
Chris.B
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254 ExcellentAbout Chris.B
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I like the idea of challenging modern chassis with kind of old or simple cars. In my last formula 1 race on carpet 2 weeks ago, I decided to use my incredibly simple Fenix F1-70 chassis instead of my Xray X1'24. Qualified 3rd for the finals. In the 2nd round of the finals I broke the front suspension of the Fenix and had to switch back to the Xray for the 3rd round. The average time with the Xray was only 2 tenth faster. These old designs should not be underestimated .
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Now the Buggy Champ tryes. The rims are the aluminium ones from Xtra Speed. The body got a layer of primer in the meantime. So I hope, the Sand Scorcher gets some shape in the near future.
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Thanks! Like the Pickup. Tyres seem to be the ones from the Buggy Champ. I have them too.
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The ball diff adds some more metal to the chassis. Looks rock solid. As expected, much more steering with the ball diff.
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Which body do you use? And did you also change the shocks?
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This is an attempt to solve the problem of the leaking dampers by adding style. Luckily, the RC4WD Bilstein SZ Series shocks come in suitable lengths for the sand scorcher. Use the 70mm version for the front and the 60mm version for the rear. Those are quite versatile. They come with internal springs, so you can use them as a replacement for the original springs and torsion bars or you can remove the internal springs and use them as simple dampers. What you should not do is keeping both. Then the spring-rates get too high. That's how they look mounted to the sand scorcher. Front: And rear: I did not yet apply the Bilstein stickers because I wanted to play with different oils. Not sure how the stickers cope with that.
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Some additional parts arrived from Xtra Speed: Front and rear guards I also finally connected the servo to the steering rack. Perfectly aligned! On the rear: Now I could do a first test run with the chassis. Liked it! But since I neither live in a dessert nor on a beach (sadly 😄) I will install the optional ball diff. The solid axle results in very few steering on solid ground. And I will change the wheels for those of the Buggy Champ.
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Like that! Some of the Killerbody shells are really great. I have the Denso Kobelco which is amazing. Problem is: It is so nice that I don't want to use it except on the shelf.
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One more vote for the second
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Up to here I really enjoyed the build but now, it became a bit annoying. First of all I tried to finish the wheels and it took me literally hours to get the mid part of the rear rims into the tires. I searched the web for tricks but found nothing but other annoyed people or explanations like "if it does not work, you make something wrong". Maybe I did something wrong, but I do not really know what. The rubber is simply not soft and/or wide enough to slide over the rim as I would have expected. I ended up removing a bit of the non essential inner parts of the tires to make it work. That does not have any effect on the functionality but I can not imagine, how this should have worked without doing so. The second thing was this junky mechanism box. Although I like the idea of a dust cover, I decided not to use it. Why? Mainly because of these reasons: - The sleeve for the steering rod has quite a lot of resistance when steering to the left - I don't understand why a servo has to be glued to a chassis instead of using servo posts and screws - It is huge One hint for all of you planning to use it: A standard shorty perfectly fits. So what to do now? I found out that Tamiya themselves used a different approach on their Fighting Buggy. Although they used almost the same parts for the front and rear suspension (besides the rear torsion bars), they did use the same mechanism box. Instead, they decided to use a double deck chassis architecture. That's what I also opted for. I designed a custom chassis allowing the use of the torsion bars at the rear with almost the same center of gravity as before. Without the torsion bars, it would have been possible to locate the Lipo on the lower deck for an even lower COG. But than it would have become necessary to switch to coil-over shocks. And this is the result: The Shorty Lipo is located on the upper deck: The final assembled Sand Scorcher chassis then looks like this:
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Thanks! But did you fill them almost completely as depicted in the manual?
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Now it's time for the dampers. To be honest, I can not believe that there is even a chance that they will not leak when filled as described in the instructions. They don't have any volume compensation. Next is the front, no surprises there. Now the chassis plate. Because some people had bad experiences with the durability of the FRP chassis, I will upgrade it to Carbon. That's why you see a 3D printed prototype part here.
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Now its time for the roll-over bar and the rear cage. No surprises when assembling the two parts. But then I had a small issue mounting the plastic part to the gear box. On the right side, the black plastic is slightly to long to match the hole for the screw with the bore in the gear box. While on the left side I could mount it without any problem, I had to cut a thin piece at the end to be able to screw it in. I think I will change the black part to the rear guard from Xtra Speed in future. But for now, that's how it looks all together:
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Next steps: Universal joints, axles, torsion springs, motor and and gears and their covers. No issues there. The motor is a perfect fit. I wonder, if other motors will also fit for a possible upgrade to a brushless system. Only a slightly bigger diameter and that won't work. I will check that in future. Two different pinion/spur gear sets are supplied with the kit. I chose the 20/65 version which gives a final gear ration of 6.5 according to Tamiya. The other set would result in a final ratio of 9.3. The pinion has to be moved very close to the motor to fully use the width of the spur gear. But be careful not to be to close so that the pinion does not touch the motor/gear case.