Thunderbug

They discharge more quickly over time if they are stored in warm conditions. Someone else may be able to help you with regards to optimal charge currents and mAh ratings with NiMH batteries as I have very little experience with these. I'm still living in the dark ages and using NiCds in my cars.

Yeah, that's about right. I'm assuming that when you say mAh battery you mean NiMH. NiMH batteries don't hold their charge as long as Ni-Cds. It depends on storage temperature as well. The higher the temperature, the quicker the discharge. 1 week is pretty quick though. Most sites will tell you that a NiMH battery holds its charge for about 30 days although in my experience it appears to be alot shorter than this.

G'day Stickman. I don't live in WA but am an Aussie living here in the UK. I had a 10 day touring holiday around the South West of WA back in 2004 which we based out of Perth. I'd never been to Perth before but absolutely loved the area. There is so much to see and do that I will probably go back again. As any true Aussie is, the locals are very laid back and friendly. The suburbs are very nicely laid out as well, especially along the Swan River. There is a pretty good Night-life as well with some top notch restaurants. Keep in mind though that it can get quite warm in summer. There are some great websites that tell you all about the place as well. Darren

I did a bit more research into the problem by going onto the Tamiya Parts compatability part of their website and, low and behold, they are saying that the stock wheels are not compatible with the TB01 Long Suspension Arm kit. They do list the wheels that go on the Lancer 7 as being compatible though. I wonder if this means the Lancer 6 wheels have an offset. I wish Tamiya would list more details on their products. The only detail I can find regarding the stock rims is that they are 26mm wide. I'm going to buy the Lancer 7 rims to see if this helps. I like the look of them more than the 6 anyhow, so fingers crossed.

Yeah, normally the shell is down lower on the posts. This is what it looks like going by the instruction set height. But if I raise the front of the body while keeping the back down, the car looks odd, even though the arch moves away from the tyre.

At last some pics. First one shows the rear tyre forward offset against the wheelarch. This one shows the rear and how much the wheel is outside the arch This one is the front wheel. The rear again and some build pictures. Thunderbug (Darren)

Thanks for all the ideas fellow clubbers. As I said earlier, the whole kit is built from new (stock) with the LSA kit being the only major upgrade (apart from bearings and ESC). I will try and get some piccies posted to highlight the problems but it might be a couple of days till I get my hands on a camera. So bare with me if this topic pops up again after a few days. I will of course have to figure out to post pictures and if I am able to. Oh yeah, the car will most probably be used for smooth dirt off-road. Another thought is maybe the body was slightly deformed from new. Thanks for the help, Darren

I wish that was the only problem. The wheels are sticking outside the arches by about 1mm and any suspension movement quickly makes the tyre hit the top of the arch right on the edge, not inside. I've pulled it apart a few times now looking for a problem I might have done, but nothing. The wheels are fully seated on the hex hubs which are the 6mm that came with the LSA kit and the build looks right. I'm pretty close to giving up and going back to the stock arms. In it's current state, if I run it, there would be too much interference between the tyres and body and I don't want to trim the body and have oversized wheel arches. Just wouldn't look right. Measuring between the tops of the wheel arches comes to 186mm but the wheels measure 188mm with the LSA kit. As the body curves in towards the bottom the difference increases. Might have to borrow someones camera to show the problem.

Had a big think about this tonight when I got in and this is what I found. The left rear wheel appears to have slightly more toe-in. Not a great deal but noticable. This seems to cause this tyre to hit the front of the wheel arch on the body. The right side is about 2mm in from the front of the arch. The Tamiya body is measured at 185mm in width where as the chassis with the LSA kit measures in at187-188mm. This explains why the wheels are outside the arches slightly. With this in mind, if you do upgrade to the LSA kit, should a 190mm wide body be used instead? What is the difference between a Tamiya body and one classed as 190mm? Was this just an oversight on my part? Apart from the motor, bearings and LSA kit, everything is stock. It is a new build as well and hasn't been run yet so there is no collision damage such as twisting or anything.

