Jump to content

Digitaldave

Members
  • Content Count

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

24 Excellent

About Digitaldave

  • Rank
    Newbie

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. When I bought my TT02, I was advised to get some Yeah Racing shocks to replace the default friction ones. I've finally got round to putting them together, but I have a couple of questions that I hope you can help with. 1) Do I use the same strength springs all round? I was going to go middle of the road and use the (yellow) medium strength ones. 2) The screws that came with the original kit don't look like they will work correctly with the new shocks - the non-threaded part is much longer than the width of the eyelet things on the ends of the shocks. I assume I should use the replacement things that came with the kit instead? They look like they have a ball on one end and a screw on the other - I assume the screw goes in to the same hole the original ones were in and the ball goes in to the holes in the shock ends? As for pistons, I went with the three hole ones, that seemed like a reasonable middle ground to start with. If it makes any difference to the answers, I'm racing on carpet. Thanks.
  2. Yesterday, I picked up a Team Associated Reflex 14B Gamma Ongaro Edition, so I thought I'd provide some thoughts and feedback. My plan had been to buy an Arrma Typhon Grom (so I could give my Granite Grom to my son so we could go and drive together), but they sold out as soon as they arrived in the UK. Fortunately, my local RC store had me covered, and had one of these in stock, so I got that instead. I've only had it out for one pack, but here's my thoughts so far. 1) It costs more than the Typhon Grom, but it's brushless out of the box (although only 2S). There's a few spare parts included, such as shock caps and tie rod ends, as well as a different spur gear. I'm not sure how many teeth are on each version that's included, but the spare one is larger as they give you a different chassis plug to accommodate the other gear. 2) They want you to use their own (1500mah) batteries and specify a size of 100x30x20mm. There aren't many that fit that apparently. However, my local RC store has a 2200mah Overlander 2S that just about fits - you have to bend one of the leads a bit to get it in. 3) Speaking of batteries, the battery area has two adjustable 'plates' that can be put in a narrower position instead of the default wider set up. It's a shame the outer position wasn't just a fraction wider, because then the battery I got would fit in without any issues. I guess I could slightly elongate the screw holes (as well as the ones for the small pins on each end of the plates, but I suspect that might mean the battery could come lose more easily. The other alternative would be to remove part of one of the end plates to get the battery to fit without having to adjust the leads. 4) The motor mount doesn't appear to be fixed directly to anything with screws. It seems to be held in place by the top gear cover. I had an issue where it came lose while driving so had to re-seat it when I got back home. 5) It looks like there's a lot of adjustability. There's adjustable tie rods on the steering and rear, the shocks can be adjusted, and it looks like there's several mounting positions for the shocks on the shock towers. 6) The receiver is held in place with double sided tape, so I might replace it in the future with a Futaba one to use with my Futaba transmitter. 7) The rear body clip is positioned so that it's in line front to back, whereas the front one is a right angles. This makes the rear one a bit more tricky to get in and out if you have larger hands like I do. I could turn the mounting post through 90 degrees, but part of it looks like it's there to support the body to the front. Rotating would mean it's on one side. 8) It's quite fast, but I don't have a GPS to actually measure it. But to me with my limited experience, it's pretty good. It may sound like I'm just complaining about loads of faults, but they are small problems I thought I would highlight. Overall I'm really glad I bought it. There's a few things I think could be improved, but I'm glad I got this.
  3. Just picked these up from my local store. The Euro Truck is so I can race in an extra class at my local club. The buggy is just for fun - I had intended to get a Typhon Grom, but they have only just arrived in the UK and sold out like hot cakes. However, I spotted this instead. It’s about the same size as the Typhon Grom, but it costs more. But it does have a lot of adjustability, I’d brushless out of the box (I think it’s only 2S though) and used T connector for the battery, not the really small one that the Typhon uses.
  4. Can I ask what bodies those are? I’m looking for a GT-R with that style of wing instead of the normal production version.
  5. Well, the ‘postman’ (Evri couriers…) was supposed to be bringing me a Dumborc DDF-350. Unfortunately, it seems they’ve manage to ‘misplace’ it somehow.. So I went and took advantage of the Futaba sale going on at Slough RC and picked up a 4PM Plus instead.
  6. Tanks for the heads up on this. I’ve had my eye on a 4PM for a while, so picked a Plus version up with a receiver. I didn’t realise that the Plus uses 4x AA batteries, I’d assumed it was 3 like the regular version. EDIT: I should add that running 4x AA isn’t a problem, just an observation.
  7. Thanks, I guess I’ll just go with a stock TT01 and maybe an extra body. I currently use these lipos in my TT02: https://www.gensace.de/gens-ace-g-tech-4000mah-2s1p-7-4v-60c-hardcase-8-car-lipo-battery-pack-with-t-plug.html They are slightly rounded at the edges and are listed as suitable for Tamiya M chassis,. Does anyone know if they will fit the TT01 as well without cutting the ribs on the chassis?
  8. The club I race at allows TT01, TT02, TA01 or M chassis, as long as the body is a truck. With that in mind, is there any benefit to just getting a full TT01 truck kit vs a TT02 chassis with an aftermarket body? One thing I can think of straight away is that I already have a TT02 car, so common spare parts. Other than that, what’s the differences between the two chassis?
  9. @Mad Ax Good tip, thanks. I just checked the club site and all they say is that it must have a truck body, but I’ll double check other brands are ok. I’ll ask other racers at the track if they have any recommendations as well. @matisse I had a Quick Look at your build thread, it looks like there’s a lot going on there!
  10. @Re-Bugged that looks amazing, great job!
  11. Thanks for the replies everyone. I think I may look at the full kit plus spare body option - I’ve seen a truck have its cab ripped off!
×
×
  • Create New...