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About Verskis

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  • Birthday 07/28/1984

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  1. Using a diff or spool on a non-driven axle is interesting. I'm not completely sure I want to add the complexity, even if quite minor, to the car. In my opinion, one of the nicest features on 2wd cars is the simplicity. Should be pretty easy to test that though. Maybe I'll try it if I can't get the car to behave without.
  2. "Not rolling so frequent", only a couple of times per event 😄
  3. Good points, and now that I think about it, the Slash should have a bit more rear toe and also some antisquat on the rear suspension, those should help keeping it more stable during the braking. Antisquat should work as a pro-squat during the braking, right? That should reduce the weight transfer to the front, at least on theory. It would also be quite easy to test, just some spacers more under the front mounts of the rear suspension.
  4. Yes, stock rear toe. I actually thought that it would be 2 degrees on the XV-01, buy anyway, more would be good. Does anybody know, how much rear toe could I achieve, if I changed the rear suspension pin holder to this? https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/option-parts/rc-xv-02-alum-adjust-sus-mount/
  5. Thanks, nice to hear somebody else is also converting perfectly fine 4wd cars to be less able The last point, about the front droop affecting braking, leaves me scratching my head. How can the droop have an effect, when the front suspension is actually compressed during braking? Could it actually be affecting the settling of the car, once you release the brakes?
  6. I have a couple of 2wd Traxxas Slashes. They are quite a lot easier to brake, although of course not nearly as easy as 4wd or fwd. I know 4wd braking feel cannot be achieved, I just would like to hear about the braking techniques and setup tips of M08, M06 and other onroad RWD car drivers.
  7. Maybe next time I try to sauce the rear tires much more than the fronts. Or maybe no prepping at all for the fronts.
  8. No front diff on this car. Well, I could add one, as there is still stock XV-01 rear gearbox working as a front shock tower holder, but I'd rather like to keep it simple.
  9. I'm not going to race the car as RWD, as there are no racing classes that allow such an abomination. This is just for fun. The main target is to drive it on gravel as a rally car in the summer, but now I lowered and stiffened it up for some carpet track action. Anyway, I don't want to have a gyro. Seems like cheating to me, even if I'm driving all by myself Where's the fun if the car drives by itself?
  10. Yes, Ride tires, used as spec tire on a racing series here in Finland. Sometimes I use additive, if I want to get the grip immediately, but sometimes I don't bother as it doesn't seem to make much of a difference once the tires have warmed up. Seems that I just have to learn to brake very early and carefully. It just seems strange to me that when I watch some videos on youtube where M08 cars are racing with M07, the M08 doesn't seem to brake much earlier. Are those M08 drivers just super skilled? I had this XV-01 as an FWD car before changing it to RWD, and I could brake much harder and later with the FWD. Because of that, I am very much slower around the track with the RWD. Maybe I just need to practice much more. I hoped that the RWD XV-01 would be as fun to drive as the RWD Slash is. I didn't realize the driving characteristics would be so much different.
  11. Me too! Totally off topic, but reminds me of the subtitles in Star Wars movies shown in Finnish television when I was a kid: C-3P0 was written as See-Threepio and R2-D2 was Artoo-Detoo Back to on-topic, please compare the driving characteristics of both the basic Teetee-Ohtoo and the SR variant when you have built and driven both of those, I'm really interested to hear how much of a real difference there is.
  12. Thanks for the reply. I need to get an adjustable rear suspension mount to be able to get more toe in on the rear. There is obviously one very big difference on 1:1 and 1:10 RWD cars: the RC car does not have any front brakes. Therefore you should try to brake only with the handbrake on your track car and then share the best setups after that. Just joking I actually have some experience from 1:1 vehicles with only rear brakes, as I raced karts some 20 years ago. The braking needs to be done on a straight lines on karts as well, but there is no suspension so you can turn in pretty much immediately after you release the brake pedal. It seems that on the RC car the suspension is "delaying" the weight transfer effect.
  13. I guess there are many RWD onroad enthusiasts here, as the RWD M-chassis cars seem quite popular. So, a question about braking: how to do the braking, and how to setup the car to minimize the possibility of rear end spinning out during braking? I just converted my Tamiya XV-01 to a mid-rear-motor RWD car (quite similar as M08, just a bit bigger. Picture below.) using Embieracing carbon chassis kit, and went to a local carpet track to test it. Otherwise the handling was pretty good, but the braking is really, really difficult. I get that with RWD car the braking is hard, but for example my rear wheel drive Traxxas Slash is nowhere near as hard to brake without spinning as this car. Slash is of course much bigger and more stable car, so I guess this one will always be more twitchy, but is there a special technique I should use when slowing down? Now I used 0% drag brake and 75% braking force, which results in pretty weak brakes with my weak motor and tall gearing. Still, the car is very prone to spinning out when braking, and even when braking first, then releasing the brakes and turning in only after that, it seems that the weight transfer is still happening and the rear end steps out too easily. Should I brake even earlier and just allow the car to freewheel a little before turning in? Or is the trick to add a little drag brake? And are there some setup tricks that could help calming down the car during braking? I tried to reduce rear droop to allow for less weight transfer to the front, but that didn't seem to have much effect. Stiffening the front springs and front rollbar seemed to help a little. What about the diff setup? I had my diff really loose, would a stiffer diff mean more stable braking, or would it be actually even worse? And front toe? I had very slight toe out on the front, should it be completely straight or even toe in? Although to me it seems that toe in would actually worsen the problem, as the rotating car would have even more weight on the outside front tire, which would be turning the car even more with toe in. Is my logic sound here, should I actually add more toe out?
  14. It's actually a mosasaurus according to my son 🙂
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