Thanks for the check Super. I have double checked my build and all the uprights and arms appear to be correctly orientated as per the build instructions and they even look the same as yours. Can't figure this one out. Will have close look this weekend. Darren

Just did an interesting check between the original rear arms and the LSA rear ams. When placed on top of one another there appears to be a 2-3mm forward offset on the LSA arms where the uprights attach, which obviously shortens the wheelbase of the car by the same amount. This explains why the rear tyres rub against the front of the wheel arch. Has anyone else noticed this? I wonder if it is a design fault. Darren

The wheels on the car are the ones that came with the kit. Unfortunately, I don't have a digital camera yet so am unable to post piccies. I will go back and look at the hubs to see if they are swapped or not at the rear. With the LSA however, the wheels tend to be just outside the wheel arch on the body. I thought about lifting the body a hole or 2 but it tends to make the drivers appear in an unnaturally low postion and it is the scale looks I like about this car. They are brand new body posts as well. I'll see what I can come up with though. Thanks for the ideas. Darren

Just installed the Long Suspension Arm set on my Evo 6 and now all the tires rub on the wheel arches. This limits the suspension travel to about 2-3mm before they hit the tops of the arches. The rear of the wheels also rub against the fronts of the rear arches quite considerably as though the centre of the wheels is not ligned up with the centre of the arches. Have I done something wrong? If anyone else has installed the LSA kit on their TB01 rally car, your help is needed. Thanks, Darren

I couldn't agree more with you Paul. I ordered a Frog on the 30th Dec. and it also arrived on the 5th Jan. Stella have got to be one of the best international suppliers I've ever dealt with. Thank you Stella for outstanding service. Darren

For me it would have to be: Brat Wild One/FAV Sand Scorcher and Super Champ Boomerang Improved Holiday Buggy Mind you. I'd still probably buy a Hotshot and a Rough Rider if they did those. A Frog will be heading my way soon as well.

I'm just about to finish building my first TB01 chassis and have found it a bit tricky to build. One thing I found was that the radio gear doesn't have a lot of room to sit in. After placing my receiver in position, I found I had to move it as it interfered with the upper (brace?) Also can be quite tricky to get the prop shaft into position without the counter gear sliding off all the time. It is certainly the hardest Tamiya chassis I've built but with a little patience you will be rewarded.

Nah. Doesn't do it for me. Too space age looking. Would love to see a Boomerang re-re though. Now there is one that tickles my fancy.

Check out the Time Tunnel Models website. They have some King Blackfoots in stock for £119. Not only that but TTM are great to deal with.[^]

They are both the same size so it looks as though, from what you are saying Biggus, that I need the TG10 bumper if I understand you correctly.

Hi, I'm about to start building a Lancer VI TB01 and want to fit a foam bumper (I'm bound to hit something) and in the manual it states that the TG10 urethane bumper is an option. Will this fit onto the TB01 bumper or do I have to get the TG10 bumper (which isn't mentioned) to fit the foam to? I've searched the forums but can't seem to find a clear answer. Any help appreciated. Darren

I'm not trying to open old wounds here but Chris's Sand Scorcher joke photograph features in this months Digital Photographs on the Tamiya website. Take a look here: http://www.tamiya.com/english/pachi_digita...oto_gallery.htm

Well, for me it has to be the Wild One, FAV, Brat or an SRB. The reason I say SRB is because it interests me in that they were truly off-road because of the sealed radio box etc. The fact that they were able to go through water without rubber bagging everything just adds so much realism for me. I could add a few more to the list and I'm sure everyone else could as well but it looks as though most people have different tastes and Tamiya won't be able to please eveyone. Let's just be happy that they are re-releasing anything at all.

One things for sure. We have to support and encourage Tamiya with the re-releases by actually buying them. The more we buy, they will certainly consider doing more. I know that I will be doing my bit with making a purchase or 2 soon. Bring on the Brat and Wild One.

Personally, I hope this does lead to the re-release of the Brat. I love the Frog as a buggy but for me the Brat was far more interesting and I was never able to get one as a kid. If this release mirrors the Hornet re-release with the top model on that particular chassis being released first and the then the lower specd. one, you never know your luck. It can't be that hard with 380 motors in production. All you need are the tyres and the body. Fingers crossed hey.

I let a the son of a friend of ours drive my Super Hornet once and, I kid you not, he drove it about 5 feet up a large tree trunk at full speed before it stopped and crashed back down. unbelievably, no damage was done. Never again though.