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Chris.B

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About Chris.B

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  1. Yes, it's a step up but probably not necessary to mill some carbon and FRP. I don't know these Saintsmart machines. If there are good reviews from some customers, it's maybe a good start into CNC. Not too expensive. But of course, you get what you pay for.
  2. What I forgot to mention: you need at least one homing switch for each axis. And a tool length sensor is more or less mandatory if you mill under water. You simply won't calibrate your tools in fluid.
  3. Cutting under water is somehow mandatory as you say. I use one of these with my CNC machine: https://shop.stepcraft-systems.com/fraeswanne-420 You should consider that this further limits your working area when choosing a machine. And you also need enough z-travel to be able to get out of it with a mounted tool. Another important topic: the controller and all the electrics. There are all-in-one solutions too but I built my own electrical cabinet housing power supplies, drivers and the inverter for the spindle which is quite a lot of work and should not be underestimated. Choose a controller with an available post processor in Fusions CAM. I use a masso G3 Touch on my Sorotec Compact Line 0605. This is my machine after the last carbon job. You still can see the remains of the bound dust which can simply be washed away when you empty it. Absolutely safe:
  4. The final peace of the puzzle and some impressions of the finished Group C including last missing decals. The finished fan mount: Front and rear: The battery tray: Body on: I think that's it, project closed (for now ).
  5. What is still missing? The cooling fan. I should have taken that into account from the beginning... However, I updated the inner side damper mount to allow the installation of a 30mm cooling fan. Still a 3D printed prototype but will be carbonized soon.
  6. I think the formula 1 class may celebrate a comeback. ETS entries are rising and at least some clubs also add F1 classes to their events. The return of foam tires on F1 chassis also made them much easier to drive. Concerning the speed: Even with the most common 21.5T motors - in the hands of a skilled driver - they are faster than some TW classes. And when it comes to ultimate speed. Nothing is faster than a Pro10/LeMans pan car. Everyone ever drove one, will stick to it.
  7. After milling the carbon parts, I started to rebuild the chassis. First I had to update the damper using a longer shock shaft. I used the TA-19804293 which is 49.6 mm long. Approximately 20mm longer than the original one. In this step I encountered a small problem: the shock pistons of a TRF501X seems to be slightly thicker than those of the F103GT TRF damper. Using a shim below the piston solves these problem. Now the damper has the additional length to move the front mounting point forward. I used one of the 54960 damper extenders for the TC-01 to complete the damper. Next I installed everything on the chassis. Installing the shorty is now as simple as unscrewing the damper:
  8. Now finalized in carbon. Its a pity, that I do not have old yellowed carbon somewhere. The difference between the old and the new parts is quite obvious. Will I have to mill new chassis plates too? Opened: From above:
  9. Best friends in an attempt to remove worn out screws: So this is how the prototype for the shorty battery mount looks like on the chassis: Only one screw to remove for swapping the battery:
  10. That's exactly the case.
  11. The prototype for the battery holder is ready. But some troubles with screws annoyingly prevented a proper dimension check in the chassis. Obviously too much thread lock and completely destroyed screws from the previous owner...
  12. @svenb: that would be great!
  13. @wtcc5: Thank you for the link! It seems as if the aluminium standoffs are from the 53261 hopup battery plate set but the carbon part looks like the original one. However, I did not find an image of the usage of this hopup. No idea how a battery should be mounted with that set. I will have to do some custom design in Fusion.
  14. Too many ongoing projects in parallel, so this one will be a long-term activity. I found a TA03R-TRF chassis on ebay in quite good condition (at least before I had a look into the internals :)). The plan is to completely rebuild it and to put a Nissan R390 GT1 body on it. The original battery holder is missing on the chassis. Finding a solution for this will be one of the first activities. Does anyone know, what parts are used here? Seems to be a custom solution. Here are some photos of it: First step done, the tires :).
  15. I also tried to do so. Just because of the looks. But I could not find a satisfying solution. So I decided to sacrifice the rear tube frames. I really like your approach. Preserves the original design very well while improving the usability a lot. Great idea!
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