BennieBlind

Man you guys are a clever bunch of people. That is amazing that you can make your own parts haha. Finally got the chance to try the 048006-01 parts from Ampro. They fit the Re-release Bruiser 2012 perfect. So thats another challenge tackled. Now I have to figure out how to make the lights work.

So finally I found a trustworthy seller on the Ebay from Korea to deliver me the metal lower shockmounts! Weird that this isn't metal from the kit itself but i'm glad I changed it. The plastics were already starting to bend down. They feel sturdy and are thick enough to withstand some trailing I guess. Now we wait for the right AMpro wheel spacers. It has been somewhat a ride to get this right but worth it. Thanks Tamiya club people for your valuable insights. Only thing I need is some lights and call this project finished.

Part 3: As I'm almost done with upgrading the technical stuff I wonder if someone can recommend me a light kit that at least wil give the basic lights, blinkers and the roll bar lights. And what do i need to make the roll bar lights actually work? I've found out I probably can use some Toyota Hilux "High Lift" parts but these are on different part trees and this way it wil be very expensive to get that working.

Some proper looking shocks thanks to Tamiya Club!

Part 2: In my quest to score some lower alloy suspension mounts I encountered some sellers on Ebay. I've paid 50 euro for 4 pieces by a seller named just_goodies. They have send me some plastic parts instead and don't reply on my messages for the last 2 weeks so that must be a scam. I'm still searching for some and ordered some out of Korea. We will see if that goes better. It is strange these parts are so difficult to obtain and scammers are on every corner of the web. Somebody has a good address were I can find some pieces looking like the attachment? That the loose metal piece to go on the drive axle side is one piece with the actual lower shock mount?

So I bought the Tamiya re-release Bruiser and converted it to a mountain rider as I like the look better. I've followed the building thread of "RichieRich": https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/95511-re-release-tamiya-bruiser-and-hg-p407/& I've managed to place the RC4WD Gelande shock hoops and 80 mm shocks which is a huge improvement. I've als fitted a metal steering kit of HOT racing So i've tackled 2 of the 3 most annoying problems with this kit. I just want this to be a runner and not only sitting on the shelf. However I'm stuck on the wheel spacer problem. I've ordered the HG P407 parts on Shapeways from AMpro, assuming the HG P407 was an exact clone of the Bruiser, but unfortunately this is not the case. After measuring the hubs I've decided to give the p/n 048006-01 a try because in the thread they state it can be done (see attachement). On the Shapeways site it says it's not for a RERE. In the measurements of the Shapeways site state the inner hole is 25 mm and my metal wheel hub thingy is around 23 mm. So how is this actually fitted? Do I need to fill up the space or just put the screws through and they will keep everything centered? I have 16 mm hex button caps screws. I'm now wondering if this will fit the Re-release wheels. Can somebody show how this is going to work? Thanks for your time helping a rookie out.

I've ordered a servo saver from YEAH racing as a lot of upgraded stuff is already from them: https://www.yeahracing.com/aluminum-plate-servo-saver-black-ya-0557bk-00076135 And an Absima servo as I already have a CR4S transmitter and receiver: https://www.absima.shop/pp/absima-S60MH-6kg-servo-25t-metalgear.htm?shop=absima_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=2030002&t=19114&c=19129&p=19129 It is 25 T which I considered must fit onto the YEAH servosaver. I do hope it comes with a 23 T plate as well a 25 T as it seems to fit Futaba, KO and Sanwa Servo @Mad Ax Yeah; as described I only have part E5 mounted directly onto the output shaft. Only after reviewing the manual online of the original kit it struck me there needed to be more parts and after modding the stuff myself I feel stupid for buying this as some other flaws come to light. I've put some electrical tape around it to make it thicker; so that gives some more grip & I can drive 5 min before the wheels are completely off to one side. Well, as a newbie it's learning money I guess, but afterwards I've better had bought the kit new. Luckily there was done a great job on the paint of the body so it's not completely a misfortune. And i'm learning a lot of how-things-should-be-done! haha.

So I bought a second hand Willy and as soon if I hit something or try to jump the wheels stays in a turned position. I found out the dude who sold me this only put part E5 onto the output shaft of my Hitec HS 311. I'm not having part B6 or B11, B12. As the output shaft stands out of the plastic inside E5, I've put in a ring of metal wire and did some electrical tape around the output shaft to make it thicker So the part stays put when driving. Also the MC3 part I've made out of an ring I found in my normal collection of screws and washers. Should I stop using it this way as not to wear out the servo output shaft as it looks a little bit worn out already. And I have a servo saver ont the way and a new servo just in case. This is such a shame people make it like this.