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Anthroxoid

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  1. Oof! Well I suppose I’d rather have an arm go than have to replace the whole tub. Looks like a load of fun to drive, and despite the ‘obstacle magnet factor’ of RC cars a complete success.
  2. Thanks for the suggestion. I was looking at these and they’re using the same cans as Surpass, thus I was hesitant to spend a few bucks on one. I have seen a 13T-single listed over the last three weeks. I just wonder if it’s identical the Surpass—HackMoto V2 variant that I already have. That looks like a nice option! Thank you. Also the Yokomo endbell of their pink stock motor caught my eye when it first dropped over at RC Mart. Can seems to be the Surpass variant. Maybe it’s ’good enough’ as many brands are sourcing from that manufacturer.
  3. Long-time RC pilot and builder here, and happy to make a few suggestions for starting out in electric and flight in general: I’d strongly recommend investing in an RC flight simulator as your first “upgrade”. We didn’t have this option for obvious reasons BITD, though even experienced pilots will keep their skills fresh using a simulator. They are incredibly realistic in physics modeling these days, so you can go straight from crashing a few dozen or hundred times on a computer to taking your trainer out (preferably with a helper) for the first time and have a completely successful experience. Real Flight is a good choice, though it is costly. The graphics are “good enough” to convince your mind that it’s a real flying experience, and it utilizes a futaba-style transmitter so that transitioning to your model and back are seamless. You can see this sim here. Hobby-shop recommendations for just the aircraft side of things and needs are harder to pin down: What are you looking for in a source such as buying off the shelf RTF, knowledgeable advice, a buddy trainer, etc.? Do you plan to build your own models after getting decent at piloting? Budget? What is your goal for type(s) of aircraft that you’d like to successfully add and keep in your fleet? What country are do hail from? Will you fly legally registered with your gov’t and insured against liability or only be doing ultralight park flyer models in farm fields and whatnot? How do you feel about joining a club? Globally, Hobbyking has crapped out a wide assortment of RTF models though they’re currently under new ownership, and have a highly questionable ethics history (IP theft, fraud, and more). They were eventually a source of cheap gear that wasn’t total trash, and may return to being so again. Shipping fees are horrible. In the US we have Horizon and its subsidiaries, AMain, HobbyTown, and for competition sailplanes to beginner glider, probably the west coast is your best bet with Soaring USA. There are also a lot of good LHS still open on the west coast and gliders are popular in the state due to the abundance of flying sites. Anyhow, let us know what your answers are and maybe we can go from there. —XOID
  4. Yes, just the sticker price. We do not get hit with it in the US, unless you’re particularly unpopular with Customs. It is sometimes cheaper to import directly from China or Japan despite the slightly higher list prices compared to Tamico. Hopefully this doesn’t change as the trade wars march on.
  5. Tampico was just recently offloading their Avante BS kits for €316. It was I think a fair price for a rere aimed at redressing the nostalgia in new livery while making a small effort to improve the chassis. Demand will likely permit these higher asking prices for the original’s fame which surprises exactly nobody.
  6. Gosh I just love the proportions of that chassis. Those suspension arms are fantastically lengthened and are going to swing like butter. The whole design with the laydown gears and all just screams, “Made for racing!” . I have two of the B74.1Ds and they’re gorgeous designs (was so impressed by first bought the second for later). There are some further optimizations . Following point releases as always, though even the 2022 and newer 4WD cars are just absolutely bonkers when set out in modified indoor tracks. They go so fast out of the corners that they look to defy Newtonian physics. Additionally, they’re nice to work on which I’ve seen most manufacturers strive towards with their new 4WDs. Diffs pop out with ease, they’re super tunable, as is the entire car of course, and race ready OOTB. I’m loving @Pylon80’s build here and interested in 2WD off-road for the first time in ages due to the in-depth look at the engineering.
  7. No, sorry. I’ve gotten a few different scale light sets off of Amazon and ages ago, one from HobbyKing though I’d not really vouch for any of them (all Chinese stuff, probably fifteen cents worth of parts). There are plenty of options out there, however, so if you’ve got a third channel available the remote switchable feature is probably the only must-have thing (it’s a tiny ESC) though you could also go nuts with brake light and blinker mixing for fancier stuff. For just the two, the simplest thing would be a tiny driver and twin light bucket set with some decently bright bulbs—approved by reviews is always good. I’m sure that others here are more up to speed than I am as the ones I have are full scale light kits for trucks and boats and many years old. I do recall that Samsun was making some of the stupid-bright single LEDs and popular flashlight LEDs were in some of them as well.
