a chassis. For me, I love to build something beautiful and see it come alive around a track (or yard). If I hadn’t built it, it wouldn’t feel like mine. If it isn’t beautiful, at least in it’s own way, then what’s the point? And if it doesn’t run, then it feels like all the above is wasted. I guess that’s my crazy
  4. Having a great time running my Avante Black Special, but I have to say it’s noticeably heavy compared to my other cars. I’m wondering if anyone has experience reducing the weight on these? (Probably the same advice as for any car really) I figured I want to trim 100g off to actually notice the difference, and I’m wondering if that’s even possible and at what price? The aluminium rod ends look like an obvious starting point, perhaps titanium screws, but it seems I could easily dump $200 or more just to destroy the look of the car and only save 20g or so. Not opposed to spending, but would like to have a better idea of the potential gains before I do.
  5. I have an Avante steering set from them - no complaints.
  6. I had to get an aluminium steering set as the plastic parts on the sports steering set broke (don’t know if this is common though). The hi torque servo saver is a common upgrade (I have it installed but can’t say I really had any complaints with the standard one). The steering rack and the rear trailing arms regularly rattle loose, so remember to check them every few of runs. If you run the torque splitter, it has some play in it and I found it started to rattle loose after a while. I think you can add shims to tighten it up or something but I just swapped it for the centre-lock and haven’t had any problems since. Contrary to everyone else, I actually prefer the handling with the original Avante 2011 wheels (and they look better IMHO). Enjoy your build!
  7. Wow - just took it for some low-speed laps of the car park to wear the motor in and it’s actually too light - had to add ballast to the front to stop it oversteering 😉.
  8. She's done! Lame flake on Gunmetal, Super Stock, 8.4V nimh. (More pics in the gallery thread for those interested). I'm surprised how light it is - I picked up my Avante to put it back on the desk and felt like a brick by comparison! Double-thanks for the help with the body mounts!
  9. I used VQS hi caps, which weren’t too hard to find. Use hard oil and the two-hole pistons. As Twinfan said, you will need a different shock tower, which I have posted an stl file file for if you want to cut your own.
  10. Yeah I think they change the layout every year or so, previously it was a table-top which is much more forgiving! @River19 You are right, ‘slowest’ class is 2WD 17.5T. Thanks for the advice, it’s helpful to know what to expect!
  11. Hey Folks, As someone who never raced RC on a track BITD I'm wondering what to expect on a modern track relative to today's race cars. My nearest outdoor (dirt) track is intended for 1/10 electric but has these rather large pairs of jumps on it (just like any and every outdoor track I see these days) that are kind of an all-or-nothing proposition - land neatly on the down-slope of the second hump or face-plant into the front of it. I see the club guys leap across these gaps with ease, but I'm forever face-plating into the second hump due to a lack of speed. It's a good way to prove (or dis-prove) the durability of my cars, but no way to drive long-term. I have an Avante and Boomerang both with the Super Stock motors and I guess I'm interested in knowing if it's just my beginner driving that needs more practice at carrying speed through corners, or if I need t go brushless to have a chance of clearing those larger jumps, OR if I'm simply not going to get a vintage Tamiya across gaps like that with any kind of motor without breaking it and should stop hammering my cars? (not that I really mind - fixing stuff is part of the hobby ) Looking briefly at footage of the 89 worlds, the track only seems to have single jumps, so I'm thinking 80's cars are simply not designed for this kind of air-show racing?
  12. Hi @Howards, I have also been looking for springs for the hi-caps (specifically harder ones). What springs did you end up using? Did you find that the big bore springs worked? BTW - big thanks to the OP - this is a super helpful thread!
  13. Yeah, it was! Kind of crazy That's a kind offer, thank you. I'll see if I have any luck with these spares, failing that I may be in touch to take you up on that offer, thanks again!
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