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Scorpn

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Everything posted by Scorpn

  1. Kyosho were always more about racing than Tamiya - Their rere's just reflect that focus, updated for modern gear
  2. Sadly no - I moved to Napier about 15 years ago. I used to race up in Orewa but it was a pretty casual thing - people pretty much just turned up, no club stuff. Perths a bit of a step from Taradale!
  3. I did exactly this in the eighties, I have an old showroom entry under the Hornet section with photos - Sorry I can't load photos at the moment. Hornet Chassis, Wild One Wheels painted silver and a Parma adjustable front body mount, the Hornet rear mounts fit perfectly on the body where the colours meet at the back.
  4. I get it. Kyosho called their competition 2WD buggies Ultimas after they won the 87 world champs. The Triumph and Pro-X were never that popular, so Kyosho clearly went back to a popular name cashing in on their history. The first and second series of Ultimas used the same gearbox servo saver, steering and suspension arms (the black pro had long arms) so they were all variations of the same basic architecture, the first series were SWB while the second series were LWB. Ultima Trucks are like the RC10T series, based originally on the LWB Ultima II series. As for the RB - Racing Buggy perhaps? They did the same with the Lazer, going to the Lazer ZX5, clearly the Optima did not cut the mustard! The Sideways in the above pic is out of place - needs to go with the scale series cars and the Ultima II Green is actually a Turbo Ultima II (probably the rarest of all Ultimas)
  5. Hi Shenlonco, these are 1/24 scale - i would imagine they are quite small?
  6. Isn't Crash Cramer a fountain of knowledge of old Futaba stuff?
  7. That is possibly not a bad thing. As the owner of a M01 mini in green, M01 Monte in red, M03 mini in blue, M03 Monte in red, M05 mini in red (I resisted the M05 Monte - how many red minis can you have?) and a Mardave ministock for fun I cant really justify a M07 or M09. And if they did: What colour would the boxart be? I mean that is a huge question!
  8. I completely agree. I have just finished a Mk1 Stinger and there are no decal positioning guides in the manual. So off to the net, but I could not find any decent pics of the right side or rear of the boxart body. Not only is the body a bit different to boxart (has a big lump on the left side of the cockpit) but some of the decals that are on the decal sheet are a completely different size (the big stinger and the 1/10 racing buggy) or colour to the boxart, or they simply don't fit the body - I used Marwans painted body as a guide, which turned out really well - his is probably the best Mk1 body I have seen.
  9. I could not believe the Stinger Mk1 had no brakes (I have never run mine - too scared!), but that brake doesn't look much better either, neat and tidy solution though
  10. In the late eighties, tamiya brought out the CPR esc/receiver units, these were shown in the manuals and the MSC were an add on, shown after the CPR page, but the CPR never came with the cars so which is correct? The manual or what you received? Clearly Tamiya had their preference as to what should be in the car but they bowed out to the extra cost of the CPR. (Not to do with the original topic but:- The Avante was designed specifically for the CPR units to be used and most normal ESC/Receiver combos at the time would not fit unless you removed the driver, but how many people have a CPR unit in their Avante?) Also the M03/TL01 series and many cars of that age originally came with a MSC but later versions came with an ESC so again which is correct?
  11. That TRF Astute is using a Falcon body, maybe a prototype TRF Falcon became the Astute?
  12. The first Tamiya RC car I saw was a grasshopper that my best mate had, his father worked overseas and picked it up when it first came out around 1984 (not one of the Mk1 GH though). A couple of years later I bought it off him and kept it for years, it was quite cool to own the first RC car you ever drove! But recently I restored it and gave it back to my mate so he could give it to his boy as his first RC car, three firsts and two generations!