  8. Thank you, and the color issue is challenging so much so that I’m not sure that I’ll like the results, so I’m stewing on it today (raining anyhow). If I simply remove the cobalt green there are much “easier” color progressions for contrasting against it, though it’s the real heart of what makes the ‘87 Worlds simple aesthetic so it needs to be carried forward into this model in order to meet the goals of the build. Locating some vintage club racing sounds fantastic as these things need pals to play with instead of rotting on shelves. I’m planning to haul a few of my old models with me next trip to the mainland US, then do as you’re doing in getting a good lap on with other oldies in the 4WD class. The 13T Spec class will be very lively for your Mids (both vintage Schumacher and SWB Mid setups run well here as such, just keep your belts relatively tight) and if going all-in on racing extremes there is room to lighten the Optima and to tune it quite well. The LWB kit does make it a rather different car to be fair, so it’s best to have both for track variation. I’ll look forward to your LWB build, and I think that my next one will also get stretched; SWB with wide fronts for tall turf bashing and if ever near a tight and rough infield course, and LWB dialed in for sprinting and/or modified class. Note that the lockover is good enough with the universals for tight tracks on either chassis, though the shorter Mid can be dialed in for extreme agility. It then becomes up to the driver to keep it pointed in the correct direction. The steeper rear toe angle blocks are a good choice for loose conditions with all else being equal, otherwise it is already a good driver OOTB. Either make good runners and are famous for these attributes thus IMO one cannot go wrong in trying either setup. For runner spares, stock up on front suspension parts and a both shock towers. You’ve otherwise already tweaked your Kosworks to be a competitive vintage racer. It’s going to run like mad. I’ll be interested to see if you further refine your kit after some time behind the wheel—perhaps some trialing of various tooth counts will be in order. More soon, and thanks for commenting. These old designs are just a joy to include and carry forward in our hobby, and so much more to chew on with some camaraderie. —XOID
  9. Everything except for the ESC has finally arrived, and as I took a look at both the box art and my standard Optima Mid for inspiration I do believe that there’s a settled color scheme. I’ll still utilize the PS-54 Cobalt Green in leu of a whiter matching mint green (it is the correct hue, but shaded a bit) and progressively deeper and bolder split chevrons across the deck. The original Optima Mid remains my favorite OOTB model with the Avante following close behind, so I’d like the color scheme to honor both prototype and release, yet still be original livery. Needless to say I will be spending some quality time masking, and naturally the weather has passed from hot and clear to 97% humidy and overcast. OK, well at least things are moving. At some point this morning I found a moment to trim and then fit the wing. I was determined to at least try the JJ Ultima winglet panels thus proceeded to turn my entire shop over searching for them. They were naturally still in their packaging inside of the small box that the kit comes in. At least an hour had elapsed between first look and final look through that box. OK, note to self: take more mental notes. The JJ winglets are just way too huge to go on this Custom LWB creation. I simply trimmed the smaller of the two wings down for strength and to add the profile most apparently-blended with the soft curvature of the body’s canopy and chines as they flare towards the rear suspension. The finished model looks like it’ll be as long as an Egress: Furthermore I’ve also decided that after break-in trials I’ll build a more cage-like wing stay from scrap carbon and aluminum tubing. Something about the ‘sawn off’ rear ends of the Mids has always seemed wrong and there is space to build a tubular, arcing rear without interfering with skyward landings. Anyhow, I’m missing some blues from my PS collection to get just the right progression of colors for the accents and looked to some of my Monokotes in order to see what I’d miss out on. Ultimately it seems as though the vehicle will look a tad too cold with only blue decals, so I’m going to brighten it with silver and champagne leading down to metallic blue and black. The bit of warmth from the champagne gold aluminum color will add just the right amount of warmth to contrast the cobalt base and darker blue hues: That peacock blue, irridescent film will be my “window tint” and should make a showy contrast inside of some darker window weather seals. More soon, and hopefully electronics show up this coming Monday in order for me to assess whether or not I’ll need to customize the belt tensioning system. —XOID
  10. You’re certainly welcome. I joined this forum after reading a few threads and seeing the etiquette and community skills. Stuff like your garage remind me of the museum-quality model train clubs that I’ve been fortunate enough to have seen in person since my childhood, and of other scale builders’ works such as those by George Miller who was also an amazingly talented scale, scratch fabricator from Hollywood model props to (flying) scale warplanes used in Hollywood shoots, to the aforementioned scale train work. It’s really inspiring stuff! You are the first car enthusiast I’ve seen get into car hobby diorama style scenery and it is just fantastic! Dunno about others’ focuses beyond driving, but I’m finding that as I pass through middle age that the build, and scale aspect of the hobby (across all mediums) is more and more interesting and it’s a joy to see folks sharing their work here. Tamiyaclub is great because people like you are posting their stuff and inspiring new generations though IMHO every modeler should read these pages for the depth of wisdom, and pure enjoyment of modeling that gets posted. —XOID P.S. When we were kids and looking for the most enjoyable and budget-friendly basher to own and drive, one of us in our little circle gave the Lunchbox a try. It was an immediate hit amongst our entire group and we’d share battery pack charges zipping that thing around his yard, the nearby golf course greenery (as tolerated by their members), etc. Thoroughly fun!.
