Digitaldave
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I finished off my TT01E Euro Truck build today. The chassis was already done, so it was 'just' a case of doing the body - but this is the first time I've had to actually paint a body. I think it came out OK especially as I wasn't after anything fancy. The paint job looks OK from a distance, but there's a couple of areas that could have been better. My thoughts on the process: 1) I couldn't get the supplied front window mask on to save my life, so I ended up using masking tape instead. That seemed to work well. 2) I did about 4 layers in total of the red and gold, and backed it with silver. I think I should have done thinner coats, but more of them. I used a complete can of the red. 3) There area couple of quite recessed areas, e.g. the bits that stick out from the back of the cab. These weren't easy to get with the spray. I think I just about got them covered though. 4) I like the decals on this - there aren't many, and they are pre-cut. Happy days. 5) I didn't do the best job of cutting the body, so there's a few rough edges. My totally-not-a-copy-of-a-Dremmel rotary too will be arriving soon so I can go round it and fix the dodgy bits. 6) I made the body post holes too far back, so needed to cut quite a lot of the fronts of the wheel arches off. Overall, I think it's worked out well. I will be cutting the body posts down to size once I've made sure everything else is OK and I don't need to adjust the body height.
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I put my TT-01E chassis together today. Still got the wheels and body to do, but so far it works OK...ish. There's a bit of a grinding sound from the drivetrain somewhere that I need to fix, probably just needs more grease. I have some 2S lipos that I bought with my TT-02, so using them for now. They have little bumps on the bottom, and I'd wondered what they were for - now I know, they fit in the slots in the TT-01E chassis. Who knew? Unfortunately, I think I may have to run them the other way up because using what I assume is the right way means the battery leads are potentially touching the steering mechanism. And the rear wall of the batttery compartment means I can't just put the leads at the back. Upside down it is then. I also had fun trying to get the new receiver I'd bought to bind to my Futaba 4PM Plus transmitter. I made sure the transmitter was in the right mode, and then spent ages pressing the bind button only to have the transmitter time out. Then I decided to check the orientation of the ESC and servo leads... Turns out the flashing from the receiver wasn't an attempt to bind - it was trying to tell me I'd connected it up wrong! Anyway, it's fixed now.
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Questions About Replacement Shocks for TT02
Digitaldave replied to Digitaldave's topic in Build Tips and Techniques
Thanks for that, I’ll get them installed. -
When I bought my TT02, I was advised to get some Yeah Racing shocks to replace the default friction ones. I've finally got round to putting them together, but I have a couple of questions that I hope you can help with. 1) Do I use the same strength springs all round? I was going to go middle of the road and use the (yellow) medium strength ones. 2) The screws that came with the original kit don't look like they will work correctly with the new shocks - the non-threaded part is much longer than the width of the eyelet things on the ends of the shocks. I assume I should use the replacement things that came with the kit instead? They look like they have a ball on one end and a screw on the other - I assume the screw goes in to the same hole the original ones were in and the ball goes in to the holes in the shock ends? As for pistons, I went with the three hole ones, that seemed like a reasonable middle ground to start with. If it makes any difference to the answers, I'm racing on carpet. Thanks.