  13. I just got a Kyosho Stinger Mk1 Nitro - Unusual because it is a 1/10 Nitro car with NO brakes!!!, none, nada, nil - Kyosho manual says it is to make it simpler
  14. Mr Ax has pretty much got it bang on. My advice - Dont try to do it all at once. Set up a club and a website and try to get some local like minded folk together. Our local On Road track started out with a half dozen guys. We got some cones - Small flat ones that they use for kids sports - cheap as chips to buy 20 or 30. You can set up and take down in minutes. Count your own laps, basic timer (Cell phone) to start and stop the race is all you need. Basic entry fee on the day for everyone (that gets banked to an account afterwards). Later we moved to plastic drainage pipe but that moved around a bit, and was hard on the cars in crashes, something to do with the shape of the pipe. So after the club had a steady membership (and spare cash). we bought some thin (5-8mm) plywood and cut it into 75mm strips then screwed two pieces together separated by little blocks of 75x50 wood every so often to make it rigid. By putting a longer bit on one end sticking out, we could join them by poking them together in a male /female type thing. Curves were made the same way as the thin ply bends well and stays in shape when screwed together. We made lots - amazing how far a piece of ply goes when you cut it into strips! That worked like a charm, and believe it or not was easier on the cars as well. One of the guys stored it at his shop and brought it down in a van - amazing how little space it takes when stacked in a corner and each piece is quite light. We became quite adept at making a decent track everytime, plus it meant that everyone was in the same situation of learning the track so a fairly universal car setup was a must. We raced M chassis minis and F1's with silver cans in a controlled class, plus open and restricted touring cars. At best we had 15 minis on track! We even tried Short Course trucks like the Slash and SC10 - with jumps - they were insane to watch and worse to drive on a narrow track - Very exciting for spectators. We found that the mini class which was basically straight out of the box was great for beginners and getting people involved as it meant that people could buy a car package, build it and go racing(some folk still managed to be unbelievably fast though!) With lipos and 3x five minutes races you only needed one battery. At the time we were racing in store car parks after hours, so twenty minutes to set up and sweep the track and we were off. A bit less at the end! The advantage was most places were happy for us to use the carparks as long as we did not damage anything and often they did not charge us at all which helped. We helped sell that by saying that with all of us hanging around it was like free security for their store! We then found a Basketball court that was not being used and negotiated with the local council to lease the courts at a good rate and with a semi permanent site, we store the track onsite now. The council also lets us use a hall as a wet weather venue, but the hall has some challenges around the flooring and poles etc. But it did take a few years and we needed to get the regulars to get the club funded. Now we have electronic timing, electricity to charge cars etc and use of the clubrooms!
  15. Get a 35 turn or 55 turn crawler motor, much slower, loads of run time and no speed to damage the car, I think I paid about $10USD for one which I put in a sandmaster, worked brilliantly but now of course it is too slow
  16. Personally I really like the look of this little guy. i have a fully restored original and have run/bashed/crashed many others over the years and still love the way it looks and doesn't handle! I don't want to run the original (too much time and money -a cheap beginners car -HA!) but would have no such reservations with a black one
  17. Handy tip for the OCD brigade - Using the 4mm Gold Corally connectors, you can colour match the heatshrink to the motor wire colour and have nearly invisible connections if you cover the whole connector! I use Anderson Powerpoles for my batteries, Deans for my brushed motor connectors and Corally for the brushless but as mentioned above I might move to Corally for all my motors connections. I raced for a number of years and never wore out/burnt any of the above connectors
  18. The rear lower shock mounts are slightly stronger on the Rere hornet - plus they are newer - Tamiya made the hornet D parts out of rigid plastic, which cracked easier especially when they get older
  19. One of the photos shows the chassis with the uprights in Black (or sometimes very dark grey). Maybe they are option parts?
  20. That would be good. New reasonably priced decals! (Just as long as they keep the spotlight mounts on the nose cone !!)
  21. I strip, clean and reassemble all the cars I buy now unless I built them new, like Greg I had some very nasty surprises and some odd things like a Sandmaster missing one diff bearing - My AvanteI built my self and it tended to break the suspension bits - May have had something to do with my driving into things
  22. Plus one for the slash, they look awesome on road, the way they lean around corners and as mentioned the tyres are quite durable, and having driven a 10.5 brushless at full noise off a jump straight into a tree (not my finest hour) it rolled onto its wheels and carried on (cue big OUCH from spectators when it hit the tree). There are you tube videos of people jumping them over houses!, Not in the same league but a blitzer (stadium or beetle) is a great multi purpose car, low and wide
  23. More aerodynamic?, I know when I raced they were as cheap as chips, you could get 4 for less than the price of 2 Tamiya rims
  24. I raced a TT01 a few years ago and found the best tyres on tarmac were proper touring car tyres, tamiya tyres were quite slippery. See if you can find a touring car racer and get a set of their practice tyres, normally they have quite a bit of life left and are quite cheap, but come with plain disc rims.
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