  11. Beautiful job. Thank you posting your build, and I’m really looking forward to your first track report with that tuning. A+ on the undertray. Very clean, and yeah, these things leave too much gear prone to snagging without one.
  12. A modified, laydown wing tower and rear cage member w/bonus wheelie bar details: OK, continuing on with the slammed theme of the body and my efforts to keep this model as low CG and light as possible (within “runner” reason) I think that this modification is probably going to add more handling improvements than anything else aside from the elongated wheelbase and swaybars: The included JJ Ultima wing is absolutely huge and is intended to have plate fins affixed to either side making it absurdly heavy, and the wing area is simply not going to be needed for jumping a balanced 4WD, though I’d like to continue incorporating the ‘87’s looks. First things first were a) the decision to lower and lighten the wing, then b) protect the rear end and the wing a little bit. The change also needed to allow for differing wing angles without so much mass way far up high on the model’s included four-bolt wing plate. Holy moly, that’s a big wing! Flipping the included stays upside down droops their angle and projects the entire tower about an inches farther aft of the standard upright installation. Next, a combination of Tamiya 2mm shims, Xtraspeed gunmetal aluminum spacers (I think 8mm) and a center piece of 1cm threaded tubing from the long wheelbase kit created a neat lower crossmember. It could take a wheelie bar roller if you bypass the slipper and bash you car hard. Up top, I took the included 4-bolt wing mounting plate and sawed it in half, then screwed it into the assembly in the center ‘height’ position holes. I used flat heads so that they’d burrow in a bit. The center hole position allows the wing mounting plate to pivot for AoA adjustments while also being strong. It is not too strong like the factory wing mount, and turning turtle at speed should protect the lexan wing by allowing it to pivot under impact. I think that this is about where it’ll end up, then I’ll find some flat lexan in my collection to make lightweight versions of the fins to deepen the wing’s profile just a bit and follow the JJ Ultima cut patterns. The included wing fin plates are 1.5mm and very heavy, so I’ll be opting out for anything other than a pure basher. This guy is looking ready for some masking as soon as I get that wing trimmed and fitted: Thanks for reading, —XOID
  13. Thanks very much for the kind words. There may be an update this weekend as various parcel tracking services are sharing good news
  14. Funny, I just went back and reread this last page of comments ranging from tepid to enthusiastic and now it’s looking legit for a fall release, so what will the verdict be? Not bad at, all I’m guessing. The actual release is bit too far off for me to want to pre-order as I’m confident that they’ll be all over the main sites when the time(s) come. Regardless of where I do a see a hole in the wallet forecast for Tamiya and a chance of over engineering. Bring it on!
  15. Nice, and your line here about coming from the TC genre reminded me that there’s a nice promo vid on AE’s site about how the B7 was pretty heavily influenced by a new employee of theirs who came from the custom TC ecosystem. They talk about it a lot. Pardon the lack of link as I’m not sure if it was there or YouTube, though searching for the B7’s design evolution or similar should land you the reel that I’m thinking of. I believe that you’ll appreciate your car even more after watching it. looking forward to the rest of your build —XOID
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