
Mr. Radar
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2 NeutralAbout Mr. Radar
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Location
Dortmund, Germany
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Interests
Sports (mountainbiking, running), sci-fi, rockets, lasers
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Had the chance to go for a spin. It reacts really lively to steering input. Definitely need more practice while also reducing max power output of the motor. The dust cover does a great job at keeping dirt out it also keeps the heat in. I might add a few venting holes above the motor. And go for smaller batteries to limit driving time. The ground was a little tricky as well. Hard-pack with gravel on top. I also took my Kyosho Beetle out and that one turns like a bus compared to the TT-02. Or rather, it doesn't turn at all under the slightest bit of power. All in all, great fun!
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Nevermind, it's a nice buggy So, I need to try this method at some point.
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Yes, I know. I have the body kit. But I suppose there are no aftermarket ones...
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Interesting, have you ever used clearcoat to "seal" masked areas to prevent color bleed? I suppose this could help with getting sharper lines.
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We'll I guess I need to try once weather improves. Thanks for your input.
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Yes, I noticed that I reached the limit of range of motion of the suspension. Going further definitly does not make sense. Maybe to clarify, the 20 mm ride hight is in the settled state. Fully extended droop is 25 mm. But maybe I should lower it a little more. You are running ~32% of sag while I am sitting at 20%. Might be on the harsh side. On my mountainbike I run 25 to 30 depending on trail...if these two worlds are even remotely comparable... I built the shocks using the pistons with one hole. Would you consider this overdamped for this car? I noticed the soft plastic on the lower arms. There is practically no indication of when you start to strip the threading. Curious choice of material for this critical piece of the suspension. Will try it out once weather improves. I do not remember him mentioning these but thanks for the heads-up. Will replace them once the plastic ones fail. I actuall fitted the long eyelets on the shocks and mounted them in the upper position. Well, let's see how it goes. Thanks for your replies!
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I hear the Scorpions hex wheel drivers (KO-SCW020) are a sensible upgrade because it will enable a broader range of possible wheels. It's on the list for my Beetle as well. Once I finally get to run it properly. Winter in Germany is soooo annoying.
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Greetings, I have questions regarding the Mazda 3 body shell (51619). Are there any light buckets for this one? I couldn't find them anywhere. Regarding paint. I would love to paint it Soul Red Crystal. How do I get close to this color? One approach I came across was using Translucent Red PS-37 backed with gold. Did anyone here try this already? Thanks Karsten
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Hi everyone, I recently bought the Audi Quattro TT-02 and naturally wanted more ground clearance. So I modified the chassis as suggested by Mark Bryan on YT. Right now clearance is a bit over 20 mm which is enough for the moment since I do not want to touch drive shafts and cups. However, bottoming out the super mini CVA shocks now leaves a 5 mm air gap below the chassis. I'm fairly new to RC cars but understood that the chassis should bottom out before the shocks. Presumeably to not overstrain the shock mounts? Anyway, I do not intend to hit large jumps with this car but will this be a problem in the long run? What are my options? Either increase leverage ratio via the lower suspension arm which I do not think is possible or find a shock with the same length (~59 mm) and longer stroke? Thanks Karsten
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