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Empty_Hand

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About Empty_Hand

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  1. Ran 2 packs through the Frog this morning, then continued the fun with the kids on NES. Little do they know that tech has evolved quite some in both hobbies
  2. Appreciate the suggestion. I ordered some basic Deans/T connectors and if they fit I’ll likely use them instead of XT60 as I do like the option of being able to remove the ESC with cutting the wires again. Just seems more sensible.
  3. I enjoy building these more than anything and occasionally run them with my kids. I’d be luck to drive this for 2-3 packs a month in all likelihood.
  4. Based on the above I’m leaning toward cutting the ESC battery wire (very long on the 1080 as it’s marketed to crawlers), running the naked wire through the battery window, and soldering a new male XT60 connector (10 pairs on the bench) to be left in place. This will mean I have to cut it again to remove, but I don’t plan to do that any time soon and even then could probably do it 3 more times with the length of this ESC’s battery wire Just a little bummed I need a workaround for something like this. Appreciating my TT02 at the moment with its unlimited access and space for RC guts.
  5. I’ve nearly assembled the parts for my XV-01 build and encountered a problem. Please share suggestions if you have experience in this area. I plan to run a 5000Mah NiMH battery that currently has Tamiya connector, Super Stock BZ and Hobbywing 1080 G2 ESC, which came with a XT60 connector. The problem is that the XT60 connector won’t fit through the battery compartment hole in the chassis. I’d like to stick with NiMH, brushed motor and 1080 ESC for now as I really like this setup on my TT-02BR and am not yet ready to dive into LiPO. I also have a soldering kit on the way as I must to extend the motor wires (beginner here, go easy!). What are your recommendations? - Deans might fit the compartment window? - Cut XT60 and reconnect inside battery compartment (I have spare connectors)? - Try Tamiya connector that will fit through battery compartment window (bad I hear for SS motor)? -I prefer to not modify chassis but maybe opening the window some? -Other? Thanks a bunch! This is frustrating
  6. Agreed on both accounts. I’ll now add that ease of maintenance is a third plus after doing the bearings. $23 on PJ for the patient
  7. Just completed this job on 2 Super Stock BZ motors. Easy-peasy with this wonderful tutorial! Thanks a million @_Ben_ Pro tip. I used a 5/32” roll pin punch I had to knock out the bushings. Fit perfectly and made it an ever so slightly easier process. I also lightly lubed the bearings with Ballistol to aid their placement
  8. Spent the weekend making the XV01 Subie body. Saved the ENDLESS decals for last because it literally felt that way! If you like stickers, this may be the kit for you! Went smoothly enough (my 5th build now) but wish I had backed the metallic blue in black rather than silver to more closely match the darker blue of the trim decals. But the sponsor decals make the body so busy looking it was far less noticeable in the end. Just waiting for the hop-ups to arrive and I’ll dive into the build.
  9. XV-01 arrived from PJ today. This will be fully hopped-up, including TRF dampers and ‘07 Subaru Impreza WRX STI WRC body and wheels.
  10. Helicopter . Completely impractical as an eraser as skids and blades are hard plastic, which somehow makes it more charming.
  11. Finished the TT-02BR today! Well, a blue part or two still on the way but close enough. Wiring is a bit of a mess and I’d like tidying them up to be my next RC adventure.
  12. TT-02BR bodies coming along. This is my first modern car and 4th since coming back to the hobby after a decades-long break. Enjoy feeling my skills build up from the Grasshopper to Hornet to Frog and now this. Yes, MANY mistakes along the way due to over torquing, not reading instructions closely enough and life distractions. The TT-02BR build was on pause as I waited for a replacement diff gasket (accidentally folded and it tore) and stripped hex head 2x8mm screws from the diff cover that wouldn’t budge. Oh well, lesson learned! The rear body (black, white and silver stripe) was my first attempt at a pinstripe. came out great and the Frog gave me practice cutting in a line. The second was my first attempt at a fade, using the pink, black, white and from the Frog and Hornet and only adding fluorescent yellow. I also tried Smoke for the windows and they look great - no runs to my relief. Both Came out nice I think, not perfect but no major blems. I underestimated the time and patience it takes to make masks and manage surface cleanliness by a country mile! Now i’m thinking i need a solid white “burner” body for running in the dirt. Too much heart went into these. Another’s lesson: Finishing bodies first is like getting your chores out of the way - a bit relieved to be able to throw these on right after the final bolt is tightened on the build. Thanks for all the awesome posts here; I’ve learned so much in the past month from your wonderful talents and inspiring posts.
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