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Yesterday, I picked up a Team Associated Reflex 14B Gamma Ongaro Edition, so I thought I'd provide some thoughts and feedback. My plan had been to buy an Arrma Typhon Grom (so I could give my Granite Grom to my son so we could go and drive together), but they sold out as soon as they arrived in the UK. Fortunately, my local RC store had me covered, and had one of these in stock, so I got that instead. I've only had it out for one pack, but here's my thoughts so far. 1) It costs more than the Typhon Grom, but it's brushless out of the box (although only 2S). There's a few spare parts included, such as shock caps and tie rod ends, as well as a different spur gear. I'm not sure how many teeth are on each version that's included, but the spare one is larger as they give you a different chassis plug to accommodate the other gear. 2) They want you to use their own (1500mah) batteries and specify a size of 100x30x20mm. There aren't many that fit that apparently. However, my local RC store has a 2200mah Overlander 2S that just about fits - you have to bend one of the leads a bit to get it in. 3) Speaking of batteries, the battery area has two adjustable 'plates' that can be put in a narrower position instead of the default wider set up. It's a shame the outer position wasn't just a fraction wider, because then the battery I got would fit in without any issues. I guess I could slightly elongate the screw holes (as well as the ones for the small pins on each end of the plates, but I suspect that might mean the battery could come lose more easily. The other alternative would be to remove part of one of the end plates to get the battery to fit without having to adjust the leads. 4) The motor mount doesn't appear to be fixed directly to anything with screws. It seems to be held in place by the top gear cover. I had an issue where it came lose while driving so had to re-seat it when I got back home. 5) It looks like there's a lot of adjustability. There's adjustable tie rods on the steering and rear, the shocks can be adjusted, and it looks like there's several mounting positions for the shocks on the shock towers. 6) The receiver is held in place with double sided tape, so I might replace it in the future with a Futaba one to use with my Futaba transmitter. 7) The rear body clip is positioned so that it's in line front to back, whereas the front one is a right angles. This makes the rear one a bit more tricky to get in and out if you have larger hands like I do. I could turn the mounting post through 90 degrees, but part of it looks like it's there to support the body to the front. Rotating would mean it's on one side. 8) It's quite fast, but I don't have a GPS to actually measure it. But to me with my limited experience, it's pretty good. It may sound like I'm just complaining about loads of faults, but they are small problems I thought I would highlight. Overall I'm really glad I bought it. There's a few things I think could be improved, but I'm glad I got this.
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Just picked these up from my local store. The Euro Truck is so I can race in an extra class at my local club. The buggy is just for fun - I had intended to get a Typhon Grom, but they have only just arrived in the UK and sold out like hot cakes. However, I spotted this instead. It’s about the same size as the Typhon Grom, but it costs more. But it does have a lot of adjustability, I’d brushless out of the box (I think it’s only 2S though) and used T connector for the battery, not the really small one that the Typhon uses.
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Thanks!
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Can I ask what bodies those are? I’m looking for a GT-R with that style of wing instead of the normal production version.
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Well, the ‘postman’ (Evri couriers…) was supposed to be bringing me a Dumborc DDF-350. Unfortunately, it seems they’ve manage to ‘misplace’ it somehow.. So I went and took advantage of the Futaba sale going on at Slough RC and picked up a 4PM Plus instead.
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Digitaldave started following Futabas on heavy discount - great deals to be had!
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Futabas on heavy discount - great deals to be had!
Digitaldave replied to Twinfan's topic in All things electric...
Tanks for the heads up on this. I’ve had my eye on a 4PM for a while, so picked a Plus version up with a receiver. I didn’t realise that the Plus uses 4x AA batteries, I’d assumed it was 3 like the regular version. EDIT: I should add that running 4x AA isn’t a problem, just an observation. -
Excellent, thanks for that.
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Thanks, I guess I’ll just go with a stock TT01 and maybe an extra body. I currently use these lipos in my TT02: https://www.gensace.de/gens-ace-g-tech-4000mah-2s1p-7-4v-60c-hardcase-8-car-lipo-battery-pack-with-t-plug.html They are slightly rounded at the edges and are listed as suitable for Tamiya M chassis,. Does anyone know if they will fit the TT01 as well without cutting the ribs on the chassis?
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Yes, that’s the one.
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The club I race at allows TT01, TT02, TA01 or M chassis, as long as the body is a truck. With that in mind, is there any benefit to just getting a full TT01 truck kit vs a TT02 chassis with an aftermarket body? One thing I can think of straight away is that I already have a TT02 car, so common spare parts. Other than that, what’s the differences between the two chassis?
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@Mad Ax Good tip, thanks. I just checked the club site and all they say is that it must have a truck body, but I’ll double check other brands are ok. I’ll ask other racers at the track if they have any recommendations as well. @matisse I had a Quick Look at your build thread, it looks like there’s a lot going on there!